My E40D on my 1990 f250 7.3l does not want to lock up at the right times. While driving down the highway unloaded the TC will not lock up. Going up a hill, getting on the gas, or towing it will lockup and stay locked up. I dont understand what is going on.
E40D Not Locking Up
- Thread starter norve8c9
- Start date
turbo69
Innocent Bystander
Have you tried resetting the FIPL? Sounds like it may be time for a replacement FIPL. You may want to also try to pull codes just in case.
Click on the Diesel Files link in my sig and navigate to the 1992 folder, and then the DTC code prcedures link and DTC code definitions. This will let you pull the codes. Be sure to follow the directions to the tee for best results. Post back with code results, and maybe we can point you in the right direction.
As far as resetting the FIPL (some of you may recognize this):
Hook up the negative lead of the volt meter to the battery ground and the positiove lead to the center GY/W ( grey/white wire which is the FIPL signal wire, I use a paper clip up the side of the wire in the connector. The FIPL must be attached to the wiring harness. Engine low idle speed must be set to specs prior to adjusting the FIPL.
Engine off key on........
With a warm engine, key on, engine off measure the voltage at the GY/W wire, if adjustment is required loosen either the bracket with bolts or just use the slack in the Torx screw holes. Now gently rotate the FIPL until you get some where between 1.05V and 1.1V. then tighten the torx screws or bolts which ever you loosened ensuring no movement of volt setting . Rotate the throttle lever to WOT see if you get 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
The FIPL mounting bracket can be moved but ensure it is centered for a good rotation. Any adjustment should be made by only rotating the FIPL. If a new FIPL is required, check tang engagement as you take off the old FIPL and then make sure that the tangs in the new FIPL engage the throttle lever properly.
The closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, .........wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles, with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C
Click on the Diesel Files link in my sig and navigate to the 1992 folder, and then the DTC code prcedures link and DTC code definitions. This will let you pull the codes. Be sure to follow the directions to the tee for best results. Post back with code results, and maybe we can point you in the right direction.
As far as resetting the FIPL (some of you may recognize this):
Hook up the negative lead of the volt meter to the battery ground and the positiove lead to the center GY/W ( grey/white wire which is the FIPL signal wire, I use a paper clip up the side of the wire in the connector. The FIPL must be attached to the wiring harness. Engine low idle speed must be set to specs prior to adjusting the FIPL.
Engine off key on........
With a warm engine, key on, engine off measure the voltage at the GY/W wire, if adjustment is required loosen either the bracket with bolts or just use the slack in the Torx screw holes. Now gently rotate the FIPL until you get some where between 1.05V and 1.1V. then tighten the torx screws or bolts which ever you loosened ensuring no movement of volt setting . Rotate the throttle lever to WOT see if you get 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
The FIPL mounting bracket can be moved but ensure it is centered for a good rotation. Any adjustment should be made by only rotating the FIPL. If a new FIPL is required, check tang engagement as you take off the old FIPL and then make sure that the tangs in the new FIPL engage the throttle lever properly.
The closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, .........wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles, with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C
yARIC008
Drives really slow
I'd say adjust the TPS/FIPL and see what happens, if you can't get it narrowed down you could always install a manual lock up switch. Always fun.
I got a question on the TPS though. On mine, i have the idle voltage set at 1.059volts, and with the throttle at max it only goes to 3.4 volts. How is it supposed to get to 3.8?
I got a question on the TPS though. On mine, i have the idle voltage set at 1.059volts, and with the throttle at max it only goes to 3.4 volts. How is it supposed to get to 3.8?
argve
Resident Fruitcake
Well I believe that the 3.8v thing isn't really much of a concern as some make it out to be. I checked The E once or twice and it never fully reached the spec'd out voltages but ran great. I did typically set my closed voltage at anywhere between .95~1.2 Last time around it was a calibrated set up, I set it to 1.1 and did not like the shifts so I jumped out and whacked it with my multi-tool I keep strapped to my side - worked like a charm. Bumped it just enough to get my firm shifts like I perfer... Now I don't advise this type of "calibration" but sometimes it's just easier to do 
turbo69
Innocent Bystander
Another transfer of information...
Give this a shot.
Identify the Main electronic harness going to the trans. Above the trans connector about 4-5 inches locate the Purple wire with a white or Yellow stripe on it. This wire gets stained with oil so look closely. Simply cutting this wire will make the trans shift through all the gear ranges except for convertor lockup. The trans will at this point shift better then u have ever felt before because the gear ratios are all nicely matched by ford. Early lockup screws up this nice ratio thus this fix will eleminate this.
Now that the lockup wire is cut attatch 2 lengths of wire to the two wires that are now available at the trans (one length per each lead).
drill a small hole in the floorboard under the carpet to get the two wires up to your dash somewhere convient for a switch. At this point u need to do a test. Tie these two wires together. The trans should operate normally and lockup will come in as before you cut the wires. At this point all we created was a loop effectively lengthening the path of the convertor lock up circuit. Using your meter, and a second driver for the rig, get up to about 55 mph and hold steady. Set your meter to dc voltage on the 20 volt scale. Place your red lead to the two wires on your dash that are tied together and the black lead to the outer circle of your cigarette lighter (ground). At the speed of 55mph with the vehicle warm you should have a reading of about .5 to 3 volts. If you apply the brake and hold the speed at 55 you should see that voltage jump to 12-14 volts. If you let off the gas the voltage should be 12-14 volts. As you get back on the gas and return to 55 and level out you should see the voltage drop to .5-3.0 volts. With the vehicle in park the voltage should again be 12-14 volts. You will notice that when lockup engages the voltage drop occures and lockup takes place. We are going to manually drop this voltage by adding a ground which is effectively what the computer does to engage lockup. If these results are not typical of your vehicle STOP HERE!! Your harness may be different and this Mod will not apply to your vehicle.
Assuming your tests indicated the correct results and u have the two wires inside your vehicle, open up the two wires you tied together and place the red lead on one of those wires and the black lead to the cigarette lighter outer ring (ground). You should notice that one lead will produce 12-14 volts with engine on and in park and one wire of the two will produce .5-3 volts when measureing to ground. Note the High voltage lead. Take your switch and place the high voltage lead reading 12-14 volts on one of the switches poles and tighten it down. On the other side of the switch connect the remaining wire from the trans AND a jumper wire that is somewhere securely grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. This will in effect ground the second terminal to the chassis. The benefit of this arrangement will gives the driver total control of lockup. Notice that when the switch is open (off) the computer cannot engage lockup if it is undesireable to the driver and around town you will get nice crisp shifts that contain nice ratios as designed by ford. Once this switch is activated lockup will engange and HOLD for the duration the switch is on.
Give this a shot.
Identify the Main electronic harness going to the trans. Above the trans connector about 4-5 inches locate the Purple wire with a white or Yellow stripe on it. This wire gets stained with oil so look closely. Simply cutting this wire will make the trans shift through all the gear ranges except for convertor lockup. The trans will at this point shift better then u have ever felt before because the gear ratios are all nicely matched by ford. Early lockup screws up this nice ratio thus this fix will eleminate this.
Now that the lockup wire is cut attatch 2 lengths of wire to the two wires that are now available at the trans (one length per each lead).
drill a small hole in the floorboard under the carpet to get the two wires up to your dash somewhere convient for a switch. At this point u need to do a test. Tie these two wires together. The trans should operate normally and lockup will come in as before you cut the wires. At this point all we created was a loop effectively lengthening the path of the convertor lock up circuit. Using your meter, and a second driver for the rig, get up to about 55 mph and hold steady. Set your meter to dc voltage on the 20 volt scale. Place your red lead to the two wires on your dash that are tied together and the black lead to the outer circle of your cigarette lighter (ground). At the speed of 55mph with the vehicle warm you should have a reading of about .5 to 3 volts. If you apply the brake and hold the speed at 55 you should see that voltage jump to 12-14 volts. If you let off the gas the voltage should be 12-14 volts. As you get back on the gas and return to 55 and level out you should see the voltage drop to .5-3.0 volts. With the vehicle in park the voltage should again be 12-14 volts. You will notice that when lockup engages the voltage drop occures and lockup takes place. We are going to manually drop this voltage by adding a ground which is effectively what the computer does to engage lockup. If these results are not typical of your vehicle STOP HERE!! Your harness may be different and this Mod will not apply to your vehicle.
Assuming your tests indicated the correct results and u have the two wires inside your vehicle, open up the two wires you tied together and place the red lead on one of those wires and the black lead to the cigarette lighter outer ring (ground). You should notice that one lead will produce 12-14 volts with engine on and in park and one wire of the two will produce .5-3 volts when measureing to ground. Note the High voltage lead. Take your switch and place the high voltage lead reading 12-14 volts on one of the switches poles and tighten it down. On the other side of the switch connect the remaining wire from the trans AND a jumper wire that is somewhere securely grounded to the chassis of the vehicle. This will in effect ground the second terminal to the chassis. The benefit of this arrangement will gives the driver total control of lockup. Notice that when the switch is open (off) the computer cannot engage lockup if it is undesireable to the driver and around town you will get nice crisp shifts that contain nice ratios as designed by ford. Once this switch is activated lockup will engange and HOLD for the duration the switch is on.
Magoo
Blind Brain Surgeon
Similar trouble
I was looking for info regarding trouble I am having with the trans in my "new to me" truck. This thread was most helpfull. However I am having more trouble with the trans after replacing the TPS. I will wait to see if this thread is lost or if anyone here wishes to help then I will spend more time explaining the problems. I also have other non trans related issues. hope my wife does not read any of this. Its new, maybe 2 weeks, and there are a few problems but still I have waited to buy one of these trucks for over 5 years so i am happy just to have it warts and all. 91 F350 4x4, 7.3LIDI, E4OD, ATS Turbo that sounds like an airplane, 4" Rancho lift, 35" BFG MT and 190k.
I was looking for info regarding trouble I am having with the trans in my "new to me" truck. This thread was most helpfull. However I am having more trouble with the trans after replacing the TPS. I will wait to see if this thread is lost or if anyone here wishes to help then I will spend more time explaining the problems. I also have other non trans related issues. hope my wife does not read any of this. Its new, maybe 2 weeks, and there are a few problems but still I have waited to buy one of these trucks for over 5 years so i am happy just to have it warts and all. 91 F350 4x4, 7.3LIDI, E4OD, ATS Turbo that sounds like an airplane, 4" Rancho lift, 35" BFG MT and 190k.
turbo69
Innocent Bystander
Bring it on, Magoo.
magoo-Magoo said:
welcome to the basement
There's only so much that can be diagnosed over the internet, but you won't find a more experienced collective bunch anywhere else. And the wife thing, you're not alone in that dept either. I'd say the wives who support our truck habit is definitely rarer than the numbers who threaten on gettng rid of the truck when "yet another" thing goes bad. Warm up your keyboard, we're here to help
Magoo
Blind Brain Surgeon
Thanks-- Just got home from work, tonights my 12th anniversary---you can tell what my priorities are!!!! So needless to say I can not spend too much time here. I will check in tommorow night to lay out some of the symptoms. Again thanks. Magoo
turbo69
Innocent Bystander
Happy anniversary.
Magoo
Blind Brain Surgeon
.Ok , So I bought the truck couple weeks ago. Previous owner said he just put a new trans in it. Said he spent 4 grand on a custom built unit out of Portland Oregon and it was built specificly for towing. Said it was the second trans he has had to put in the truck and the owner before him had the trans replace once as well. Both previous owners towed big loads daily. Last owner has a excavator which on the trailer is about 22 to 25k. Long story short the truck or trans specificly cant handle that kind of daily abuse. So now I got it. Trans some days hits ******* all up shifts. Some days it shifts like any other truck, kinda mushy. To get going you have to "spool up" so to speak. The truck moves forward on level ground at about 1200 rpm. With the turbo wine it really sounds like the thing is winding up for take off. Since day one cruising at 25 to 30mph, (not acurate due to tire size) the truck would "hunt" for a gear, it shifted up and down rapidly. The previous owner mentioned the TPS and then I read this forum and so I checked it, actually it was the black unit so I just scraped it for a new one. New unit is within the parameters and it cured most of the hunt for gear thing. It still does it just not as often or as bad. Last thing now is I came down a old jeep road in low low and it was going great when all of a sudden it acted like it jumped into nuetral for a second. It did that twice over a few days wheeling. Oh yeah, speedo. The speedo is off I know but it bounces a good 5 to 7 mph. Going down long grades coasting with a load the speedo is smooth. Cruising along it jumps around, and when I grab a foot full a pedal it actually goes down 5 mph while the rpm guage goes way up. Not like the trans slips, just the speedo is wacked. Mileage on the truck does not seem so good but cant be too sure whgat it is becuse the tire size factor (roughly 2 tenths off) but with the speedo bounce i cant be sure . Roughs out at 10mpg. Hoped for much better.So Could that all be related? Crunch this around and let me know what you think. Magoo
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turbo69
Innocent Bystander
91, right?
Replace the speed sensor. 91 should be on the xfer case, at the rear of the tranny, or maybe on the top of the rear diff pumpkin. Remove all connectors carefully from tranny, clean lube and replace. Pull negative battery cable while doing this all, and then after your finished, reconnect the battery and drive. Check for symptoms. If they still appear, pull the DTC codes from the tranny and post back.
Good luck.
Replace the speed sensor. 91 should be on the xfer case, at the rear of the tranny, or maybe on the top of the rear diff pumpkin. Remove all connectors carefully from tranny, clean lube and replace. Pull negative battery cable while doing this all, and then after your finished, reconnect the battery and drive. Check for symptoms. If they still appear, pull the DTC codes from the tranny and post back.
Good luck.
I don't understand your problem but I just replaced my injection pump in my 89 E-350 with the 7.3L and E40D trans. My 3rd gear seems to be sluggish once it engages but seems fine around 35 to 40 mph. There's a website called dieselman's page which is very helpful on specs. and adjustments. The tps should read a voltage of 1 to 2 volts if I remember right at idle and 4.5 volts at full throttle. Check out the site for exact voltage outputs.
