Help needed, newly rebuilt engine, now have lots of blow by.

[BDCarrillo]

"Over this last weekend,drained the oil, pulled all the GP's and pumped in about 2 qts, divided out between all cylinders, of diesel fuel. Every morning and evening turning the engine by hand, forward and backwards.
Most of the fuel ended up in the drain pan after the fact, I measured it out from the drain pan."

This test you did (to me) screams poor sealing on the oil control ring, at the very least... if all of your ring gaps are in a line, toward the exhaust manifold, that would net a poor-seal situation that let the diesel creep by.

You've stated that the blowby has become WORSE since putting miles on the rebuild... continuing to flog her with heavy loads hoping for rings to seal does not seem like a good idea to me... can you confirm that it "has become worse during break-in of the rebuild" and let us know how you're observing/measuring it?

 

[typ4]

It could get worse if not loaded and the ring seal "glazes" .

 

[icanfixall]

This is exactly what I was posting about in my other post. Load it up and burn it off. Look at it like a big rig hitting to roads making a living. The driver MAY go easy at first but remember. The engine has to make a living so its loaded and rolling down the roads.

 

[junk]

Hope you get it figured out and it doesn't need torn down!!! Good Luck!

-Jeremy

 

[Brad S.]

This test you did (to me) screams poor sealing on the oil control ring, at the very least... if all of your ring gaps are in a line, toward the exhaust manifold, that would net a poor-seal situation that let the diesel creep by.

You've stated that the blowby has become WORSE since putting miles on the rebuild... continuing to flog her with heavy loads hoping for rings to seal does not seem like a good idea to me... can you confirm that it "has become worse during break-in of the rebuild" and let us know how you're observing/measuring it?

Nope made sure the ring gaps, top & middle, were turned away from each other, little dimples on the rings facing up.
3 piece oil rings did the same thing, made sure they were NOT lined up.

Machine shop had the pistons rings etc, for balancing and boring purposes.

We have many cement blocks at the farm, think that will be using those.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Assembly process sounds right... Was the ring end gap checked?

I just see it as odd for blowby to increase from nothing to severe during break in

 

[Brad S.]

No i did not check it, myself, and I'm sure I missed many other things along the way. (I realize that these items are very important, but my time machine is short on plutonium right now.)
Right now I looking at options of things I can do, short of pulling the engine, honing, reassembling, etc.

The first thing to do is more weight in the box, second thing drive "harder" or work the engine more.

Another question that comes to mind, is there a type oil I could use that would "clean" out these oil rings???
Type of oil I mean like a break in oil or something....???
Or should I be using a Seafoam, Auto RX, Marvel Mystery Oil, would this work???
Or heavy doses of fuel cleaner, Howes, Power Service, etc.
Or do all of the above.
Once again thanks everyone, just frustrated.

 

[riotwarrior]

Run it like you stole it...oh no more stuff down gp holes

 

[Brad S.]

Funny you should say that Al, I made a comment to someone about this problem, that I need to drive it like my 18yr old son might drive.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Zinc is used as a break-in additive, but I think it's main benefit is for flat tappet cams.

Where and how are you observing the blowby? Visual on the CDR venting to atmosphere?

If it were me... I'd compression test it to see if a cylinder is bad.

 

[IDIoit]

Zinc is used as a break-in additive, but I think it's main benefit is for flat tappet cams.

100% correct.
roller cams are not affected by todays conventional oils.
altho i do run top grade oils in my gassers. with zinc

 

[stealth13777]

No i did not check it, myself, and I'm sure I missed many other things along the way. (I realize that these items are very important, but my time machine is short on plutonium right now.)
Right now I looking at options of things I can do, short of pulling the engine, honing, reassembling, etc.

The first thing to do is more weight in the box, second thing drive "harder" or work the engine more.

Another question that comes to mind, is there a type oil I could use that would "clean" out these oil rings???
Type of oil I mean like a break in oil or something....???
Or should I be using a Seafoam, Auto RX, Marvel Mystery Oil, would this work???
Or heavy doses of fuel cleaner, Howes, Power Service, etc.
Or do all of the above.
Once again thanks everyone, just frustrated.

Rislone engine oil supplement with zinc was recommended to me by pwrsmoke on here. I personally don't think you need to clean anything; but good break-in oil won't hurt anything. Somewhere out there is a good ole boy engine builder who has seen something like this happen before. Short of that, just start like you said running it hard and see if it gets worse or better. I also recommend the compression test since you're willing to dig to find the issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[franklin2]

Here's the theory of running it hard; The combustion gases created when the cylinder fires gets in behind the rings and expands them out to the cylinder walls. Pressing them out to the cylinder walls can help them break in. But, there can be problems. You don't want to overheat the engine. Overheating can cause the glazing on the cylinder walls that some people mentioned.

Usually when you first get the truck out on the road right after the new engine is installed, you find a deserted highway and you nail then engine hard till you get to the speed limit and then let off. You do this about 10 times and the rings will be mostly seated after that. You are way beyond that mileage wise. There should be other signs of problems, like smoking, oil usage and down on power. If you don't have any of these others I am not sure I would worry about it.