How I Stopped Excessive Oil Use!

[Hydro-idi]

I have no doubt that the Kreen does wonders. I've used plenty of fast flushes in the past, since I've been selling synthetics for about 34 years now and flushing before changing has been a mainstay of proper changover procedures from the start, but I quit using any kind of fast flush a long time ago and strictly use the Auto Rx now, because any and all fast flushes can knock large chunks loose and block an oil passage or scratch the heck out of a bearing ( after personally having had to tear an engine apart to repair the damage from a fast flush, this isn't just hearsay ) and I have yet to see any fast flush that will come close to doing what Auto Rx will do.

Agreed. I am currently running a treatment of Auto-Rx and am pleased so far. But I wonder if there are any similar products on the market that are less expensive.

 

[C.J.]

I've heard my buddies in the military talk about doing the diesel flush on their vehicles and I suppose if it's good nuff for the army and marines where they put their lives on the line. Me...I'm just tootlin around town.

Are there any dangers of doing this? Letting your engine idle too long with diesel in it? Not long enough? Is just draining it and refilling it with oil sufficient when done or is this a multiple oil/ filter change process?

 

[Hydro-idi]

I've heard my buddies in the military talk about doing the diesel flush on their vehicles and I suppose if it's good nuff for the army and marines where they put their lives on the line. Me...I'm just tootlin around town.

Are there any dangers of doing this? Letting your engine idle too long with diesel in it? Not long enough? Is just draining it and refilling it with oil sufficient when done or is this a multiple oil/ filter change process?

A simple answer to your question is yes. Diesel fuel in the crankcase may score up and damage the main bearings. There is simply not enough lube in diesel fuel to lubricate an engine internally. If you want to flush your engine, I would use Kreen from Kano labs or better yet IMO, just use Auto-Rx. Both need to be ordered online if purchasing one or the other. I have to admit my oil consumption has decreased drastically while doing my first treatment of Auto-Rx. I plan on doing a second treatment as well.

 

[WhiskeyBottle2]

AutoRx vs. Kreen

I have no doubt that the Kreen does wonders. I've used plenty of fast flushes in the past, since I've been selling synthetics for about 34 years now and flushing before changing has been a mainstay of proper changover procedures from the start, but I quit using any kind of fast flush a long time ago and strictly use the Auto Rx now, because any and all fast flushes can knock large chunks loose and block an oil passage or scratch the heck out of a bearing ( after personally having had to tear an engine apart to repair the damage from a fast flush, this isn't just hearsay ) and I have yet to see any fast flush that will come close to doing what Auto Rx will do.

I believe both products do a good job...I would like to say that I researched both products before I settled on Kreen...Here's how I made up my mind as to which one to use...And I hope anyone out there thinking of flushing their engine go thru the same or similar process before they buy one or the other...

First...We know AutoRx is generally considered a "safer but slower" process...Second...We know Kreen is a "faster but possibly riskier" process...

Knowing how each works...I next took into consideration the mileage of my engine, its symptoms, and its overall condition...ie...does it need a new IP & injectors or soon will need? Is the coolant system in good shape? See where I am going...

Next...If I use Kreen and I lose the engine...Am I prepared to overhaul or buy used and drop it in and go on...How much work am I willing to do? Money? Etc..Etc...

My conclusion...I elected to go with Kreen because of high mileage and if the results are successful it would be fast and least costly and least work...If it failed I was prepared to buy a used engine...because I had a new radiator, water pump, thermostat, all new belts and hoses, recent oil cooler re-seal...all these could be put on "new" used engine...So, I was willing to risk it...

If I would have had a much lower mileage engine...I would have gone with AutoRx to try and wake her back up...So for me the mileage really was the deciding factor thinking I really didn't have that much to lose...As is turned out...everything went well and my hope is the engine will last long enough for me to continue to save money and buy parts for a complete overhaul later down the road...

Why stick with the 6.9 and completely overhaul in the future? Well I have one of the blocks that is considered one of the best blocks of all that were cast according to serial number etc...Plus the block is beefy all around, easy to work on, and just plain simple...even with a turbo...and at my age should last till I die...

Well those are my thoughts...just saying

 

[idiabuse]

So regular oil changes wont prevent this condition of high oil consumption and a necessary kleenout? Is this condition also known as "Bore Polishing"


Javier

 

[jhnlennon]

So regular oil changes wont prevent this condition of high oil consumption and a necessary kleenout? Is this condition also known as "Bore Polishing"


Javier

Bore polishing is mechanical wear in the cylinder walls and a clean out wont do anything to help it. Bore glazing is what your refering to, and a clean out may or may not work. Most of both these conditions are caused by improper loading of an engine, or not running at the right(high enough)operating temp, rather than lubrication itself.

 

[RLDSL]

You guys have to realize, they sell Kreen in 55 gal drums for a reason. The stuff is really meant for fleets that use it FROM NEW as a regular maintnence item to KEEP engines from ever getting a heavy sludge or varnish or soot buildup, much in the same way military mechanics will do regular crancase flushes BEFORE the things ever get a chance to get a heavy buildup in a manner to where dislodging heavy particles does not become an issue

ALL engines will eventually get some varnish buildup around the rings, regardless of the oil that you use. Synthetics will hold it off longer, high end synthetics will hold it off much longer due to the level of detergent they carry, but , sorry to say, even the best synthetic wont completely eliminate varnish formation, but you will have a hard time finding any soot or carbon or sludge. While Amsoil generally just leaves a fine haze, Mobil 1 in a diesel in around 60k miles can leave a hard glaze that requires big nasty tools to break off . even cheaper synthetics get worse Dino oil gets way worse from there. Occasional cleaning is a very good ideal to keep your rings moving like they are supposed to . Once you get a hard varnish buildup in the groove, the rings no longer flex back and forth freely as required to maintain a proper seal.

 

[bigtex]

What we do to flush the engines in my motor pool is to add a 50/50 mix of diesel and atf. We only run the engines for 45 seconds to a minute so as to not damage the cylinder walls or the main bearings. It has never failed to work. Just my 2 cents.

 

[idiabuse]

Bore polishing is mechanical wear in the cylinder walls and a clean out wont do anything to help it. Bore glazing is what your refering to, and a clean out may or may not work. Most of both these conditions are caused by improper loading of an engine, or not running at the right(high enough)operating temp, rather than lubrication itself.

In the Marine Field I have seen mechanics remedy a boat that smokes excessivly under WOT operation using BORAX soap sprinkled into the intake at idle. Temporary fix for a uneducated boat owner that operates the boat improperly.
'

Javier

 

[RLDSL]

In the Marine Field I have seen mechanics remedy a boat that smokes excessivly under WOT operation using BORAX soap sprinkled into the intake at idle. Temporary fix for a uneducated boat owner that operates the boat improperly.
'

Javier

Kind of reminds me of the quick break in procedure that a lot of racers used to use on engines that had to be track ready in a hurry. We'd dump a can of Bon Ami into the break in the oil l and run it on the stand for about 15-20 minutes, then dump the oil , pull the pan etc and toss all the bearings , they would be shot, but the rings would be seated up to full compression and track ready. Fast way to get an engine ready to go, We could line up a few for pit spares that way in no time, but it's an insane way to do it. You basically have to have an extra set of consumable guts just for the procedure. Whats funny though is that kind of thing gets to spreading around and all the sudden you get these rumors running around that pouring Bon Ami in your oil is a great way to improve your compression and all the sudden there were folks all over the place dumping the stuff in their engines and DRIVING on it This one still pops up on the internet every once in a while with some yahoo intent on **** it or claiming it worked with the lemmings falling in line behind

 

[idiabuse]

Kind of reminds me of the quick break in procedure that a lot of racers used to use on engines that had to be track ready in a hurry. We'd dump a can of Bon Ami into the break in the oil l and run it on the stand for about 15-20 minutes, then dump the oil , pull the pan etc and toss all the bearings , they would be shot, but the rings would be seated up to full compression and track ready. Fast way to get an engine ready to go, We could line up a few for pit spares that way in no time, but it's an insane way to do it. You basically have to have an extra set of consumable guts just for the procedure. Whats funny though is that kind of thing gets to spreading around and all the sudden you get these rumors running around that pouring Bon Ami in your oil is a great way to improve your compression and all the sudden there were folks all over the place dumping the stuff in their engines and DRIVING on it This one still pops up on the internet every once in a while with some yahoo intent on **** it or claiming it worked with the lemmings falling in line behind

Good thing we learn from experience! That whole fiasco could of been solved with a fine hone and some cast iron rings. Hey back then they knew the meaning of JOB SECURITY...


Javier

 

[red_wing_bikes]

I think about this post a lot. It's the only time I've ever read someone try this. I am necro-ing this thread in hopes someone can tell me if they've tried it. I think this discussion should be revived lol

 

[Cant Write]

I have not, but found the posts about the CDR being of poor design cause of its location relative to cylinders 7/8.

With my low mileage engine, maybe a catch can is a good idea......

Will be watching.