LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
1) If you're getting a F-Superduty pedal from a salvage yard truck, inspect the weld holding the booster pushrod pin to the pedal arm. The fact that it's a factory weld doesn't automatically make it a good weld unfortunately. In a panic stop if you put down 200lbs force at the pad you step on that can translate to over 1000lbs at the pin, and the weld will have to handle it. Would you trust a factory weld if it's full of cavities left by escaping gas bubbles? Does the fact that it obviously hasn't failed till now also mean it will not fail in the future? That is a judgement call YOU have to make.
2) The easiest way to hook up a Saginaw pump to Ford hydroboost is to modify a F-Superduty pressure line. But first you need the pump fitting off a '79 or older Saginaw pump, both Ford and GM should be the same - if it uses a double-flare connection to the pressure line you want it. Then on the F-Superduty line measure the length of the straight section of 3/8" steel tubing between the 90-degree block off its pump end and the hose crimp area. Compare that to the minimum length of steel tubing you need for a good double flare - stack a proper 3/8" line nut, the flaring tool, and its die, and measure them all together. Keep in mind that both a cutoff wheel and a hacksaw will eat away a bit of the straight tubing length, it's the nature of the beast (if needed you can compensate for that by grinding down the back of the line nut). A factory Ford F-Superduty line will most likely have a section of straight tubing that is way too short for all this to work, but the aftermarket ones are usually longer in that area and may just fit. If numbers check out good, proceed to cutting off the 90-degree block off the line, then slide the nut on the now-straight tubing and make your double flare. Replace your Saginaw fitting with the '79-down one, then thread your newly modified F-Superduty line into it. Keep in mind that flared connections tend to grab the line and twist it a little while tightening, so you may wanna consider pre-twisting it the other way first so when all is done the hose sits straight (and is not snaked into an attempt for a figure-8 instead). It may also be a good idea to slide a heat-reflecting sleeve over the rubber section before threading connecting to the pump, as the hose will now sit a bit closer to the exhaust manifold (Saginaw pressure port is straight out back, Ford C2 pump has it facing towards the fender thus keeping the hose further away from the hot engine), heck your aftermarket pressure line may even come with such sleeve installed already. And that's all there is to it. Just practice making some 3/8" flares first, they're not quite as easy as those on 3/16" brake lines and with the pressure line designed the way it is you have no margin for error.
2) The easiest way to hook up a Saginaw pump to Ford hydroboost is to modify a F-Superduty pressure line. But first you need the pump fitting off a '79 or older Saginaw pump, both Ford and GM should be the same - if it uses a double-flare connection to the pressure line you want it. Then on the F-Superduty line measure the length of the straight section of 3/8" steel tubing between the 90-degree block off its pump end and the hose crimp area. Compare that to the minimum length of steel tubing you need for a good double flare - stack a proper 3/8" line nut, the flaring tool, and its die, and measure them all together. Keep in mind that both a cutoff wheel and a hacksaw will eat away a bit of the straight tubing length, it's the nature of the beast (if needed you can compensate for that by grinding down the back of the line nut). A factory Ford F-Superduty line will most likely have a section of straight tubing that is way too short for all this to work, but the aftermarket ones are usually longer in that area and may just fit. If numbers check out good, proceed to cutting off the 90-degree block off the line, then slide the nut on the now-straight tubing and make your double flare. Replace your Saginaw fitting with the '79-down one, then thread your newly modified F-Superduty line into it. Keep in mind that flared connections tend to grab the line and twist it a little while tightening, so you may wanna consider pre-twisting it the other way first so when all is done the hose sits straight (and is not snaked into an attempt for a figure-8 instead). It may also be a good idea to slide a heat-reflecting sleeve over the rubber section before threading connecting to the pump, as the hose will now sit a bit closer to the exhaust manifold (Saginaw pressure port is straight out back, Ford C2 pump has it facing towards the fender thus keeping the hose further away from the hot engine), heck your aftermarket pressure line may even come with such sleeve installed already. And that's all there is to it. Just practice making some 3/8" flares first, they're not quite as easy as those on 3/16" brake lines and with the pressure line designed the way it is you have no margin for error.
