how does this even happen?

Thewespaul

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Other guys have used the girdle from R&D I'm sure. So why are you the first guy to have issues? I have a hard time believing the others installed them much differently than you.

Thanks for tearing it apart. Amazing that a water leak was what initially doomed this engine. WOW.

I believe Justin had one on his truck and he had the bottom end of his idi drop out of his truck while on the highway, granted he was making over 400 hp :dunno
 

FarmerFrank

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I have no fear frank, there machines. these things happen.

I could tell you a story about a little 389 that broke my heart way back when.
but California has issued a over drought alert.

these things happen, and it is what it is.


I understand the pain. I had a 351w out to 408. Ran like a scalded...when it ran. One fine afternoon it sheared the crank shaft between #1 rod and #1 main. SCAT didn't care so I scrapped it and built a big block. Wish I had all the money back I spent on the small block.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Clb

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I know its been printed somewhere......

There are allen sockets in the end of the studs.....
Last set I did had an instruction to seat all the way down then backnout 1\8 turn....

"Good use of thread locker here"

Then the allen is used as an index pointer when tourquing the fastener to verify it does not turn.
Now then you have to buy the special tools.
 

IDIoit

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well this eliminates operator error.
couldn't find the IDI part number, but im pretty sure the install is the same way.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Hydro-idi

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I am kinda thinking that maybe there was an uneven clamping force when you installed the girdle. Perhaps there might have been a high spot somewhere on the girdle or main cap mounting area? Idk
 

IDIoit

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I am kinda thinking that maybe there was an uneven clamping force when you installed the girdle. Perhaps there might have been a high spot somewhere on the girdle or main cap mounting area? Idk

if that was the case, why didn't the other one break that's about an inch away?
 

Clb

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oye'vey'
that seems a little light on details for a complete rookie, but not much different in today's world.
well heck....
Last thought, try a call to the arp techline yet?
 

IDIoit

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havnt called the tech line yet.
I tossed the blocks today to see if my mock up engine is any good.
put the cracked block on the mock up stand,
and a potential 030 over block on a stand.
gonna clean it up and check some things over.
may drop this rotating assembly in if things all add up.

I have a rebuild option on its way for the truck itself.
update when that transpires
 

Hydro-idi

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Is that .030 over block a 7.3? If so, I would take that off the list of being a potential candidate unless you drop sleeves in the holes. Boring them out is a good idea but not so much on a 7.3 with cavitation n all.
Just my .02.
 

IDIoit

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Is that .030 over block a 7.3? If so, I would take that off the list of being a potential candidate unless you drop sleeves in the holes. Boring them out is a good idea but not so much on a 7.3 with cavitation n all.
Just my .02.

the name of that game is to get another viable engine. if the block checks out, I will be putting it back together. a couple hundred bucks for bearings and gaskets, its worth the gamble.
ive got parts for days, and they need to be used up.
do the 7.3's really have an issue with cavitation?
maybe. even at 030 over? possible.
but I have seen more cracked cast iron than cavitation in my time on the forums.
granted its not real world experience, but this is what im going for.
if it cavitates, then im back to the same square in at now.
these are the things you do when you have too many trucks without engines lol
 

icanfixall

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Whats the worst that can HAPPEN using a 30 over block??? Maybe cavitate and bend a rod or sent it thru the block... In my years on this forum and others. I continue reading about members running 30 over and NEVER had issues. But karma has a lot to do with this too. My karma is all bad....
 

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