E4OD SHIFTING

[MARQ2277]

WOW, I just figured it out. I have been torn about firming up the shift of our E4OD tranny without paying hundreds of dollars for a controller. There are two basic ways shifting can be firmed up. One way is to mechanically do by way of modifying the Accumulator (and there are lots of kits out there for that), and the second way is to do it by electronics (and there are expensive controllers out there for that too). But, while doing research, I just figured out how to modify the signal (actually voltage) from the stock ECU to the transmission ECP Solenoid to increase the shift from soft, to snap your neck off your body. And it's so easy, it's almost stupid. I am going to do it tomorrow to my E4OD, but first I need to wait (it's like 3 in the morning) to go to Radio Shack in the morning, and get one part, and pow. . . time to rock!!!

marq

 

[discbrks]

Really??! C'mon now, you gotta share. Let us know how it works. I'm really interested to know if it will firm up the torque converter lock-up shift. I hava a Banks Transcommand on mine, but that lockup shift still feels crappy.

 

[MARQ2277]

FIRM SHIFT

I wanted to wait to do it first before telling everyone about it, but I am confident it will work. I may have to modify something after I do it but here it goes:

Our E4OD pressure lines are controlled by two (2) solenoids; a low ECP (Electronic Control Pressure) solenoid, which connects via pin 11 on the transmission connector; and a high ECP solenoid, via pin 12. These two (2) pin (wires) are the last two (2) wires on the outside of the connector toward the front of the truck. There are two (2) rows, inside (close to the transmission), and outside (away from the transmission). Pin 1 (is the first pin/wire on the inside towards the front of the truck, and will be a solid red wire (provide 12 volts to the transmission)) Pin six (6) is the last wire on the inside towards the back of truck. Pin seven (7) is the last pin (wire) on the outside towards the back of the truck. As a side note, pin four (4) is the wire that controls the torque converter lock up.

Any, the ECU sends 12 volts to the high ECP (pin/wire 12, last wire on the outside towards the front of truck), and sends 12 volts to the low ECP (pin/wire 11, next to 12). As long as the voltage is the same regardless of the voltage (in some applications, and condition the voltage will be less than 12 volts), the line pressure will be at whatever pressure you are feeling now. Here is the trick, by limiting the voltage to the Low ECP pin/wire 11, the pressure will increase (beings as you cannot increase the High ECP, because it will be at it's max valtage). Now, the less voltage to the Low ECP, the greating the line pressure, the firmer the shift. Now, there are several things you can do, such as use resisters, etc., but; All I am going to do is wire a potemeter (like a volume knob), which when you turn it, it will cut the voltage (basically it is a rotating variable resister). I will just cut the white with yellow stripe wire at pin 11 (see above), and attach wires to extend them (the white/yellow wire that goes now to the pin 11 on the transmission, and the white /yellow wire that runs back to the ECU) so I can mount my knob on the dash. Now, just drive, and turn the knob till it shifts where you want it, mark it, and smile.

Marq

 

[Mr_Roboto]

You are engineering something that is already done, and fairly inexpensive. Look up "pressure riser" on the internet. You can get a single unit or adjustable unit.

 

[MARQ2277]

pressure riser

I just spent an hour looking for this pressure riser, and could not find anything. If you know of something, could you help me find it. And, yes I am trying to engineer something. I am trying to get the correct part I need to correctly test my idea, so until than, . . .

I did find one (1) by PATC, but the part will not work on the 93 and earlier E40D transmissions because (please take note, because this will include any programer and/or electronic add on or permormance products); the 1993 and earlier E4OD transmission use a one (1) ohm solenoids, and the 1994 and later E4OD use a ten (10) ohm solenoids. In fact, some kit require you to change the lock up one (1) ohm solenoid to a ten (10) ohm lock up solenoid for the programer to work.

So, not only am I trying to work around spending a lot of money on a aftermarket programer (just to raise line pressure during and after shifts), but I have to work with a limited one (1) ohm electrical parts. In all reality, to be honest, if I had the funds, I would just purchasean Accumelator (reprogramed and set up with correct valves and springs) from Greg Evens for $225. But, I am a disabled vet on a fixed income, and can't get the extra $$; and, I have to tow my 28 foot RV ('cause I live in it).

Sooooooooooo . . . .

 

[GenLightening]

Try E4OD pressure riser, you should get a bunch of sites to check out.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

This is from FSB, I'm doing it tomorrow if we get done with the Jeep early, gonna use the 100ohm resistor:

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1685872

 

[MARQ2277]

COOL

Let me know how it turns out, be sure to check out my last correction on the pin/wire location. The diagram I used was photo copied, and was backwards. Just so you know, the #1 pin/wire is the first one in the back inside position. You will know, because the last pin/wire (inside row) #6 is missing. the outside row, next to #1, will be #12 (white with a dark stripe), and the next one in line (still on the outside) will be the one you want, #11, and it will be white with a yellow stripe.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/search.php?searchid=232743

It's hard to find on a search engine, I suspect that those 2 particular words are used together a lot in things not referencing the device in question, which buries the results.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Actually I was just going to cut the white/yellow wire at a convenient location, attach bullet connectors to both ends, and plug the resistor thing in there - this way I can plug in different resistors, and I can also pull the resistor completely and hook the wire up like it was stock, if I need to. Does that sound like a plan, or am I missing something?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Mr. Roboto, link don't work.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

It was just a link to the search "pressure riser" on this site.

The pressure riser company lists the resistances for their devices (to test for failed devices).

I'm not sure if the way you are looking to wire will work. The way the pressure riser works it INCREASES voltage (by shorting between supply and return voltage with a resistor).

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Well I thought that's what Marq2277 suggested doing - install the resistor in the low EPC wire, the ECU will read lower voltage, and ramp up the line pressure?

Tho on the other hand what you say coincides with what SigEpBlue suggested on FSB - shorting between the EPC wire and the constant 12V.

Now here's the question is Marq2277 right on the E4OD having two solenoids? Cause if he is, and the white/yellow wire on pin #11 is indeed the one for the low EPC, if we jump that to the red wire and increase the voltage on the low EPC solenoid, ain't that gonna reduce the line pressure? If we are increasing voltage to an EPC solenoid, shouldn't that be done to the the high EPC one, that runs off the wire in pin #12, the white one with the dark stripe? Or am I understanding all this wrong again?

 

[MARQ2277]

Yep. that is how it works. I just use a veriable resister now, so I can adjust it. I drove it around today testing it, and I'm pretty pleased with the results. I flip the torque converter lock up at about 20 MPH, hit the go peddle and grin . . .

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Marq, so you just cut the white/yellow wire, and plugged the variable resistor inline? What resistor did you use, what ohm ratings?