Dually Refresh/Reseal/Build

88 Ford

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Its coming along man. You are getting to the home stretch now. It'll be worth it when you get to drive it! Can't wait to see it run bro!!!
 

91F350idi

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Baby steps of progress

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I got the flywheel and clutch on last night, and went ahead and mounted the transmission to the engine last night. I will set them in the frame together when the day finally comes. My head studs should be here soon, then hopefully it will come together quick. Today it was dark, cold, and raining when I got home, so no progress today. Tomorrow I plan on trying to do some more interior work. I need to run my wires and stuff for my gauges, and Im ready to get my seats out of storage and clean them up and throw them back in. Id like to "finish" the interior before everything else comes together so I dont get it running and get feelin frisky and take off down the road sitting on a 5 gallon bucket without gaugesLOL Also, id like to thank everybody that has been following this thread and for all of the comments. Not only has this site provided me with the courage to tear this truck down to make it how I wanted it, but has also helped to keep me motivated to keep going with it and not give up. So, thanks guys;Sweet
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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Keep up the good work bud, don't give up. BTW, don't forget to get a bottoming tap and clean out those head bolt holes if you haven't. the thread is 1/2-13 FYI.
 

subway

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awesome work, it gets hard when the project comes down to the little detials in the end! you are making me want to tear my truck down!
 

icanfixall

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Cleaning up the threads in the block when using studs is not really that important but its still something that should be done. Screwing a stud into a hole thats not clean down to the bottom thread wont change the torque on the stud because the torque is from the top fine threads winding down on the stud. Also its from the friction between the nut, washer and head so antisieze must be applied to all twisting and turning locations. Sometimes when a nut is tightened the washer under it turns with the nut and creates friction. So lube it all neatly. You will get a good torque that way..
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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Cleaning up the threads in the block when using studs is not really that important but its still something that should be done. Screwing a stud into a hole thats not clean down to the bottom thread wont change the torque on the stud because the torque is from the top fine threads winding down on the stud. Also its from the friction between the nut, washer and head so antisieze must be applied to all twisting and turning locations. Sometimes when a nut is tightened the washer under it turns with the nut and creates friction. So lube it all neatly. You will get a good torque that way..

in my case it was important so i could thread the studs all the way into the block.
 

91F350idi

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I did clean all the holes out very good already. I was amazed at the amount of stuff that came out of them. Before I decided to get studs, Ive already put my heads on with bolts, so they are still currently torqued down right now. I know, I shouldve made the decision for studs first, but didnt think that it was gonna be an option financially, so I used bolts. Then just a couple weeks after I bolted them on, I worked something out and decided that I wanted to go ahead and put studs in now while its out of truck. So, now I have a new set of head gaskets on the engine that are already torqued down. Ive read several different methods and opinions on how to handle this situation. Some say just take all the bolts out(in sequence of course) and dont move the head any, and put the studs in and do all the stud torqueing. Then ive read about swapping bolt for stud one-at-a-time in sequence then once they are all in, torque them per stud installation method. Or of course, there is the safest method of me just buying some more new gaskets, and considering it a semi-expensive lesson in making up my mind on what I want the first time:dunno So how do yall suggest I swap from bolts to studs without needing to replace my new head gaskets? or is that not a good idea? Hope to hear some more thoughts on this issue.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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honestly i would get new gaskets. it is a lot of work to put the thing back together and then have issues that could be prevented be spending ~$60-70 now.
 

91F350idi

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Oh, and 88 Ford, I went with the SMF conversion kit from Fort Wayne Clutch with the Kevlar Pilot. I called them and I got what I think was a pretty good deal on it. I already had a single mass flywheel, but they offered the whole kit with new flywheel for not much more than just the clutch kit alone. Cant wait to feel the difference from my old shaky DMF setup and this new setup:sly
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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like my dad said. yeah it's another $70 but it would cost more than that to put the whole thing back together and then have to tear it down again.
 

88 Ford

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That sounds like you got a good deal on your clutch. As far as the gasket goes, save yourself some time down the road and don't take the chance. Replace it and have some peace of mind. That is what I would do for sure.
 

91F350idi

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88 FORD, I went through my receipt pile the other day, and I found my Fort Wayne receipt for my clutch. It was $473.33 total. The Kevlar pilot was $53.33 of it, so I guess about $420 for just the clutch and flywheel. It came with all new bolts, throwout bearing, and of course the line up tool(which I felt was much better quality than some I have used in the past). I went with them because I read lots of good reviews about them, and I experienced very good and friendly customer service on the phone while ordering it, I thought the price was good, they didnt charge me shipping, and I had it within just a couple days. Everything was packaged neatly and with plenty of insulation to keep from damage during shipping. I obviously havent ran the clutch yet, but so far I would highly recommend Fort Wayne Clutch to anybody in the market for one. If you are looking for one, find their Ebay store and call them about matching that price with the free shipping. I think I did something like that and it saved me some money.
 

91F350idi

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And I found every reciept I could from the time that I bought this truck, and then wrote down all the Craigslist parts that Ive bought for it, and this is what Ive came up with on what I had spent since Day 1 Bought the truck for $1800, then over a couple years spent another $1850 on things like tires, leather seats, fiberglass running boards, cd player, fifth wheel hitch, nice bed,etc. So before I tore it down for this remodel, I had $3650 in it total. Since I have tore it down, my receipts add up to $2600. That includes everything. So that puts me at a total of $6,250 in this truck, and that includes EVERYTHING that I have ever spent on it. I keep ALL reciepts, even on services like exhaust shop charges or machine shop costs. So, thats really not as much as I thought it was at all. Several of the things in my signature I got from buying trucks with parts I wanted and then parting them out. It was ALOT of work, but thats how I got my ALCOA's, my turbo, the 96 front clip, my exhaust, my hydroboost stuff, and some smaller stuff. Then I always made more money on the rest of the truck than what I paid, resulting in free parts for my truck, and some profit in the bank. If I wouldve had to buy all that stuff, my total cost of everything would have been significantly higher.
 

88 Ford

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That's not bad for what you have done to it at all. Smart buying is always key with stuff like that.
 

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