Fresh Reman Engine Ticking

Clb

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Fwiw
The above statement speaks to asking the builder whats going on.
Sounds like you got it together.


Anyone else watching?
 

IDIoit

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im still curious if retarding/advancing the timing would have worked it out...

Russ says 8-8.5*

but one thing that was changed is the cam....
i hate to keep saying "thats what i did on my gassers"
but every cam swap required different timing.
 

Clb

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Damn good point!
Did ya time it..3 seperate times yet?
 

typ4

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Possibly be a bent exh valve. Leakdown check is in order.
 

Hydro-idi

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Good ideas gents. Earlier on today, I did try moving timing around a little & it didn't seem to make much difference. Leak down test seems like a great idea. But how in the hell does an exhaust valve bend & why would it?
 

Hydro-idi

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Fwiw
The above statement speaks to asking the builder whats going on.
Sounds like you got it together.


Anyone else watching?

This short block was rebuilt years ago by a company back east. It was sealed up & sat as overstock for god knows how long. Good thing it had a protective oil layer on it.
When I was asking manager questions about it when I was thinking about buying it, he didn't have much technical info to share with me.
 

IDIoit

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i really dont think its an issue with the bottom end.
its definitely top end related.
 

Hydro-idi

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I plan on heading to Brian's house to borrow his leak down tester today.....& to check out his projects as usual! I will test all cylinders and see how they perform.
Btw, would like to give a big thanks for all the replies and to Brian aka Idioit who has gone out of his way to help me out. Also would like to thank Rich aka Idi-econoline for letting me borrow his engine stand & hoist during my project. Pretty cool to have members that wanna help out.
 

IDIoit

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Pretty cool to have members that wanna help out.

isnt that the way the world is? OAHHHH thats the way the world WAS.
lets bring that back!

insomniac like a ****, no sleep for me... ill be in the shop after my pint of coffee.
 

laserjock

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Was the block decked, could you have an exhaust valve ever so slightly touching a piston? As tight as Gary says that spec is, an unknown origins short block even with good heads it seems a possibility. I hope not. About the only way to tell I would guess is pulling the head though. Maybe a bore scope down the hole to look at the piston top. :dunno
 

Clb

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I am hoping the talk with the shop would bring out some conversation and 20 questions type discussion about how you set it up what you put in it what they did to it .Then you might get them to tell you hey you need these gaskets or torque sequence or any little minute detail. I don't think the blocks bad as much as some of the valve assembly on the top end ,and that is probably giving you grief but which 'what ' the leaksown should find. I'm interested in the bent valve gig ( (long-shot?)setting the heads down on the table !?
Good luck keep at it.
 

Hydro-idi

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Yes the deck was blocked and so were the heads within spec. Would think that a pushrod would be bent if that happened and I haven't found any that are. We will see what the leak down test says and if it's no bueno, I will pull the head
 

icanfixall

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Sadly the after thought about a valva hitting a piston is even a question. Measuring the valve recession in the heads and measuring the piston protrusion from the cylinders sure would have told you there MIGHT be contact. In our engines we have pistons that come up out of the block as much as 31 thousands. I did run my first rebuild and the pistons were as much as 54 thousands up out of the block. I do not recommend this because EVERY valve made an imprint in the pistons. You could only "see it" but it was not measurable. That was way too close really. Remember our heads are flat. No combustion chambers and the only thing keeping the pistons from hitting the heads is the gasket thickness. I found that to be around 72 thousands. So figure we miss contacting the heads with pistons by around 40 thousands. I do have the measuring tool to find out what the pistons are doing at tdc. It bridges the cylinder. Its magnetic and has a dial indicator on it. You adjust it to zero off the deck. Then straddle the cylinder and run the piston up watching the indicator reach the max piston height. Its that simple and good information to have on file for this kind of issues. In no way am I recommending you pull the heads and check the valve recession or piston tdc height.
 
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