glow plug push button question

[ADV]

I have searched and read a bunch of glow plug stuff but can't find what I am looking for so here we go.

Little about my problem
1993 f350 push button glow plugs wired up following the tec article removed white wire and put a wire to a switch in that location. They have been on a push button for about a year now with no problems until a week ago when it burned out all 8 plugs, one day it started next day all burned out. Thinking solenoid stuck and kept them on. Got 8 new beru plugs and a solenoid still going to keep the push button I like that better.

Question
I am going to use a stock glow glow plug solenoid in the stock location on the valve cover using the controller as just a mounting base. Is there a reason I would need to hook up any of the wires coming out of the controller to the new solenoid? Or can I just cut them all of of my mounting base (glow plug controller) ?

Second question
Small terminals on top of new glow plug solenoid do I hook up the ground wire with my push button in it to one side and the small red wire that has power to it with the key on to the other small terminal? So it would be wired the same way it is now just no wires out controller hooked up.

I am sure all of this has been asked here before but electric stuff I have never been good with.
Thanks everyone

 

[franklin2]

You are trying to get 12v on the small terminals, so the two large terminals become "one" and power the glowplugs. So you will need the short red wire to hook the battery power to one of the small terminals. You will then get 12v across the small terminals when you ground the other small terminal with your pushbutton.

Hook the large battery leads to one of the large terminals, and the glowplugs to the other large terminal. You should not need any of the other smaller wires like you mentioned.

 

[ADV]

Thanks for the help

 

[opusd2]

Hey!
I found an interesting glow plug circuit online when researching something for my Military Blazer, trying to simplify things. I promised to find you one, and here is one. The quality of the circuit and actual operation I can't speak for. But soon a trip to Radio Shack or order to Allied Electronics and I will have the components to put the circuit together.

And here's a little tip to help with the ability to withstand vibrations that all diesels face: after soldering everything down on the PCB, you can stake it with silicone caulk. I like clear, but use whatever. There are dedicated staking compounds, but if necessary you can remove the silicone to check components and/or replace them.


Here's the circuit I found. It looks good. About a 9 second run time.

http://www.isuzupup.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=2674