glow plugs & injector o-rings

Tanyr

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I am about to change my glowplugs, injector O-rings and reseal my fuel bowl. Any advice or tricks would be very helpful!
 

OLDBULL8

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When you pull the glow plugs out leave them out until you have all the injectors out, keep the injectors marked which cyl they came out of. After all is removed, put about 10 to 15 psi air pressure on the coolant system anyway you can, that will check for any cracked injector cups, if any cracked cups you'll see coolant come in the injector bores. Drain the oil out of the oil headers, otherwise you'll have a mess. when you pull the injectors some of that oil is going to get in the cylinders, leave the glow plugs out until you can turn the engine over after installing the injectors, otherwise you'll hydrolock the engine. Rosewooddieselshop.com or Dieselorings.com has the 0'ring sets if you don't have them yet. You don't say what year you have, good time to change the UVCH gaskets if there old, if there the double connection you can change them to the single connector, which is much better. Have plenty of rags handy, your gonna need them. When you rebuild the fuel bowl, be carefull, some of the fitting can breakoff easy.
This http://www.dieselorings.com/docs/OBSFuelBowlRebuild.pdf or this http://www.dieselorings.com/docs/FuelBowlRebuild.pdf
http://www.dieselorings.com/instruction-sheets-and-information.html
 

Tanyr

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wow! thanks for all of that information! and mine is a 2003 7.3. also how do I drain the oil out of the headers?
 

OLDBULL8

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There is a drain plug at each end. Also go to Gen. Dollar or the like and get one of those big baseting syringes to suck the oil out of the injector bores.

Edit: It's been suggested that when you have the fuel bowl out that you also should re-ring the HPOP. For the fuel bowl use the blue o'rings, they are a high temp o'ring.
 
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lindstromjd

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I never drained the oil out of the rails before I did my injectors. When I was putting everything back together, I just put the valve covers back on with 2 bolts to hold them in place after I had the injectors installed, left the glow plugs out, and turned the engine over a few times (short bursts with a 30 second wait time in between). That sprays all the oil out of the cylinders, and having the valve covers in place keeps it from making a huge mess.
If you put the rear end of the truck to a slight downward angle, and fill the HPOP reservoir after every 10 seconds of cranking, it will drain the air out of the system and start up within 30 minutes. I didn't even have to put my batteries on a charger.
 

Tanyr

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Wow you guys have been really helpful! I also was wondering if a regular Chiltons repair manual will go through any of this?
 

lindstromjd

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Wow you guys have been really helpful! I also was wondering if a regular Chiltons repair manual will go through any of this?

Pfft. Nope. They're about as helpful as RockAuto when it says that spark plugs are compatible with a diesel engine. LOL
 

OLDBULL8

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There is a little info in the Haynes Techbook 10330 Diesel Engine repair manual. about $16 Much better than Chilton

What lindstromjd said above. Forgot about replaceing the valve covers before turning engine over.
 

94f450sd

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I never drained the oil out of the rails before I did my injectors. When I was putting everything back together, I just put the valve covers back on with 2 bolts to hold them in place after I had the injectors installed, left the glow plugs out, and turned the engine over a few times (short bursts with a 30 second wait time in between). That sprays all the oil out of the cylinders, and having the valve covers in place keeps it from making a huge mess.
If you put the rear end of the truck to a slight downward angle, and fill the HPOP reservoir after every 10 seconds of cranking, it will drain the air out of the system and start up within 30 minutes. I didn't even have to put my batteries on a charger.

Wonder how many rods you bent?


Go to superdutydiesel.com. and look for tech article on replacing injectors before you bend or break a couple connecting rods.
 

lindstromjd

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Wonder how many rods you bent?


Go to superdutydiesel.com. and look for tech article on replacing injectors before you bend or break a couple connecting rods.

I didn't bend or break anything on my engine. I started off clearing the cylinders with "bumps" of the starter less than a second long, and about 10 seconds in between. Then I worked my way up to about 10 seconds long when I didn't hear any more resistance in the rotation, which didn't take too long. That, and my engine sat for over a week with no injectors in it because I sent them out to Rosewood to get rebuilt. I'm 100% positive that whatever oil had been sitting in the cylinders had leaked down past the piston rings by the time I got everything put back together.
 

OLDBULL8

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Tanyr: if you have to replace any injector cups , there is a guy on TheDieselStop.com who has a set of the tools for $200, hell'va good buy. I think it's in Other Items for sale. Go to rosewooddieselshop.com and check there price.

http://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/
 

94f450sd

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I didn't bend or break anything on my engine. I started off clearing the cylinders with "bumps" of the starter less than a second long, and about 10 seconds in between. Then I worked my way up to about 10 seconds long when I didn't hear any more resistance in the rotation, which didn't take too long. That, and my engine sat for over a week with no injectors in it because I sent them out to Rosewood to get rebuilt. I'm 100% positive that whatever oil had been sitting in the cylinders had leaked down past the piston rings by the time I got everything put back together.


Unless you tore the motor down and measured your rods or piston to deck clearances,dont tell me you didnt bend one.
 

lindstromjd

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...That, and my engine sat for over a week with no injectors in it because I sent them out to Rosewood to get rebuilt.

... ahem. Forgive me for sounding like an a$$ here, because I'm not really trying to. But have you ever taken the head off an engine and put oil into a cylinder and left it overnight to help loosen up stuck rings? I've never come back to an engine after doing that to find any oil left in the cylinder. And I've torn apart a lot of engines. That oil will find it's way past the compression and oil rings. It always does. So I stand by my statement that after letting the truck sit for over 2 weeks (forgot that it was that long; I was on vacation for a week), I didn't bend anything.
 

Agnem

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I'd also have to express my displeasure in seeing someone use the starter to crank an engine in the belief that it will get the oil out without damage. First, drain the rail. Just take the two internal plugs out. That will help a lot. Yes the one on the outside of the head is better, but getting to it is a major pain. Pull the back injector first. All the remaining oil is going to try to go there. Coat a penny in grease, and quick drop it in the cup as soon as you pull the injector. The oil will pool on top of the penny, and then you can suck it out with something. Use rags to get what you can't draw up. Once you've stopped bleeding oil, you can do the same trick with the other injectors. The oil to them will be less. Bar the engine over (assuming the glow plugs are in) and the compression will unseat the pennies, and you can get your money back. :) Of course clean the cups with a brush and make sure they are dry and clean when you install your new injectors. You can get replacement O-rings and anything else you may need for your powerstroke from my outfit, conestogadiesel.com
 

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