I can give that a try. Accelerate up to around 2000rpm or so then just let go of the throttle?Can you get it to shift sooner if you quickly let go of the throttle after a fairly aggressive acceleration?
James
I can give that a try. Accelerate up to around 2000rpm or so then just let go of the throttle?Can you get it to shift sooner if you quickly let go of the throttle after a fairly aggressive acceleration?
James
If you mean it's shifting 1 to 3, that's not the case. I can count (and feel) the shifts from 1-2-3-OD. It does do the 1-2 shift consistently when placed in drive, just at the high rpm I've mentioned. That being said I can give it the beans from 1st and then back of the throttle and see what happens.Yes. If it immediately shifts, I think it may just be completely jumping over 2nd for some reason. I had that happen on 2 different 4r100s.
James
I do feel four shifts. I do a little test loop that's a few miles long and give me a few chances to run through all the gears as it requires a few stops. When accelerating to highway speed (60mph) the shift points are fine as you are giving 50% throttle or so to get up to speed. The issue is when you are burbling along in a residential area with a speed limit of 25mph or so. In that setup when you are light on the throttle the trans is staying in 1 and you have 2000+ rpm and feels like it should be shifting...You should be able to feel what seems like 4 shifts. It is automatically in 1 when D is selected, so you should feel 2-3-TC lock- OD.
@XOLATEM has far more knowledge than me on the internal workings than me.
James
That is probably a 3 wire sensor...power, (B+) ground and signal return...I have an on again, off again code 22 for the baro sensor even with a working one.
I wonder if someone who didn't know what they were doing tried changing the shift points? I am very unsure about what can be tweaked on the early tcm, have never messed with one. I know that the he early powerstrokes were completely tunable.Updates....
There was nothing wrong with that cap. I tested it once removed from the board and..... it was fine. Capacitance reading was exactly what it was supposed to be. Put the cap back in the computer and then buttoned it all up and did a test drive to make sure I didn't fry the computer. Computer did not fry, shift point did not change.
As an experiment I gave it the beans for the very first time on the highway and saw the computer DID change the shift points to hold onto the gears longer due to me having it at WOT. So... at this point I'm going to say the high shift in first is normal, or as close to normal as I'm going to get.
I'll continue to go through and fix the electrical issues as I find them, probably take a look at the FIPL again and adjust on it a bit to see what happens.