eninge not getting hot enough?

[Mat J]

my stock temp gauge never worked, so i put in an isspro and it read 190 running empty. well then it started reading only 140 and then it wouldnt go over 100. so i replaced my thermostat with a motorcraft one because i figured my old one was stuck open. well the one i pulled out wasnt the same as the motorcraft. i put in a new stock sender also.

iv been driving a few days now and my stock gauge goes to the O and my isspro i guess it isnt working right, it reads 100 or 140 it just depends under the exact same conditions.

when i feel the upper radiator hose its hot and the lower one is cool even after 30minutes driving. i dont think my fan is locked up i can spin it by hand with the motor off.

i am kinda at a loss of what to do other then drop some money on another gauge. what do you guys think? iv got an IR temp gun but where can i use that to see its its running hot enough.

 

[forcefed]

The only thing I can think of that it sounds like a air pocket around your temp probe. Maybe you do have a bad guage, but I would pull the probe out and look at it first. Sorry don't know any other thing to try.

 

[Mat J]

thanks for the input, if there is an air bubble im not sure how to get it out. i did look at the probe though and it looks normal, i also tried useing a ground jumper to where the sender goes into the block to see if it would do anything and it didnt.

is it normal for the lower hose to not heat up though?

 

[forcefed]

once the thermostat opens, both hoses should be warm I would think. I'm sure others will chime in with more input.

 

[jperecko]

The lower hose should get warm but not as warm as the top. The hot coolant goes from the top and gets cooled and returns to the engine via the lower hose... so it will get warm as the engine is warmed up but it should not be toooo much higher than ambient- cooler than the top one for sure.

 

[Mat J]

ok thats about how it is then so maybe everything is fine now and i just have a bad gauge.

how do i know if the radiator cap is working right?

 

[jperecko]

The radiator cap should only really "work" if you overheat. It should remain sealed until a given pressure (should be labeled on the cap- from around 9 to 20PSI) and then it will allow some coolant into the overflow. You gain pressure by increasing heat. So this happens when the engine is running hot. By pressurizing the coolant system, you keep the water from reaching boiling which keeps everything at a liquid till it overheats or pops the cap. Basically... your cap can only really fail if the gaskets get old or if the spring is damaged. if your gaskets are fine, I would not worry about it. Caps are generic and cheap though so you can replace it if you feel yours is old and are unsure about it.

 

[dyoung14]

i would see about getting a new gauge, mine runs about 184 crusing empty and about 198 pulling the mountain empty and ploring it

 

[yARIC008]

The radiator cap should only really "work" if you overheat. It should remain sealed until a given pressure (should be labeled on the cap- from around 9 to 20PSI) and then it will allow some coolant into the overflow. You gain pressure by increasing heat. So this happens when the engine is running hot. By pressurizing the coolant system, you keep the water from reaching boiling which keeps everything at a liquid till it overheats or pops the cap. Basically... your cap can only really fail if the gaskets get old or if the spring is damaged. if your gaskets are fine, I would not worry about it. Caps are generic and cheap though so you can replace it if you feel yours is old and are unsure about it.

We were always told that the cap is important on the IDI's and needs to be a 13PSI cap. I'd be worried to use a 20 PSI cap for fear of springing a leak somewhere if the pressure built up that high. The 13 PSI cap is supposed to keep cavitation at bay though so I've read.

As for the temp probe, can't you pull out the probe with the coolant system full and that'd let the air be pushed out the hole, then just thread it back in.

 

[dyoung14]

i have never had any problem with air even when i flushed and drained my system

 

[FordGuy100]

I would think your gauge is messed up. I know if my gauges dont have a good ground, or a loose ground they will go bouncing all over the place. Sometimes I just take my foot and kick all the wiring under the dash and it fixes it

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Where'd You install the probe?

 

[oldmisterbill]

I would think your gauge is messed up. I know if my gauges dont have a good ground, or a loose ground they will go bouncing all over the place. Sometimes I just take my foot and kick all the wiring under the dash and it fixes it

Now thats a good tip!! I remember doing that a few times.Didnt help when my radiator leaked just made it worse.

 

[sassyrel]

We were always told that the cap is important on the IDI's and needs to be a 13PSI cap. I'd be worried to use a 20 PSI cap for fear of springing a leak somewhere if the pressure built up that high. The 13 PSI cap is supposed to keep cavitation at bay though so I've read.

As for the temp probe, can't you pull out the probe with the coolant system full and that'd let the air be pushed out the hole, then just thread it back in.

eric--wont stop cavitation at all--thats what the sca's are for--

 

[Mat J]

the probe is in the drivers head next to the overheat sensor.