Dropping Fuel Tanks

[beretzs]

Hey, I think I am going to drop the tanks on the big truck today and see if I can figure out why my fuel gauges have quit working. Any tips, tricks, anything?? I would also like to extend the pickups, as I am sure they have broken off. So, if you guys have any ideas send em my way. After yesterdays episode, it would be nice to know if I have any fuel in the truck. Scotty

 

[towcat]

scotty-
extending the pickups is a good idea. But as far as trying to fix the senders, that in my opinion, is a loosing proposition. Plated contacts is a lunch item for diesel feul. I just drive by ODO as a result. If you stick to a fillup and reset regemin(sp), you will never have an issue.

 

[Pacific]

I do the same I use the trip counter I never trust fuel gauges mine works but I have had many trucks that did not. When ever I see I'am getting around 150km (93 miles) its time for fuel which is around 30 dollars. I never really let my fuel run low why suck up all the crap and crud off the bottom of the tank.

 

[beretzs]

Yeah, I am with you guys, and that is what I have been doing ever since I got the truck, I usually run the first tank until I feel it studder then switch over to a fresh tank, then refill the empty one. I guess if I cannot get the senders to work properly, just getting the pickups working correctly would be a good job. I almost have the front skid plate off. This is a job when it really stinks to have your truck on 37's with 6"s of lift. I think I am going to let the air outta the tires. Can't hardly reach the upper bolts, and I am 6'5 with fairly long arms. Man, sometimes stock would be nice. Scotty

 

[towcat]

scotty-
be real careful. those skid plates are deceptively light looking. dunno what kind of steel it is, but its alot heavier than it looks.

 

[beretzs]

Hey, I have the front tank out, have not pulled the sending unit yet, but what else could I do while I have the tanks dropped, that is easily done and FREE?? I see there is a long black plastic tube that looks like it goes all the way from the fuel cap to tank. Can I delete that, or is a needed item? I high pressure air sprayed around the tank sending unit, so I don't get alot of dirt into the tank before I pop it open. The skid plate was not too bad. But the tank probably has about 3-4 gallons in it, but yesterday, that was the tank that seemed empty, so hopefully at a minimum I can get the pickup tube installed. Scotty

 

[towcat]

that Long black tube was one of Ford's ideas to keep the feul from foaming up as bad. We all know how well that idea works. i usually will get rid of the pickup "foot" and use a little longer hose so it will curve along the bottom of the tank a little, that way if the tank does take a lower hit, the pickup hole won't be plugged off if it was just pointing straight down.

 

[beretzs]

I just added a pieve of longer fuel line that curves to the back of the tank. I put a V notch at the end of the hose, so it cannot suck to the bottom of the tank. Wished I knew how to test to see if the unit was bad or not. I should be able to cut that long black hose out of the filling neck? Correct? Heck, I will be able to use the last 3 gallons in the tank now. Scotty

 

[beretzs]

Soooo, can I just that long black filler neck hose out, at least most of it? Is it going to affect anything. Would be nice to have a little easier fillups. No idea if the sending units are bad. I am going to clean them up and maybe that may do something. If not, I gained being able to get most of the fuel outta the tanks. I drained what was "left" in the tanks and filled a 5 gallon jug. Hopefully this will alleviate the problem. Scotty

 

[Pacific]

You actually mean you got the straps that hold the tank in loose and undone without them falling apart

Around here when ever we have to do fuel tank repairs or dropping a fuel tank 99% of the time you will need to buy new tank straps etc. The road salt eats the crap out of them and of course you can't get a gas axe under there to nip the bolts out.

If I was really having fuel tank problems I would really consider having a heavier custom made tank built that bolts in where the rear factory tank mounts. That way you can have a tank that holds more fuel its stronger plus you can use a regular sender and a better fuel P/U.

My uncle had a tank made for his truck gasser he has had the tank for over 15-20 years he builds up old 66-79 Fords and keeps transfering the tank to the next truck he builds after he wears the previous truck out.

 

[beretzs]

IT is a California truck, not one speck of rust on the bottom side of the truck. Really nice too, I remember trying to do anything on my old mans stuff, since we are in the Northeast everything was always rusted and rotted. Matter of fact, my tank straps are in perfect condition.

I did get the tank back in, got rid of the long filler neck deal. The rubber hose on the inside of the actual filler tube. I just cut it off right below the cap. Everything went back together really easy. Had to do a little acrobatics in order to hold the tank up and get the straps lined up, and the same to get the bolts started on the skid plate, but used my knees to push up on it while I started the nuts, prety easy actually.

Do have one problem though, I let the air out of the tires, and I missed two of them before they let too much air out and came off of the bead. Any idea how to get them back on without having to take them to a tire shop? I was thinking of jacking up the truck and apply air and watering the bead so maybe if I pull/push on them enough I can get them to take a seat. No idea, that is how I usually do it on the jeep, but these wheels and tires are a might bigger. Scotty

 

[Pacific]

To reseat the bead you will have to take the wheels off the truck then lay them on a flat surface like concrete with stem side up. Take the core out of the stem but don't loose it or buy couple new cores they are cheap. You will need a air compressor with some good volume with 3/8s air line.

You can try a ratchet strap around the middle of the tire and tighten it up till the sidewalls bulge then put the air to it. You may have to smear the beads up with some vaseline proper tire grease is better but its something you don't have smooth hand cleaner will do aswell.

You can try the ether trick but you may blow up a tire if you do it wrong

When we seat 11R-22.5 and 11R-24.5 tires we use a shop made bead seater out of a propane tank and a snorkle that shoots a high volume amount of air into the tire. Some tires are stubborn to seat so we also use a tool called a safety seater its a ring that clamps on the rim.

You should mix up some lube too out of sunlight dish soap and water check for bead leaks etc.

As for owning a rust free truck you are a lucky *** of a ***** every IDI truck from 84 to 92 has rust around here.

 

[Mikes91]

Weren't we just talking about NOT working on the truck for awhile... gotta keep your wife happy...

Besides, you know that if you work on something trying to fix it, something else will invariably break, right?

 

[WPineF]

DON"T CUT THE HOSE!!! unless you are going to do the whole mod to the filler neck. you think it fills slow now I did the back tank on mine during the big tank install and had to get another filler neck to calm it back down. don't have the room to run a hose from the top of the new tank with how it sits up close to the bottom of the bed.

Dave

 

[towcat]

scotty-
if it doesn't work, I can send you another filler assy. I got a whole bunch of them. Just pay for shipping an i'll be happy.