Help - changing water pump

[fields_mj]

A little late, but here goes. I'm going to change my water pump tomorrow. It's been leaking for most of the winter, but now I have the time and opportunity to do the work. What tools am I going to need? Specifically, what "Special" tools am I going to need. I remember doing this to my 94 F150 (I6) about a year and a half ago, and I had to go down to Advance Auto and rent a set of wrenches to get the clutch of the fan or something like that. I remember there were 2 or 3 wrenches in the kit that they gave me, and the rental was actually free, but I had to put a deposit down which was refunded when I brought everything back. Will these same wrenches work for the 7.3 IDI? I remember everything else being pretty straight forward. Is there anything else that I should be careful about?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[plywood]

Pretty sure it's a different size wrench for the fan but the same type.

One thing very important is many aftermarket pumps have a thinner flange for the top two bolts and so if the original bolts are used they will go deeper and hit the IP gear and destroy the IP.

This is one for reading the instructions for sure;p

 

[fields_mj]

Pretty sure it's a different size wrench for the fan but the same type.

One thing very important is many aftermarket pumps have a thinner flange for the top two bolts and so if the original bolts are used they will go deeper and hit the IP gear and destroy the IP.

This is one for reading the instructions for sure;p

Thanks a ton for the heads up on the bolts. I will check the flange thickness and act accordingly.

 

[icanfixall]

The top two bolts go thru into the oil bath area. You need to apply a thread sealant to them and the bottom two bolts. Otherwise the oil will leak past the threads.

 

[gatorman21218]

The fan clutch is 48mm or 1 7/8 and its a left handed thread (tighten to loosen if that makes sense) I just went ahead and bought one. http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-3473.aspx Im assuming you know to get ALL the old gasket off. Also I used a chain type oil filter wrench to hold the fan pulley in place. If you buy a w/p from ford it was around 90 bucks and it comes with the top 2 bolts so no need to worry about the IP. Thats about it have fun

 

[fields_mj]

Thanks for the replies! The flange on the new pump turned out to be about 10 to 20 thousanths thicker than the old one. It came with 2 new bolts, and they were the same length as the old ones so I just used all the old bolts. That's the good news.

Now for the bad news. Went down to my local Advance Auto and rented their fan clutch wrench set. Once I got down to the point where I needed them, I couldn't even budge the nut. The wrench set even has 1/2" square holes in the rear of the handle, so I inserted my 1/2" breaker bar, and 1/2" ratchet for a little more leverage. No luck. Took the wifes car down to Napa and spent almost $100 on a 1 7/8" combination wrench, and a chain style strap wrench. Got home and put my cheater bar on the strap wrench, and in less than 10 min I had it off. Wish I had done that to start with.

 

[gatorman21218]

Yeah its on there pretty good. I bought a pulley holder that has little studs that go in the holes and it aint worth a damn thats why i recomend that chain oil wrench. Also I would put some blue loctite on the fan clutch when you put her back together. I think its cheap insurence for the fan plowing through your radiator

 

[LCAM-01XA]

They use some sort of a thread locker on them fan clutches, that's why they are such a royal pain to remove sometimes. Heat application is not to be avoided in this situation, however just make sure you don't heat the thing too much (no glowing red) as you may fry the clutch itself.

 

[fields_mj]

The threads on mine didn't look like they had anything on them. They were pretty clean. It was just really tight. I didn't need to use any heat either. I tend to avoid using heat any where near aluminum. I just needed a real wrench instead of a piece of stamped sheet metal, and something that would actually grip the pully instead of that monstrosity that's supposed to go across the four nuts. Had the strap wrench had a longer handle, I wouldn't have needed a cheater bar on it. That 8" handle wasn't going to cut it when I had a 24"+ long wrench on the nut. I was just glad that I didn't have to grind the head down on the wrench so that it would fit in there. It was a snug fit, but it worked out great.

 

[Agnem]

I would not use any kind of thead locker. If your using the "correct" tool to get the clutch on and off you don't need it.

 

[rckslash2010]

Channel locks worked good for me, but then again, that nut wasn't on there very tight. It is now though.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Make sure You get the fan clutch nut torqued properly.

If it's to loose, it can come off when You turn the engine off. Does a pretty good job of ruining a Radiator +.

 

[LA350]

I'm glad you had an easier time than I did. I bought the tool lit too, but I couldn't get the fan off to save my life. I ended up removing the pump and fan assy and took it to a deisel shop who removed it for free. I watched 2 mechanics struggle w/ airtools for 10 minutes to get it off, who then laughed and said it was the toughest one they ever encountered. Plus it would have been easier to do it on the truck too but I wasn't going to tow it in for that. It went together quite easily afterwards.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

With thread-locker you actually don't need much heat at all, just a little to soften up. That won't even transfer to the end of the pump shaft, let alone to the aluminum pump housing or the fan clutch internals... And I did put some red Loctite when reinstalling my clutch after a pump swap, IMHO the extra safety factor is well worth the minor inconvenience next time I need to take it off... Oh yah, and I impacted the nut on with the air chisel (since that's what the wrenches are actually made to work with), so she should be good and tight on there for a while.

 

[hesutton]

I would not use any kind of thead locker. If your using the "correct" tool to get the clutch on and off you don't need it.

X2, I actually use anti-seize on mine just be sure it will come off in the furture.

Heath