head work and gaskets and head studs questions

[6.9man]

ok i am planning on sticking head studs in. but im wondering if you stick them in without actually taking the head off if you take 1 bolt out at a time and stick stud in and tighten down to 70 pounds and do the rest the same way and then tighten all down to whatever they can take after there all in. if that work?
the only reason i dont wanna pull the heads is afraid of warping but can you mill anything off these to resurface them without shaving the pistons too if there warped? whats the chances they be warped? when i got it and pulled with it i couldn't get the pyrometer over 1000 egts going up hill pulling load of cows so i dont think its ever been run real hot to warp them bad but never know what the guy did before i got it. and i have heard felpro head gaskets are the best to use is that true? i just wanna to get to where i dont ever gotta worry about running to much boost to blow head gasket and wouldn't mind being able to run more boost too. im just trying to figure out what i will have to do to it to before i tear into it and what im to expect to find? thanks

 

[icanfixall]

Why are you concerned with warping the heads. Has someone told you heating up these engines warps the heads. About 5 thousands can be milled off the heads but we have never found out why thats the demension yet. These heads are flat. They don't have a gasser type combustion chamger. The valves are sunk into the heads around 55 thousands and the pistons have an area called a Richardo cup made into them for the flame front. But thats it.
I'm assuming by the title you run a 6.9 engine and by the torque posted on the studs. At 10 or 12 lbs of boost you will not loose a head gasket. Installing studs one at a time and not removing the heads has been done but.. That can crack a head easily too. The member that did it was sucessful but he later left the forum. So long term was never felt like it was worth the chance. It surely was not the conventional way of doing studs. Removing heads while the engine is in the truck will be tuff beyond belief. Getting them off is nowhere as difficult as getting them on and not ruining the head gaskets. They are almost 90 lbs each. Its double the effort when a hasket fails too.
About gaskets. Felpro are a fine gasket. I have used them for many years with no issues. The Victor Rienz is probably a better head gasket. Both gaskets are about the best your going to find too. Many have bought head gaskets from Ford only to find an international package reboxed by Ford. I have been told that International used the victor reinz gaskets. I do not know if thats true or not so ask some questions here about it.
Milling a head is going to be more than just that. The precups are usually a problem for most machine shops because they are so much harder than the cast iron heads. They need some special attention. Then there is the removal of valves so why not do a valve job because the heads are off... Need to be milled and cleaned. Guides may need doing as will the valve seals. Who knows what shape the valves are in too So just be prepared for the unexpected once you get into it...

 

[6.9man]

thanks far as why im afraid about warping on the heads i know a guy who just rebuilt his cummins and took the head off and took it in and was 10 thousands off and the gasket wasent leaking before he tore it apart but it was probably run hotter or idi heads are stronger maybe then from what you say they are flat. and i was afraid doing stud 1 at a time might crack it figured i would ask confirm my suspicion. ya i was wondering about the valves i read about changing the angle makes a difference too im curious how much difference if that worth messing with or not too?

 

[rjjp]

Also have to remember that cummins head is a bit longer than our IDI heads.

 

[hesutton]

Like Gary said, doing the studs one at a time with the heads still on the truck has been done in the past. But, it makes me nervous. If you are at all concerned about the condition of the gaskets, heads, valves and their guides/seals. Pulling the engine and then the heads is the way to go.

Heath

 

[6.9man]

ya i know its easyer to do when motor is out wish i would of just went ahead and done it when i swaped it in don't wanna pull motor again not that fun the first time haha ill take my chances with my engine in yet though. whats the chances on the valves being good yet? i know you can here them rattle pretty good but that's normal on 6.9s though i figured

 

[icanfixall]

I have never heard that saying about its normal to hear the valaves rattleing in a 6.9... Actually never heard it said about any gasser or diesel engine. Taking off the heads and at least having them inspected is the best idea but make sure the shop can do the work and doesn't really NEED THE WORK... Sometimes is slower times they will take what walks in the door. I'll bet you didn't know you can get a day laborer or a brain surgen in a home depot parking lot....

 

[6.9man]

I have never heard that saying about its normal to hear the valaves rattleing in a 6.9... Actually never heard it said about any gasser or diesel engine. Taking off the heads and at least having them inspected is the best idea but make sure the shop can do the work and doesn't really NEED THE WORK... Sometimes is slower times they will take what walks in the door. I'll bet you didn't know you can get a day laborer or a brain surgen in a home depot parking lot....

lol if the valves need going through what is the best angle to stick on them and what not?