Getting ready to install my c6 cooling upgrades

[Wrenchmonkey316]

I ordered and received the deep pan and rapid cooler y’all recommended. I have a small aux cooler already existing in front of the ac condenser so I was hoping I could mount the new rapid cooler one in-line right below the existing one to make the total surface area of both trans coolers about half the size of my ac condenser. Is this a good idea?

Should I use the dry corky looking gasket holly included for the new deep pan kit or rtv instead?

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Also was thinking about plugging up the radiator/trans cooling ports so I can run the two cooling systems separately. I am thinking it could maybe help with the troubleshooting process to separate them and monitor results with the two separate temp gauges.

 

[Rdnck84_03]

Should I use the dry corky looking gasket holly included for the new deep pan kit or rtv instead?

I I'm not a fan of the cork gaskets on anything, they tend to require occasionally retightening the bolts. If you over tighten them on install trying to prevent this the gasket can split and leak.

I would also recommend against the use of RTV for a trans, if it squeezes inside of the pan it can end up plugging the filter.

I always try to use the rubber gaskets for trans pans, oil pans, and valve covers.

James

 

[Jesus Freak]

Don't use any type of silicone on a automatic transmission or our ZF5s that are lubricated by ATF.

Other than that I've seen some old trannys that ain't leaking from the old cork gasket, but like @Rdnck84_03 said the rubber is probably best.

 

[Cubey]

I ordered and received the deep pan and rapid cooler y’all recommended. I have a small aux cooler already existing in front of the ac condenser so I was hoping I could mount the new rapid cooler one in-line right below the existing one to make the total surface area of both trans coolers about half the size of my ac condenser. Is this a good idea?

Should I use the dry corky looking gasket holly included for the new deep pan kit or rtv instead?

I used the gasket that came with the b&m deep pan and had no problems with leaks.

Did it come with cap screws or hex bolts? the hex bolts the pan came with were useless, they interfered with the pan casting on several so I couldn't tighten the bolts. Slightly longer 1" cap screws (because the bolts were 7/8" long) and several washers to take up the slack worked well.

 

[XOLATEM]

Should I use the dry corky looking gasket holly included for the new deep pan kit or rtv instead?

Late to the party here...

But I can tell you what I used to do...

On a rigid pan...cast aluminum...in a pinch the cork will work but as Rdnck84_03 says...you gotta not overtighten them and probably need to re-torque at some point...

I would not use RTV...just don't...the only time to use RTV is when you absolutely have to...and then it is best to use a really good grade of it if you can find some...

I would go to a transmission shop and get a Duraprene or a Farpak composite paper gasket and put it on dry, clean surfaces...

Just my .02...

P.S. did the pan come with a filter..? if so...the filter should have a metal gasket for it to the VB...do not overtighten the filter bolts and be aware that they are different sizes...put the filter bolts back right...watch how far they have to thread in and be sure that you don't put a long bolt in a short hole and vice-versa...

Good luck on it...

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Don't use any type of silicone on a automatic transmission or our ZF5s that are lubricated by ATF.

Other than that I've seen some old trannys that ain't leaking from the old cork gasket, but like @Rdnck84_03 said the rubber is probably best

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

It’s full and it won’t shift. Help

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Picture of the new filter

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

I ended up putting about 10 lbs on the filter bolts accidentally by not wearing my glasses. Oof. It’s not stripped so I’m ok.. right??

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

Late to the party here...

But I can tell you what I used to do...

On a rigid pan...cast aluminum...in a pinch the cork will work but as Rdnck84_03 says...you gotta not overtighten them and probably need to re-torque at some point...

I would not use RTV...just don't...the only time to use RTV is when you absolutely have to...and then it is best to use a really good grade of it if you can find some...

I would go to a transmission shop and get a Duraprene or a Farpak composite paper gasket and put it on dry, clean surfaces...

Just my .02...

P.S. did the pan come with a filter..? if so...the filter should have a metal gasket for it to the VB...do not overtighten the filter bolts and be aware that they are different sizes...put the filter bolts back right...watch how far they have to thread in and be sure that you don't put a long bolt in a short hole and vice-versa...

Good luck on it...

It won’t shift. Help!

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

So I went back and cycled through the gears slowly again multiple times, pausing for a few seconds each one. Finally I got it to shift. Checked the level and it was barely showing on the stick. Added some more a few times and it seems good now. It took 9.5 quarts! I’ll take it out for a short drive and recheck it tomorrow. Thanks for the help everybody.

 

[Wrenchmonkey316]

My c6 has the 4th gear added. Haha yeah I bet y’all were like 75 mph!?!? I wasn’t thinking about that earlier when we were talking about the differential gear ratio. First one I’ve had with the OD unit. Does anybody know how that shift point is adjusted? Everything else shifts at around 2k with nice easy gradual acceleration. The 4th needs 2.5k to shift at all though and it just doesn’t seem right. It feels like they may be adjusted separately??

 

[Cubey]

So I went back and cycled through the gears slowly again multiple times, pausing for a few seconds each one. Finally I got it to shift. Checked the level and it was barely showing on the stick. Added some more a few times and it seems good now. It took 9.5 quarts! I’ll take it out for a short drive and recheck it tomorrow. Thanks for the help everybody.

Yep it takes some time to get the fluid flowing. Mine did the same when I changed the fluid.

My c6 has the 4th gear added. Haha yeah I bet y’all were like 75 mph!?!? I wasn’t thinking about that earlier when we were talking about the differential gear ratio. First one I’ve had with the OD unit. Does anybody know how that shift point is adjusted? Everything else shifts at around 2k with nice easy gradual acceleration. The 4th needs 2.5k to shift at all though and it just doesn’t seem right. It feels like they may be adjusted separately??

Contact GearVendors and order the instruction manual. It has gear oil that needs to be changed every so often. It looks like it already has a deep sump, which is good. It's computer controlled so i don't think you can change the shift points on it.