The Stant # for a standard 7LB CAP is 10228 OR 11228 Depending on how it's packaged. They must have brought you out a 7lb cap for a deep neck if it was longer than a standard cap.
Boneheads!
Important Info About Champion Radiator Caps
- Thread starter '94IDITurbo7.3
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Boneheads!
TWeatherford
Full Access Member
Boneheads doesn't begin to describe it. You should have seen them monkey around trying to test my alternator.
For anyone else looking for the same info, the NAPA part number for the stant cap mentioned above is 703-1696, and the 13 lb cap is 703-1697.
For anyone else looking for the same info, the NAPA part number for the stant cap mentioned above is 703-1696, and the 13 lb cap is 703-1697.
Kevin 007
Full-floater
So for folks with a properly functioning cooling system. Would it be worth while to switch to a 7lbs cap to put less stress on the cooling system?
As someone with a properly functioning cooling system, IMHO yes.
Popspuller6.9
Registered User
RLDSL, i would like to know more and how you set up a zero pressure system, I see you tow with your rig and you have no overheating issues? I know when I am pulling a big hill WOT in 4th the engine temp will climb to 220 and stays there that is when I drop a gear to 3rd over and it will cool down some.
TWeatherford
Full Access Member
In case he doesn't see this, he's running Evans waterless coolant. I think it has a boil point of 350 F or so, without any pressure. Pretty nice stuff.
As mentioned, I'm running Evans waterless coolant . You run it straight with no water and no SCAs needed and it doesnt require frequent changes as there is no water in there . The stuff will cause you to run a tad warmer, but with a 375 deg f non pressurized boiling point, it's almost laughable.. With no boiling you get no localized hot spots, = no warping or cracking or gasket blowing, in otherwords, if it gets hot, it gets hot, and you let it cool back down, but none of the usual associated bank account drainage and long shop time
THis stuff has saved a few of my engines ( and a few family vacations ) Stant used to make good zero pressure caps but the only ones they have now look like they were made for chinese tractors, so you have to take a fixed pressure cap and snip the suction seal stem off to make a zero pressure cap now although it is a bit more restrictive than I like, I think I'm going to make a fitting into my upper hose attachment that goes to a surge tank to make up for that
for folks with a properly good functioning cooling system,just stick with a 13lb cap.we know it works issue free.
if you drop down to the 7lb's the sca's will not function properly (according to the cavitation article here) and you'll lower your boiling point of the coolant,which isn't any good either.
don't mess with something when it works flawlessly i say.
Another factor that can't be overlooked is a cooling system that can hold the correct amount of pressure. Ford's IDI engines need to hold 13 PSI of pressure in the cooling system. If this isn't so, the cavitation will have a slightly greater effect. The pressure in the system keep the vapor pressure point of the coolant high so fewer vacuum bubbles will be able to form and then implode against the cylinder wall.
http://www.oilburners.net/articles/cavitationartic.html
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Kevin 007
Full-floater
Interesting. I will be buying a 7lbs cap to keep in the glow box in case I develop a small leak on the road. The 7lbs cap may slow it down until proper fixing is practical
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