IDI Rebuild

[stumiister]

Well I got the machine work done for my block, now its time to get it from the machine shop and put it back together, hopefully I will get a million miles before I have to do this again. Any tips or suggestions would be great thanks.

 

[icanfixall]

What are your long term plans for this rig. I see you have a C6 and 4.10 gears plus you tow a 5th wheel. Is a turbo in the future. If so maybe an ARP head stud kit is a good idea. These 6.9 head bolts are marginal at the best.

 

[88 Ford]

X2. What Icanfixall said. Also what other mods are you going to do? Any fuel enhancements?

 

[92F350CC]

Those one million miles are going to go by a lot nicer if you replace that C6 with either a ZF5 or a built E4OD.

 

[typ4]

if your gasket set has black oil cooler orings , dont use them. they need to be green and blue.

 

[stumiister]

I have a 35ft 5th wheel that I pull from time to time thats why I bought this truck, I sure would love to put a turbo on it but money is tight right now. As for converting the tranny to an E4OD that would be great too but I also need to find info for the stand alone controller and would I have to regear the rear diff to handle the overdrive? As for fuel mods that also will come in time. right now Im just building this for a daily driver and tow vehicle but more a daily driver than a tow vehicle.

 

[92F350CC]

You wouldn't have to re-gear differential, you could get 4.10's with the E4OD or ZF-5 as well. I would also recommend keeping the 4.10's because you tow a 5er.

 

[stumiister]

I take it the ZF-5 is a 5 speed? what would it take to convert from a C6 to a ZF-5?

 

[FordCoalRoller]

I do believe you would need the typical parts ie flywheel and clutch pack. Most vehicles are stamped the same so it should at the least have the areas ready to be cut out for all the clutch equipment required. I dont know if all set ups have them but my ZF5 has a hydraulic clutch which would be much easier to set up that a linkage type.

 

[stumiister]

Well finally got the block back and all the parts to put the engine back together, I got Fel-Pro gaskets, Clevite Rod and Main Bearings and Hastings Rings, the block heater was removed and a freeze plug was installed, also new cam bearings and piston oilers. Now lets see how long it will take to get this together and running in my truck.

 

[icanfixall]

What type od piston oilers do you have.. The press ins or the bolt ons. The press ins require a special fixture to install them and aim them properly. The bolt ins are simple to bolt in but make sure you have the original bolts or new bolts. These are special hardened material and they require some thread lock on them.. Blue loctite is fine to use. No gaskets are used to install these. The oil pump does not have a gasket between the block and pump. Only between the pickup tube and the pump is a gasket. Look closely at the rear seal area on the crank. If there is a worn groove its best to install a seal with a speedi sleeve. Same with the front seal. Not installing a sleeve will ruin the new seal. Then you have lots of work fixing it again. The rear requires you drop the trans. Remove the flywheel or flexplate. Thats some extra work nobody wants to do.

 

[damac]

We got some 4.11 axles based on opportunity, cost vs. repairs and the situation we were in with the truck with 3.55 gears.

I can't say I noticed any improvement pulling and the mileage went down.

And frankly I cannot stand driving in the truck that long with it being tapped out close to 70mph and with the cowl intake.

Oh well for us its basically a toy hauler so I can deal with it. But the way this truck slows down on the hills I now know that I want a crewcab 4x4 with turbo and a 5 speed manual

 

[stumiister]

icanfixall, they are the pressed in ones. I had the machince shop put them in since they have the tools to do the job. As for the other items you have talked about I know what your talking about I work on the big diesel engines like the Detroit Series 60 and the Cummins ISX.