Gonna get to my injectors and ip finally!!

[gdhillon]

I think im gonna paint my lines blue while its all out, I guess all i need is engine paint and it should be good?

Its prob a good time to do the valve covers to seems like an easy unbolt, clean old gasket off put new one and and bolt up......I want to paint the covers blue as well

Anyone know the code/# for 'ford blue' engine paint?

The PO had screw type clamps on the return lines, should I use those type or should i use the 'pinch' clamps that the return line kit came with?

 

[riotwarrior]

Use the spring/pinch type...best type for this application.

Just go to Canadian tire and check out VHT engine paint and get Ford Blue I suppose, except these trucks never came blue engines, just grey.

Have fun with the project and ya valve covers should be done now, it's the best time to do them...

Al

 

[gdhillon]

Good ol' crappy tire lol, I just looked in my closet and guess what i found....felpro valve cover gaskets the PO gave me some goodies when I bought the truck I just never thought I'd use any of them so I put it all in my closet and forgot about it. Once I get the covers off can I clean the old gasket and mating surface with brake clean? And should I use the elephant snot since I have the felpro gasket?

O and what oil do you think will be good I want to go synthetic again b/c it seemed to help a lot with winter cold starting

Al, I owe you multiple beers haha

 

[gdhillon]

What do used hard lines usually go for?

 

[gdhillon]

I got all the injectors on the drivers side bank out, took a little digging but I found a 1'' combo kicking around in the garage....with the help of a rubber mallet i got the four on the drivers side bank out. The #6 injector had a tad bit of rust on the tip of the injector body (not the small tip)...the bores were clean and the injectors smelled like soot.

Now my concern for putting the injectors back in is torquing them....I have a 1" socket but it is shallow, I dont really want to go out and buy a 1'' deep socket just for this job but if I have to I will. I have a 24mm crows foot would that would?

Edit: They have "E" stamped on the nut part of them and a "S" in a square before standadyne

 

[bbjordan]

Those are E code injectors. Probably original!

Splurge on the 1" deep socket. You won't regret it.

 

[gdhillon]

Ok thanks jordan, so what your saying is with a new pump and ip my truck should have a looot more power? Now you got me all excited lol

I suppose I should lol, better do it right while I have it all apart do you happen to know what length I'm looking for or should I just take an injector to the store and try some sockets out?

Im a little confused with this whole static time thing, I noticed theres a slot on the rad end of the ip, is this the timing mark i need to mate up to my ip housing? I will be taking it to a shop in town to get it timed so id like to retard it a bit to be on the safe side. I have read that means moving the pump towards the driver side iirc what I dont quite get is how I am going to 'move' the pump while its all bolted down

 

[bbjordan]

A regular deep socket should work. It only has to be a little deeper regular socket. FWIW, I got mine from CDN Tire.

Lining up with the little mark on the IP housing is a good starting point. With the IP set there, you should be able to get the engine started. To get the best performance and economy, it should be timed...by yourself. You can get this lumey timing adapter for about $70. shipped! They work. I know cuz I got one.

Diesel Timing Adapter

Or go with the Ferret Timing Adapter:

Ferret Timing Adapter

I have both. I find the Ferret is easier/faster to set up.

Either way, you'll still need a good inductive timing light that gives you both RPM and Advance like this:

Timing Light

These tools will pay for themselves quickly. Especially if you plan to experiment with alternative fuels.

Your engine has 363350 kms on it, so don't expect miracles.

 

[gdhillon]

thats a decent price, i'll have to look into that thanks for the link and its in Canada thats a big plus...well its 369 now lol

hopefully i can get her all buttoned up and fire it up tomorrow, to jump the solenoid it is one of the nuts to the male connector which is plugged into the black elbow...correct?

that slot doesn't seem small to me maybe we're talking about two different things lol im referring to the slot on the direshaft of the pump

 

[riotwarrior]

A regular deep socket should work. It only has to be a little deeper regular socket. FWIW, I got mine from CDN Tire.

Lining up with the little mark on the IP housing is a good starting point. With the IP set there, you should be able to get the engine started. To get the best performance and economy, it should be timed...by yourself. You can get this lumey timing adapter for about $70. shipped! They work. I know cuz I got one.

Diesel Timing Adapter

Or go with the Ferret Timing Adapter:

Ferret Timing Adapter

I have both. I find the Ferret is easier/faster to set up.

Either way, you'll still need a good inductive timing light that gives you both RPM and Advance like this:

Timing Light

These tools will pay for themselves quickly. Especially if you plan to experiment with alternative fuels.

Your engine has 363350 kms on it, so don't expect miracles.

Actually that's NOT 100% true the advance light. So long as you can read the RPM you can set the timing with a regular timing light and timing tape on the harmonic!!!!

Just saying this has been tested and confirmed to be accurate enough for us!

 

[riotwarrior]

hopefully i can get her all buttoned up and fire it up tomorrow, to jump the solenoid it is one of the nuts to the male connector which is plugged into the black elbow...correct?

that slot doesn't seem small to me maybe we're talking about two different things lol im referring to the slot on the direshaft of the pump

YES to wire with elbow...look at my comp test thread it's in there!

Here review this thread for your static timing
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...nt-for-timing-purposes&highlight=timing+marks

This may help you too...
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...01&p=718334&highlight=timing+marks#post718334

Lastly this one too
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...Iming-tape-and-timing!&highlight=timing+marks

Hope that gets you settled in nicely...

 

[gdhillon]

thanks for the links Al, what i want to do is get the pump on and retard it enough that it is safe to drive about 5kms to the timing shop (pg fuel injection). B/c as your first tech says im one of those people who are not confident enough in my skills and from my understanding the wrong timing can kill an engine.

So as long as I can get her on and running I'll be a happy man

 

[gdhillon]

I think I get it know, when you use the 3/4 combo wrench to move the ip to either side your actually moving the drive shaft, so that in relation to the harmonic balancer gear is what changes the timing?.......or am I way off

 

[Mulochico]

The shaft stays put in relation to the gears. The ip body moves in relation to the housing. So when you move the ip body towards the passenger side it injects the fuel earlier. The shaft doesn't move in relation to the gears, this is why it is important not to remove the gear housing as this can cause a misalignment with the other gears and cause a sever out of time situation.

Hope that makes sense.

The gears are actually moving clockwise

 

[Agnem]

Here's the deal on the static timing marks. The line on the pump is made on a test bench, at the very start of injection. The line on the pump gear housing corresponds to TDC (or is supposed to). So at best, when the marks are aligned, injection occurs ATDC. This is the safest way to ensure that if a truck were left this way, it would run, and run safely. Run well? Not so much. Through my years of timing hundreds of trucks, I never found one where the marks were reversed (the pump to the right of the housing), but I did find perhaps one, where it was properly timed with the marks aligned. This could have been due to the marks being improperly made, or a problem with a gear. However, by and large, I would feel relatively comfortable telling anyone that when they initially put their pump on, the line on the pump should be a dimes width to the left of the line on the housing, and that it will run better there than with the marks aligned. Personally, when I mount one up, I never align the marks, but then I'm checking the timing right away anyway.