Gonna get to my injectors and ip finally!!

[gdhillon]

Just finished a summer work term and have decided I am going to service my injection system before 2nd year electrical starts (sept 16) I have Mels write up on the ip and I have also watched Garys youtube video on it all. I think I am pretty comfortable with the job but have a couple questions before I tackle it all. First and imo most important how do I wash my engine? Second is that combo wrench for the 3 bolts that hold the pump absolutely necessary? I seem to remember reading the part number but don't remember where I found it. How long on average (for the average joe like myself) should this job take? After I get the injectors off how would/am i supposed to I go about cleaning the bore?


I've been busy with work and upgrading my physics 12...if any of you were wondering why I haven't been on here in awhile

 

[Wyreth]

the exact special wrench is not necessary. However, you will need to make something like it. What I, and alot of people here, have done. Is to get a really really cheap 9/16ths tight space box wrench. Then attack it with a grinder and a torch. You will need to grind it down to where it is only 3/16" thick ( I think ) and you will also have to grind the outer diameter down as well. If you don't, you literally will not be able to get it onto the nut. But don't be afraid, it's only a $1 wrench. So guess, check, regrind, re-bend. It took me about 15 min to make mine. Once you try to get onto the nuts you will see exactly what you need the wrench to do. Just be prepared to sacrifice one to the cause.

It really is very simple and quick to simply make your own. Don't bother spending the absurd amount of money on the exact one.

I have to do this swap as soon as my replacement arrives. I'm banking on about an hours work, then 30 min to re-prime and start it.

then the unknown time it will take to time it properly.

 

[icanfixall]

If your talking about the 9/16 combo wrench then yes. Its necessary to have or make one. I was told a John Deere injecter wrench fits and works fine with no modifications. I have not confirmed this yet. But if you have any kind of heating torch like a map gas or an oxy actylelne torch they will work fine. The box end is ground thin like posted and the open end needs both sides ground thinner because they are too thick and will hit the pump body at times. Now as for the three drive bolts under the gear cover. Those are the specail hardened bolts with the 5/16 hex heads. Mel just uses a combo wrnch and his bare hands. I use the 12 point socket and my torque wrench because there is a 25 lbs torque on those hardened bolts. So its three nuts at 9/16 holding the pump to the gear cover. And there is three bolts with a 12 point hex and a 5/16 size socket need to remove them. And one cautionary note.. Never remove the 4 bolts holding the gear cover to the top of the block. I know that looks like the easy way to remove the pump from the engine.. But in the long run its not. What happens if you do it that way is the gear cover, the pump and the injection pump gear al come off as one piece. Then you loose the gear timing and its a horrible job to reset the gear. But it can be done if you need to help. Its just impossible to see down to the cam gear to locate the gear timing marks. This is a picture of the gears with the marks. See how far down the injection pump and cam gear marks are. With the water pump plate in place you have about 3/16 inch to see and feel down there for the "Y" marks. What Russ aka typ4 does is makes a small grind mark on the cam gear "Y" mark. Then he can just look down in there and see that the gear is at the correct position and not 180 degrees out.. Oh yes.. these cam gears have two timing marks. See the dot.. That has to match up to the crank gear. Some members have found out that these engines run but badly if they are gear timed 180 degrees out. That means someone turned the crank till they found the dampner tab zero mark and the damnper set but it was 180 degrees out. The dot was up facing the injection pump gear "Y" mark. It runs but very badly.. Ron had this on a truck his customer just had a shop change the injection upmp on. The trunk monkeys at that so called shop had no idea how to change a pump nor did they gear time it properly when they removed the pump and cover and gear as one piece... Heres the pic for those not understanding what I have posted..

 

[warmblood58]

I use a technique for engine cleaning that is simple and uses a minimum of water and keeps water away from switches, etc. When engine is warm, not hot, fill a garden sprayer with hot hot water and Dawn dishwashing liquid (Dawn really cuts grease) pump up sprayer and from the top down, hit the engine with micro bursts. I put a large mud pan underneath to catch the greasy water. I like this technique because it uses a minimum of water and then I go over the block with compressed air and then detail further with a brush, rag, etc. Surgical clamps work great with small pieces of cloth for further cleaning. I am always in a better mood working on a clean engine . .good luck!

 

[gdhillon]

https://www.google.ca/search?q=gard...lO-KIigLW3YCYBA&ved=0CFAQsAQ&biw=1366&bih=667

one of those things? My biggest worry is water in the intake, do you tape yours off?

 

[gonecrazyi]

I always use a regular craftsman wrench to swap ips . But I tend to get comfortable sitting on top of the engine before gettingto work lol.

 

[gdhillon]

when i wash/spray the engine is the intake the only thing i have to cover? or is there other orifices that dont like water? And what should I use to cover the alternator? A plastic bag?

 

[riotwarrior]

when i wash/spray the engine is the intake the only thing i have to cover? or is there other orifices that dont like water? And what should I use to cover the alternator? A plastic bag?

cover the intake as good as you can! I use a turbo snail sealed with plastic bag and tighten it down tight on the intake.

As for alt or anything else. pressure wash the whole thing off...don't directly shoot Alt though and blast it, but just spray around it, it's ok it should not get hurt. I've never covered one and never had a problem YET!

I'd suggest you get some good engine degreaser, Walmart sells a jug it's PURPLE in colour the jug is that is, and I've found it best myself.

I usually pressure wash the engine off first, get the thick grime off, then spray down with degreaser, let soak and then pressure wash again.

Now I've got access to a steam cleaner so I can just steam it off which IMHO is best!

Good luck!

 

[icanfixall]

U sux Al.. A steam cleaner is about the best thing for cleaning most anything.. Just be careful and try to blow it down after use. That way no water minerals will build up in th boilers.

 

[Mulochico]

And what should I use to cover the alternator? A plastic bag?

I figure that water gets in the alt anyway during a good storm so it shouldn't hurt it. I've never had a problem not covering it. As for everything else, don't shoot at the intake, or directly around valve covers, oil cooler, etc as if the oil is coming out, the water can get in. If you suspect water getting into your engine oil, plan on an oil change after the pressure wash.

 

[gdhillon]

Ok thanks for the advice guys! Is it recommended to clean the injector bores(correct me if im not using the right terminology) before putting the new ones in?

 

[gdhillon]

as far as oil goes I have been using synthetic 5w40 (i think it is) shell rotella oil. What do you guys recommend, I like the synthetic for cold winter days but iirc the rotella oil is CJ-4 or something and thats not good for our engines?

My valve covers do both leak so maybe Ill put a bag over them or something and not spray them directly

 

[riotwarrior]

Spray that ****** down and good and then swap out old Valve cover gaskets for new ones and be done...NO MORE LEAKS!

Simple???? U got elephant snot right? There ya go you know what to do then!

 

[gdhillon]

I did spray it down today with a pressure washer. A lot of water collected around the gps and under the intake manifold. The washer did a good job though it is fairly clean now, I can actually see the factory grey!.....I have a feeling those bolts wont want to come out on the valve cover lol

When i am retarding the timing do I move the entire IP to the drivers side? And when im hooking everything up do I bolt in the ip first then loosely do the injector hard lines? Or do i loosely bolt on the injector lines then bolt the bump up?

 

[gdhillon]

I read Mel's tech article over and it cleared up the order that I bolt everything back up. Couple things have me confused, first would be the antisieze, can I use permatex anti seize or there some special kind I need to get?

The priming process also is confusing me, my understanding it to bolt everything back up but leave the injector lines bolted loosely onto the injectors to bleed the air out of the system, I get that it would be good to prime the engine from the solenoid (jumping one of the leads with nuts to the male connector with the black rubber elbow), i am not sure what or why 12v needs to be connected to the forward most electrical component on the IP (rebuilt baby moose from Mel)