Doopy the Plow Truck gets a Cummins 4BT

[Darrin Tosh]

Couple of update pics:

Got the new turbo oil feed line this morning, rebuilt alternator, got the intake and valve covers on. I also got the silicone boots (not shown) that I will need for the turbo to intake pipe.

so we are making some progress,..

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[Darrin Tosh]

Ok I have a Fuel Pump Question, Just looking ahed to see what I will have to do,.

From my research it appears that my 1988 has a low pressure electric fuel pump in the tank, compared to the newer ones that has a higher pressure pump. Then there is a High Pressure pump/tank switcher on the frame. Both of these units have been replaced within the last year or so.

My question is can I remove the High Pressure pump/tank switcher, and just run the low pressure pump in the tank, bypassing the mechanical pump on the 4bt? From what I have read it doesn't work on the newer years with the high pressure in tank pump but should work on mine.

For now I only need one tank, and would prefer not to drop the tanks and remove the new pump.

If this works what to I use for a block off plate for the Cummins?

Thanks for any input!

 

[Darrin Tosh]

The Postman brought me what I have been waiting on:

My Power Fuel Pin and 3200 Governor Spring!

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Now I can get them installed in the pump, do the tweaks to it and get it installed.

 

[Ididriver]

looking good.
always love seing your builds

 

[Darrin Tosh]

looking good.
always love seing your builds

Thanks! Hope this is the last one for a while,...


Update for tonight,.

Tore the pump apart to install the 3200 Gov Spring, what did I find,...It Already HAD A 3200 gov spring!,... oh well,..

I got it back together with the Fuel Pin installed, turned the star wheel down 1 1/4 turn.

So it is painted and ready to install tomorrow,..hope to have the motor all back together in the next day or so.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Got a few more things done today.

Pump reassembled and installed, as well as the Vacume and Power Steering Pump:

You can see in this shot, I also got the connections for the aftermarket Water temp gauge, (back of the head) and Oil Pressure Gauge, (next to the fuel pump hole)

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I also got the new seal in the front cover, installed and painted it it today. Ill have pics of that tomorrow.

Here is a tip: Whenever you do the front cover of a Cummins, the bolts have to go in the same spot that they came out of, So when I disassembled the front cover, I drew the front cover in a piece of cardboard, drilled holes in the appropriate spot, and stuck the bolts in the right spot. Makes it easy to get the bolts back in the right spot.

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I also got the fuel pump painted and installed then started to work on the injection lines, getting them cleaned up and painted.

If I get the injectors soon I would like to fire it up on the stand before I put it in the truck.

More to come tomorrow!

 

[ocnorb]

Can't wait to hear how it turns out.

Always wanted to do a 4BT in a older 4x4, but finding those motors is pretty $$$ around here.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

looking good so far.

how much pressure does the rear pump put out? and what is required for the motor?

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Can't wait to hear how it turns out.

Always wanted to do a 4BT in a older 4x4, but finding those motors is pretty $$$ around here.

Thanks, Cant wait myself! It is hard to find a good deal on a 4bt for sure!

looking good so far.

how much pressure does the rear pump put out? and what is required for the motor?

Thanks, Good talking to you today!

The VE Pumps only need 15 PSI Max, The mechanical pump for the motor is just a stock one, Same one that I still run on Ed.

The in tank pumps on Droopy are under 15 psi.. I am putting the mech pump on the motor for now to run it on the stand when it is ready.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

I have a Concern,..

Sitting at home relaxing, got me thinking bout the timing marks on the injection pump, so I did some more research.

When I took the pump off, I locked the timing tab in the motor so the crank to cam timing marks are dead on. So I removed the pump gear and took the pump out.

I know that I didn't turn the pump or the motor when I had it out, so I installed the pump gear back on the keyway. The research that I did earlier I found that if it has a keyway, the timing marks on the pump arent needed. Well I think that is wrong.

I took this pic today before I reinstalled the front cover:

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As you can see the cam gear mark is there but the letters are just to the left of that mark.

Did I screw up and will I have to take it back apart and reallign the gear pump?

Thanks,..

 

[Darrin Tosh]

On the upside, I received my Cobra Head Intake elbow and was able to make it work on the bigger turbo. I just had to trim about 1/2 inch of the turbo side and it squeezes in there!

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[Darrin Tosh]

Well I decided to pull back apart and recheck the timing, According to the reaserch that I did, I need to set the timing to the "F" mark.

Got it done and back together today:

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[Darrin Tosh]

So then tonight, Lori is out of town and the kids were busy so I decided to head to the shop for the evening and get some more done on the motor.

I found this hole:

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It looksd suspiciously like a tach sender location, Well sure enough that is what it is for. I happen to have a tach sender from my failed attempt to get the factory tach working on Big Ed, so I decided to install it and wll give it a try:

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Got the starter painted and installed, anlong with the motor mounts and some other misc stuff.

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Overall a productive evening.

 

[papastruck]

Looking sweet. Dying to do a 4bt swap in my '73 half ton but haven't been able to find any cheap ones.

 

[Darrin Tosh]

Looking sweet. Dying to do a 4bt swap in my '73 half ton but haven't been able to find any cheap ones.

Thanks! Yea that would be sweet, The problem is that Cheap Ones dont exist!

Every once in a while you can pick up a good Ford Bread Truck for $2,000 to $2500. You can pull the motor and scrap the aluminum box and get most of your money back. That is about the cheapest way to do it.