Fuel tank & rear brakes

[tuckerd1]

Okay... that being said... I noticed that the 8 bolts I already took off had locktite or similar on the threads... Any idea what it was for sure? And a torque value so I can torque them back on??

Good new for me guys! I did NOT want to take that whole darned axle out!



Thanks!

Jim

Sure is nice to live in the south!! Just did my rear brakes and my drums almost fell off!! HEE! HEE!

Torque for the axle bolts is 60-80 ft-lbs.

 

[jslash]

One is loose!!

Progress! Three days of Kroil/tapping with a mallet has popped the driver's side drum! Still working on the passanger's side. Upon inspection of the driver's side shoes they are coated in *some* type of liquid. Not sure if it's brake fluid caused by a bad wheel cylinder (being replaced anyway after the bleeder snapped) or if it's gear lube caused by a failed seal. Any thoughts on that?

Jim

 

[sassyrel]

js--either,or both--also--after you put some kroil or your fav on--get a blunt end chisel--thats what their called--for your air hammer--and beat the snot out of it between the lugs--amazing how well this works--but please put on earmuffs--its noisy--had old boy show me this-only way to do it--

 

[tuckerd1]

Jim,

When I did my brakes a few weeks ago, I had to put new hub seals in. Shoes were coated in gear lube. You should be able to see if the wheel cylinders are leaking fairly easily.

 

[jslash]

Are the hub seals replacable without removing the axle?

Also, I hadn't put the eight bolts that hold the hub on back on because I wanted to find out what type of locktite they used and if it was necessary.... with all the pounding on the drums the hubs have *rotated*. Are they spring loaded? Or can I just line them up again and put the bolts back in?

TIA!!

Jim

 

[tuckerd1]

Yes, to replace the seals you have to pull the axles. They pull out after you remove the 8 bolts you already have removed. You will then need a Ford Hub Nut Socket to remove hub nut.

 

[tuckerd1]

BTW, someone mentioned it earlier, but if you need to replace the seals, you can remove the hub and drum together. You could then seperate the rusted drums from the hub while it is on the ground or your workbench. Might be easier with a badly rusted setup like yours.

 

[Snowman671]

I say If you got them that far apart inves tin the rear seals so that in a few months or a year your not tearing into them again to replace the brakes and the seals...


Dave

 

[towcat]

Progress! Three days of Kroil/tapping with a mallet has popped the driver's side drum! Still working on the passanger's side. Upon inspection of the driver's side shoes they are coated in *some* type of liquid. Not sure if it's brake fluid caused by a bad wheel cylinder (being replaced anyway after the bleeder snapped) or if it's gear lube caused by a failed seal. Any thoughts on that?

Jim

how good is your nose? brake fluid usually has no odor to it. gear oil on the other end stinks like something awful. If your other half is making you strip off all the truck work clothes before entering the house, its a really good sign you hit gear oil

 

[Agnem]

Hmm... seems to me at this point, since there is doubt as to the general condition of the hub seals, you may as well pull the axles and do the whole thing right. You can see if you have the upgraded axle seal with oil slinger and get it if you don't have it. Looks like that axle has been ignored enough that a complete going over is in your best interest.

 

[jslash]

Hmm... seems to me at this point, since there is doubt as to the general condition of the hub seals, you may as well pull the axles and do the whole thing right. You can see if you have the upgraded axle seal with oil slinger and get it if you don't have it. Looks like that axle has been ignored enough that a complete going over is in your best interest.

Yeah, you're probably right Mel. So I went out to survey the damage tonight. I think it was a fear of the unknown... I pulled the passangers side drive shaft. It was a piece of cake. Now of course I need to get those nuts off to remove the hub. Does anyone know if I can rent/borrow one of those tools from Autozone or similar? Sure beats buying one. Anyone live in the SoWisc/NoIll area that would like to have an afternoon of liquid refreshments and diesel truck work?!?!?

:Sly

Jim

 

[jslash]

BTW... if anyone is interested, you can see pics of the truck and current work at:

http://my.execpc.com/~jslash/F350/

Happy viewing

Jim

 

[sle2115]

Yeah, you're probably right Mel. So I went out to survey the damage tonight. I think it was a fear of the unknown... I pulled the passangers side drive shaft. It was a piece of cake. Now of course I need to get those nuts off to remove the hub. Does anyone know if I can rent/borrow one of those tools from Autozone or similar? Sure beats buying one. Anyone live in the SoWisc/NoIll area that would like to have an afternoon of liquid refreshments and diesel truck work?!?!?

:Sly

Jim

Wish I lived closer!!!

 

[jslash]

Well, I went out and bought the tool. You can also see the removed locking nut and bearing there too. Is that all there is to remove before the drum/hub comes off? Mine doesn't want to come off. I'm suspecting I'll need to back off the shoes a bit. The must be hung up on the drum. Anyone have any other thoughts? This wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be. It also appears that the bearings aren't packed with bearing grease. They appear to be bathed in gear lub from the axle. Am I seeing this correctly?

TIA!

Jim

P.S. Other pics... drum and hub . I'll need to move my classic Mustang before I can get the other axle out

 

[jslash]

Hmmmmm.... it's not getting hung up on the drum because the other side which has the drum removed won't come off either. Any thoughts on what is holding the hub on? It's loose and wobbles around but won't slide off...

Jim