E4OD SHIFTING

[LCAM-01XA]

Oookay, here's an update on the whole situation:

1) I first did SigEpBlue's mod with the 100-ohm resistor jumped between the main power supply and the low pressure EPC solenoid wire (white/yellow) - resistor was installed last night, today I didn't notice no changes in transmission behavior whatsoever. So tonight after work I decided to measure the voltages at the wires with the truck idling in gear (truck driven against a tall curb with a big stone wall just a few inches away from the bumper) - as expected the red wire had 13.xx volts (batter voltage), however the white/yellow only had 9V at it. Aight, now let's try without the jumper - shut truck off, pull resistor, restart truck, and sure enough white/yellow wire now reads 8.3 to 8.5V - so the jumper not only didn't lower the voltage, but like Mr. Roboto suggested it actually increased it, by 0.5V to be exact. Which if anything would result in a slightly softer (and slower) shift - not what I want.

2) Time for Marq's mod - pull SigEpBlue's jumper completely, cut white/yellow wire, attach bullet connectors to both loose ends (so I can plug it back together and go back to a stock circuit), then attach bullet connectors to the spare 100-ohm resistor I had (Radio Shack sells them in packs of two), and finally plug the new resistor between the two ends of the white/yellow wire. Take truck out for a drive - wow, what a huge difference, clutch engagement is very fast, shifts are not neck-snapping but still very firm, maybe a bit firmer than I'd like them to be. So tomorrow I'm gonna go to the Radio Shack again and grab a pair of 50-ohm resistors, and set one of them up as a replacement for the 100-ohm unit I got now - that should soften the shifts a bit, but still be far from stock. One thing I noticed tho, transmission seems to run hot, not like I ever touched the pan before really. Shouldn't be much of an issue, I got two coolers up front, plumbed in series - I know for a stacked-plate coolers tis good to plumb them in parallel, but those are snake-tubes so to the transmission fluid they ain't nothing more than a looong transmission line.

Jumper and consequently inline resistor were installed in the harness halfway between the driver-side frame rail and the transmission, as in that spot the wires are very easily accessible. Once I decide which resistor I wanna use the connections will get coated with dielectric grease, and then nicely taped up and covered with corrugated wire loom.

Questions, suggestions, concerns?

 

[MARQ2277]

Cool!! Ya, I was pretty impressed by the difference. I still have the viarable resister on mine. I get more $$ on Thursday, and I will get the permenant set up than. I am going to mount the viariable adjust in the dash, next to my converter lock up switch.

Next, I will add a trans-cooler, change the filter, and go with synthetic juice also.

Marq

 

[tradergem]

MARQ2277,
What is the part # for the variable resister you used? Where did you get it?

Jim

 

[MARQ2277]

I got it at Radio Shack. It is a 3 watt, 25 ohm reostate. But it is too small and gets hot. I have it glued to a big heat sink until I can get one that is rated at about 25 watts.

Here, I usually get my eletrical parts through this company (oh, and in case it matters, I was an electrical engineer).

Mouser Electronics:
www.mouser.com
1-800-346-6873

The part I will get is #588-RHS-10E
This part is actually a 25 watt, 10ohm veriable. I believe the 10 ohm is what is needed, but the wattage has to be 25 watts, as the solenoid is a low impedance, and draws some juice.

If you have any other questions, please ask.

Marq
_____________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no fuff on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I got a 50-ohm-10-watt resistor in there now, softened the shifts a bit compared to the 100-ohm beast, but tis still light years away from the stock shift. I like this one a lot, but just for trial I'm gonna get a 10-ohm-10-watt resistor as well, and see how it works. The 10-watt resistors don't get hot, at least I didn't feel any abnormal heat.

 

[MARQ2277]

Yeh, my 3 watt, I could make french toast on it (without a heat sink), but I was being in a hurry; Let me know if you try the 10 ohm, 'cause I am kinda broke right this minute, and it may be a minute more before I can switch it out.

Marq
_________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Marq, I use the $1.99 2-pack resistors from RadioShack

 

[MARQ2277]

Was that the 100 ohm 10 watt resistor??

Marq

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Yes sir, 100-ohm 10-watt, with 10% accuracy or whatever

 

[MARQ2277]

When are you going to change it?? I have to wait (which is just pretty bad, being that the part I want is not that much $$) to buy it. I am still waiting on my freebe check from the Gov., so I can blow it on my truck wish list!! lol

Marq
______________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Marq, I just bought the 10-ohm 10-watt resistor, I'm gonna crimp the bullets on and tape it up and pop it in tonight after work. I'll report how it works tomorrow around, as Tuesdays I got the evening shift.

 

[MARQ2277]

Sweet!!! Now I am going to pace the floor 'till I heara from you!! lol

Marq
_______________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Lol, watch out not to wear out the carpet, or your truck ain't gonna see no gov checks

 

[MARQ2277]

Okay I am sitting on my hands, but hurry. lol

MARQ
_______________________________

 

[LCAM-01XA]

10-ohm resistor is in, finishing up the trailer harness tomorrow morning then taking it out for a drive to the hardware store or Radio Shack for more bullet connectors - the ones on my glow plugs harness are in very poor shape, and my glow plugs don't glow quite well no more - last time I wiggled the harness it was all good for a while, so I hope tis still that and no the plugs themselves.