Wow you guys have been really helpful! I also was wondering if a regular Chiltons repair manual will go through any of this?
I never drained the oil out of the rails before I did my injectors. When I was putting everything back together, I just put the valve covers back on with 2 bolts to hold them in place after I had the injectors installed, left the glow plugs out, and turned the engine over a few times (short bursts with a 30 second wait time in between). That sprays all the oil out of the cylinders, and having the valve covers in place keeps it from making a huge mess.
If you put the rear end of the truck to a slight downward angle, and fill the HPOP reservoir after every 10 seconds of cranking, it will drain the air out of the system and start up within 30 minutes. I didn't even have to put my batteries on a charger.
Wonder how many rods you bent?
Go to superdutydiesel.com. and look for tech article on replacing injectors before you bend or break a couple connecting rods.
I didn't bend or break anything on my engine. I started off clearing the cylinders with "bumps" of the starter less than a second long, and about 10 seconds in between. Then I worked my way up to about 10 seconds long when I didn't hear any more resistance in the rotation, which didn't take too long. That, and my engine sat for over a week with no injectors in it because I sent them out to Rosewood to get rebuilt. I'm 100% positive that whatever oil had been sitting in the cylinders had leaked down past the piston rings by the time I got everything put back together.
Unless you tore the motor down and measured your rods or piston to deck clearances,dont tell me you didnt bend one.
...That, and my engine sat for over a week with no injectors in it because I sent them out to Rosewood to get rebuilt.