Fluid chnage in E4OD throws a code!

[FORDF250HDXLT]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-E40D-E...-nut-set-/260991785894?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Truck-...seal-Kit-/250759574857?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

^ that comes with the updated viton seal.you don't need to replace the bushing unless yours is worn.if it's worn and you need to replace the bushing anyway,then it would be a good idea to go ahead and install the k062 kit too since it's got a very nice bushing with knurls to help it from spinning and an enlarged drainback hole built right into it.to top it all off,you'll have increased lube volume not just higher pressure like the transgo mods make.however both are awesome upgrades.

http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/E4OD-4R100gasket/36309E.html

^ x9

http://www.bulkpart.com/2/product/E4OD-4R100washer/36210G.html

if you dont get a k062 kit,i dunno if the tugger kit comes with it or not (trans shop installed that one in chip truck during reman) but the E40D-HD2-D reprogramming kit doesn't come with the updated aluminum drain back valve to replace the plastic one...........but it should!
you can buy it from these guys separately;
http://www.sonnax.com/parts/2067

the tugger kit costs more than transgo's E40D-HD2-D reprogramming kit because it comes with many more parts that you would install during a reman.they will be going unused in your case,so you may want to opt for the lower cost kit,like i installed in log truck.
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?cat=E4OD_4R100&homeinclude=catalog&category_id=80&parent_id=80
^ just scroll down.

is your head spinning yet? lol

 

[trackspeeder]

The Tugger kit includes to snap rings that should be installed. They shouldn't be left in the box. HD-2 doesn't include these parts.

While the pump is apart, check the bushing. Replace if necessary. If you have a tranny shop instal all the parts. They should check out the whole pump. That includes the drain back valve, bushings, ect.

 

[tbrumm]

The Tugger kit includes to snap rings that should be installed. They shouldn't be left in the box. HD-2 doesn't include these parts.

While the pump is apart, check the bushing. Replace if necessary. If you have a tranny shop instal all the parts. They should check out the whole pump. That includes the drain back valve, bushings, ect.

Thanks, Trackspeeder - yep. it will be a trans shop doing the work. This is a little beyond my comfort level!

 

[tbrumm]

is your head spinning yet? lol

Yes - as a matter of fact it is!

I ordered the Tugger kit, but I also ordered the Superior pump correction kit, so I know that it has the metal drain back valve in it, even though the Tugger may not. It also has that knurled bushing just in case the current one is sloppy. The parts should start trickling in here soon and I hope to get the truck to the trans guy in a couple of weeks. I'll have to see what his schedule is. If he has all the parts needed when I take the truck in, then he should stay on my project until it is done. If he has to wait on any parts, you get bumped back until the parts come in (understandable) but he may then also finish up some other projects before he gets back to yours, even though he has the parts. Small shop-busy owner!

 

[trackspeeder]

I would go ahead and change the pump bushing. You have it, use it.

When you get your parts, read the instructions. This will give you an idea as to what your shop guy is doing.
It should help your "head spinning" issue.

 

[tbrumm]

So, I ordered the updated transmission range sensor for an outfit on E-bay as it was advertised as an OEM part.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190786949988?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
It arrived yesterday and while the part appears to be new, there are no install instructions. So digging around on here, I found the pin out diagram that Ron Diesel Dog Treat posted a while back (Thanks, Ron!).
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31613&stc=1&d=1284305121
I know the updated connector is the bottom diagram. Any tips on doing replacing the harness connector? I assume that the wires do not need to be cut and that somehow those terminals can be released form the old connector?
Any tips on adjusting the TRS for proper operation? Thanks, guys!

 

[direwulf23]

If you're trouble shooting the problem it would be best to change one thing at a time, of course. Were you planning on doing everything at once?

 

[anotheridi]

I'm not sure how that harness is, I'll try to look at it today, we got the trans jack under the trans last night all that's left are the mounting bolts and it will come out, I'll be inspecting all the wiring and connectors with a comb while it's out. I usually grab a paper clip or a piece off solid electrical wire and file a point on it to push out old pins in connectors but I think it looks like in that particular connector the red inner part may need to come out to slide the pins out. I'll get back to you this afternoon if I figure it out.

 

[tbrumm]

I'm not sure how that harness is, I'll try to look at it today, we got the trans jack under the trans last night all that's left are the mounting bolts and it will come out, I'll be inspecting all the wiring and connectors with a comb while it's out. I usually grab a paper clip or a piece off solid electrical wire and file a point on it to push out old pins in connectors but I think it looks like in that particular connector the red inner part may need to come out to slide the pins out. I'll get back to you this afternoon if I figure it out.

Thanks anotheridi- no hurry - no way I am changing the TRS today - it is 10 below right now. I thought maybe the red insert was what would lock/release the pins.

Direwulf - I was going to change the TRS before the truck goes to the trans shop. The pins have some corrosion and the harness connector has one tab broken off so I thought I might just as well update to the newer connector to keep the water out. I don't think the TRS is causing the Code 62 issue, or even contributing to it. The research I have done indicates that while a bad MLPS(now TRS) can cause a whole host of issues including wrong gear starts, I have found specific information that states in cannot cause a code 62 (and you can believe everything posted on the internet, right?)

 

[direwulf23]

It's definitely worth trying out then. I'm sorry, I've missed some of the posts so you may have had that information already in the thread. However, I have read that MLPS problems can cause code 62 problems. Lol

 

[anotheridi]

There was a service bulletin on the mlps somewhere too, if you don't have that I'll try to find a link. It had to do with adjusting it.

 

[direwulf23]

I'd imagine it was posted by FORDF250HDXLT

 

[anotheridi]

Well while I was looking for it I found a great write up on how to install the new style sensor and wiring, so hopefully this helps you out
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=191742#/forumsite/20982/topics/191742

 

[sjwelds]

I'd imagine it was posted by FORDF250HDXLT

Surely not!! What does HE know???

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

666 doesn't have a thing on 62

there a go that's the one anotheridi.everything you need to know,to do the job right there.now you watch,tbrumm will clean up the pins,install the new updated better sealed sensor and somehow it will cure his 62 code and all those parts on order wont be needed lol!
i don't know of any wires there,that when disconnected (corroded wires/pins) triggers the 62 code.......but im not 100% on this one either.it definitely needs to be done though either way,cus typically when this sensor fails or it's connector get's to the point of failure this one calls in Satan himself lol and he reaches under your truck and throws your trans in neutral and then he frigs around and tosses it back in random gears and it bangs back in!