I don't see in any posts that the Diode in the fuse panel was checked out.
E4OD electronically damaged by Alternator?
- Thread starter derjackistweg
- Start date
i thought he found his problem:
just a bad relay.a 30 second fix.
derjackistweg
Full Access Member
I checked the diode and the relais but nothing special besides the lower voltage.
My mechanic will check what happens after a change of the relais.
fsmyth
Full Access Member
3 volts or that neighborhood will be a backfeed from something else.
Bad (open) diode or relay could do it.
Bad (open) diode or relay could do it.
Engine won't shut down. First thing, ignition switch. Also could keep alt on and kill batts .
fsmyth
Full Access Member
Huh. missed that, Russ.
What he said. the ignition switch is a very likely suspect. Cheap to replace,
and good insurance. The way they are made, the years will tell on them.
What he said. the ignition switch is a very likely suspect. Cheap to replace,
and good insurance. The way they are made, the years will tell on them.
derjackistweg
Full Access Member
The solenoid of the IP was checked. It works, as long as the engine is NOT running. But not anymore if the engine runs. So so the solenoid is not defect but something else. Maybe the ignition switch...
But beside that, I don´t understand what an defect ignition switch has to do with an non changing gear in the tranny? Note the tranny is going in forward and reverse. But only in these 2 gears. I would guess if the ignition switch fails you will normally still be able to us the tranny.
Forward gear means that by manuell shifting nothing changes. The max (?) speed in that gear is roughly 45km/h ~ 30mph. I have 265/75-16 with 4.10. According to http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html with my tranny/diffs/tires this is the first gear.
But beside that, I don´t understand what an defect ignition switch has to do with an non changing gear in the tranny? Note the tranny is going in forward and reverse. But only in these 2 gears. I would guess if the ignition switch fails you will normally still be able to us the tranny.
Forward gear means that by manuell shifting nothing changes. The max (?) speed in that gear is roughly 45km/h ~ 30mph. I have 265/75-16 with 4.10. According to http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html with my tranny/diffs/tires this is the first gear.
Russ (typ4) is referring to the ignition switch, is that if it's shorted out after being turned off, it would keep the IP solenoid energized, that's why you have to pull the wire off of it to shut the engine down, also it would kill the batteries.
Don't know how the DIODE was checked. But here is how it should be. With a VOM set on 200K Ohms, with the (Red) lead on one side and (Black) lead on the other side, there should be a reading of Hi Ohms, then reverse the leads and there should be NO reading, if you get a reading in both directions or NO reading in either direction, that Diode is BAD.
because your transmission is controlled electronically using a control unit.without that getting 12v you'll only have reverse and second gear (in both manual 1 and 2 positions) and you'll have high gear in D.
fsmyth
Full Access Member
And the ignition switch is overly complicated. One of the few I have seen that
also switched grounds on and off for control. Saves money on relays, but makes
troubleshooting problematic for someone not very familiar with its functions.
also switched grounds on and off for control. Saves money on relays, but makes
troubleshooting problematic for someone not very familiar with its functions.
derjackistweg
Full Access Member
So long time no see...
My truck is now at one of the biggest Ford Dealers in Germany. That generally means Ford Europe, of course. Witch actually means nothing.
knowing everything that was discussed here so far - the chief decides to "fix" harness to get a proper reading of the electronics with his tools........
So far costs for that would be some thousands of US $
So this means for me: I need a new one (mechanic) - or fix it myself - or set the bloody Van on fire ...
...or find another solution. As no one seams to be able to have any clue how E4OD and Truck harness and the ECU/TCU work together - I have an idea of using a stand alone Transmission driver, of module.
I´ve seen these exist also for the E4OD and cost for these are starting from roughly 600 US + harness. Has anyone here real world experience with these modules? Would / could this be a solution?
My truck is now at one of the biggest Ford Dealers in Germany. That generally means Ford Europe, of course. Witch actually means nothing.
knowing everything that was discussed here so far - the chief decides to "fix" harness to get a proper reading of the electronics with his tools........
So far costs for that would be some thousands of US $
So this means for me: I need a new one (mechanic) - or fix it myself - or set the bloody Van on fire ...
...or find another solution. As no one seams to be able to have any clue how E4OD and Truck harness and the ECU/TCU work together - I have an idea of using a stand alone Transmission driver, of module.
I´ve seen these exist also for the E4OD and cost for these are starting from roughly 600 US + harness. Has anyone here real world experience with these modules? Would / could this be a solution?
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
Stand alone controllers are nice. You can make the auto shift at any point you want.
You will need a tach,VSS, and TPS signal. You have that already. So it would a matter of replacing the stock TCM with a new aftermarket unit.
You will need a tach,VSS, and TPS signal. You have that already. So it would a matter of replacing the stock TCM with a new aftermarket unit.
So long time no see...
My truck is now at one of the biggest Ford Dealers in Germany. That generally means Ford Europe, of course. Witch actually means nothing.
knowing everything that was discussed here so far - the chief decides to "fix" harness to get a proper reading of the electronics with his tools........
So far costs for that would be some thousands of US $
So this means for me: I need a new one (mechanic) - or fix it myself - or set the bloody Van on fire ...
...or find another solution. As no one seams to be able to have any clue how E4OD and Truck harness and the ECU/TCU work together - I have an idea of using a stand alone Transmission driver, of module.
I´ve seen these exist also for the E4OD and cost for these are starting from roughly 600 US + harness. Has anyone here real world experience with these modules? Would / could this be a solution?
if you checked the relay and still not getting 12V and you can't seem to figure out why,then why not just run your own 12v switched relay to power the trans controller? cheap and easy.
aftermarket or factory controller = same thing.they both need to be fed 12v either way.
actually.forget everything.try this:
show your mechanic where you need 12 volts.tell him you don't care if he bypasses the oem system or not to get it.tell him to clip and plug off the oem wire running to the D terminal.
you don't need to know anything about transmissions nor the e40d control units.just tell someone to run you a fused full battery power to that D terminal........and then have them show you,where they placed the fuse so you know.
all will be right as rain for probably less than $50 bucks.......less than $5 bucks if you do it.
i can't go to Germany to fix this for you,it's just too long of a swim.
Last edited:
Similar threads
