DesertBen44
Full Access Member
This doesnt make any sense, the splines are lined up, and im beating these things senseless
Help getting wheel studs in hub/rotor assembly
- Thread starter DesertBen44
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DesertBen44
Full Access Member
Im bout ready to get a slurry goin and throw these studs in there with the beers
DesertBen44
Full Access Member
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053#BVRRWidgetID
About to buy this thing and solve this problem
About to buy this thing and solve this problem
Diesel_brad
Dunce
Is the hub on something solid or is it sitting on a pillow?
DesertBen44
Full Access Member
pretty damn solid just a piece of wood. Its dark out now so im done for today guess tomarrow ill freeze the studs, torch the assemblys, and hope for the best
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
as a guy at work would say, "hit it with your man purse, and leave you girl purse at home".
That will heat a little faster but not much difference on steel this thick. Btw, why do You use a punch, can't You hit it straight with the 2 pound hammer if it is off the truck?
Hope everything works out well, I would hate to leave any of My vehicles at a parking lot overnight, I would provably sleep inside it till next morning.
DesertBen44
Full Access Member
Yeah its my parking lot so I can monitor it and stuff, but crime is horrible around here once everyone is asleep. ugh
And I need the punch because you have to drive the studs in from the back of the rotor so they stick out of the hub, and the area of the rotor they are in is recessed, So I cant just hit it with a hammer.
I wonder if all 3/4 ton truck are like this or just Fords. At least the half ton chevys did away with this nonsense a long time ago.
There is definently no shortage of manpower going into this hammering too, thats for sure.
What a nightmare this job turned out to be
And I need the punch because you have to drive the studs in from the back of the rotor so they stick out of the hub, and the area of the rotor they are in is recessed, So I cant just hit it with a hammer.
I wonder if all 3/4 ton truck are like this or just Fords. At least the half ton chevys did away with this nonsense a long time ago.
There is definently no shortage of manpower going into this hammering too, thats for sure.
What a nightmare this job turned out to be
BFH, heat that hub n such in the oven 500 degrees freeze the studs, only take out a couple at a time and pound em in or go to diesel shop and get them pressed in...or the new rotor has the wrong hole diameter for the studs to pass...can u measure the old one to the new one?
DesertBen44
Full Access Member
to be honest havent measured hole diameter in new vs old rotor, should prolly do that tomarrow, put that caliper to use.
Going to try both those methods tomarrow, hoping I can get them in there
Going to try both those methods tomarrow, hoping I can get them in there
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
Ok, boys, here's the deal. Unless that hub has some real good support under it, you can beat the stud with a building and it isn't going in.
Try this: Get a stack of washers and put a bunch of oil or light grease on them. Turn the lug nut around backwards. Put the stud through the hub stud hole and oil the threads. Stack the washers up about 1/2 inch on the stud (on the wheel side) and thread the lug nut onto the stud. Now use a socket or end wrench to tighten the lug nut on the stud, pulling the stud onto the hub. Works every time, no beating necessary.
Or get a bigger hammer and wail away.
Try this: Get a stack of washers and put a bunch of oil or light grease on them. Turn the lug nut around backwards. Put the stud through the hub stud hole and oil the threads. Stack the washers up about 1/2 inch on the stud (on the wheel side) and thread the lug nut onto the stud. Now use a socket or end wrench to tighten the lug nut on the stud, pulling the stud onto the hub. Works every time, no beating necessary.
Or get a bigger hammer and wail away.
Instead of using a punch, which stings the hand. Use the small ballpeen hammer you were using to drive the stud, place that on the stud and hit it with the BFH, the wood handle don't sting as much.
Just replaced 12 studs, ballpeen hammer like said and 4 lb hammer to hit, 15 minutes all out, 20 minutes all 12 in.
Just replaced 12 studs, ballpeen hammer like said and 4 lb hammer to hit, 15 minutes all out, 20 minutes all 12 in.
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Diesel_brad
Dunce
Bill, that is a bad Idea hitting one hammer with another. that is just looking flying shrapnel to be imbedded in some part of the body
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