How common are burnt valves?

[typ4]

I have 3 wastegate cans that look exactly like that, all off factory turbos, must be the gp controller is too close?
lol
and I never wear a wedding ring for that and other reasons. Saw an excavator operator jump out and strip the meat off his finger 30 years ago and that was enough for me. ugh.

 

[idi_Marty]

Wow, I've snagged it a couple times, but after this encounter I am totally convinced, work and a wedding band just do not go together, I still haven't put it back on, it burnt my finger half way around it, and it was a split second arc, can only imagine the results of a couple seconds! Yikes... I've got my ip, and turbo off, going to order the injector bore cleaner off of eBay for good measure cause I'm looking at bb codes, I have thought about having Agnem do all of it so I could just consolidate all the price and shipping together, I hope that doesn't offend you, I know that everyone here and other diesel forums refer to the both of you as the idi gurus, would you have any idea what shipping the turbo with the slip collar exhaust (the cast one running to the y pipe) still attached would approximately run me? I'm in eastern ky. Thanks everyone, I truelly appreciate all the knowledge you have given me, I really do love this truck, and I want I restore it to good working order. Any and all idi specific maintenance info is highly appreciated, I know cavitation is a big risk in these hence the FleetGuard total flush within the first couple days of owning it.


1994 Crew Cab F-350, 7.3L idi Turbo Diesel, 4x4, auto, DRW, Tollesboro, Ky

 

[icanfixall]

Wow... It saddens me to see you removed the injection pump like you did. Thats a mess now but we can guide you thru the proper way of finding the correct way to reassemble it. I have some pics of what the injection pump gear and the cam gear look like when they are correctly timed. You will have to remove the pump from the cover. Then remove the three pump drive bolts onder the front of the injection pump gear cover. Those are the 5/16 hex bolts. They have a 25 lb torque requirement. Don't be fooled into thinking the torque is too high for such a small bolt. They are the same hardened bolt found in the rear u joint and napa sells them in a u joint repair kit cheap too.. Once the gear is seperated from everything draw a line from top to bottom with the drive pin in the 4 o clock position. Then make sure your at # 1 top dead center. Then the gear is dropped in and a square is placed on top of the water pump rear cover plate. Some call it the timing gear cover plate.. No matter. Just make sure the line on the gear is directly straight up and down with the swuare. You might be able to see the "Y" on the cam gear when its at the top. Might be able to feel it with a dental pic too. Just make sure the DOT is not up top. That dot must be at the crank gear to be at the correct timing marks. On the crank dampner you need to have the damnper at the short fat probe location for tdc marks. Clean it off and you will see the zero mark and the line going thru it. If this is not understandable please ask for help. Don't install the injection pump gear 180 degrees out of time. These engines will run that way but the run poorly and smoke like hell. Just ask the dog catcher bout his customers truck that got a new pump installed by a shop that knoew what they were doing... Yeah.. I call BS on that shop...

 

[idi_Marty]

Yeah, I am familiar with Tdc and timing, on sbc and sbf, I read the article using the plumbers putty and I think I might go that route, ill definitely not be installing 180 degrees, I appreciate the advice, I understand exactly what your telling me and I appreciate the in depth detail as to the get markings, I will be posting pictures up as I go, I'm just waiting on Mel to reply with a quote, I sold a commuter car tonight that will cover some of the costs. Maybe you could enlighten me, I want Mel to rebuild the pump and turbo, an I'd like a set of the bb injectors, when he rebuilds my pump is the price dependent on if I want a baby moose, moose junior, or full moose? I really just want a stock rebuild, I don't want to turn the truck up any, I just want it to run efficiently, so would that be a stock rebuild or baby moose? Or are they the same?
EDIT: I am sure that different levels of Moose pumps are more expensive, but what I meant was that he uses my core for the rebuild and what would the price be to just get it up to ***** for a stock pump? Granted I read that prices depend on how bad my core is, but I don't think I need anything performance oriented, I just want it to run "like" new, and idle smooth. My goal is to have a reliable fairly stock truck, that runs smooth, I want something for towing and family hauling. What do I need to do? What are the things you guys would recommend for me to work towards? Thank you

1994 Crew Cab F-350, 7.3L idi Turbo Diesel, 4x4, auto, DRW, Tollesboro, Ky

 

[dgr]

baby moose = stock pump. If you go to conestogadiesel.com you can see his prices.