diesel run away tonight while going down the road

[warhog]

Alright, I got the truck back about a week ago. Jasper was great and handled everything very responsibly. It turned out to be an IP issue, no money out of my pocket and i'm happyish.

The past few days i've been checking on any sort of kinks i may have. The block heater doesn't work, i bought it brand new to install in the jasper engine so that was a waste because i'm not about to drain all my coolant out to replace it right now. So without the block heater, i'm relying on glow plugs. Everyone here brags about how well theres starts and runs in the cold temperatures. However, when mine is sitting in the mid 30s, it doesn't want to start. Glow plugs kick on with about 10 seconds or so, and it tries to start but usually sounds like it's choking for fuel then stalls. What gives? Plugs are new, solenoids new, controllers new, IP is new, oil, filters, etc.

Also, I'm only getting about 150miles average out of either tank. I drove to work today (about 40 minute drive) went through a quarter tank. Came home, went through another quarter. I don't think i'm actually sucking up that much fuel so is it just a cluster issue or tank related? It's getting to be a pain filling up every single morning.

 

[Hydro-idi]

The shower heads have broken off in your tanks. Same issue with my rig. You would need to either drop tanks or remove bed to fix that issue.
As far as your starting issue, something isn't right. You shouldn't need a block heater in 30ish temp. I am guessing all of your glowplugs are new. After it starts, do you hear the GPC clicking (cycling glowplugs)? If not, you are having a controller and/or solenoid issue. You could also have some sort of an air intrusion. Check for any traces of fuel leaking. Do you have a fresh fuel filter??? If not, start by replacing that.

 

[warhog]

Poop.

Is there a technical part name for these shower heads? Pulling the dually bed does not sound exciting, i'll drop the tanks lol.


Yes, the glow plugs (including glow plug light) does cycle on for a few seconds after it's running and warming up once, maybe twice sometimes. Glow plugs are new yes, as well as the fuel filter. I'll take a looksie for fuel leaks, thanks.

 

[Hydro-idi]

You can just use black fuel hose at the end of the fuel sender to pick up the fuel. Works quite well for lots of members on here.
When you try and start your rig for the first time in the morning, does it start then stall then have a hard time starting back up again??? Something is not right with your starting situation. I'm thinking awful hard to try and figure this one out .

 

[Hydro-idi]

Check your return lines too and make sure all your injector lines are tight. Check the lift pump and lines going to it as well. Sometimes even new lift pumps can leak diesel fuel out of the weep hole...which means lift pump crapped out.

 

[warhog]

It'll start up within MAYBE 2 seconds of cranking, its dead near instant but it bucks and chokes like it's starving for fuel, then craps out. cycle plugs again, starts up runs rough for a few seconds then all systems go as normal, high idle for a while then kicks down normal like it should and runs like a top to work. Guess it wouldn't hurt to swap out the fuel filter again.

 

[Hydro-idi]

That sounds like a classic air intrusion issue in your fuel system.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I would also check the fuel supply line that goes from the fuel filter head to the center of the injection pump. Maybe the shop did not replace those olives in that hard line, which can cause an air intrusion and is often overlooked. If you put your finger right below the feed line that goes on IP and it is wet, you have bad olive that needs to be replaced. Just throwing ideas out there for you

 

[warhog]

hey i appreciate it, really. Not that I know every part you are referring to, i'm gonna look into it and check everything you are suggesting on saturday.

 

[Hydro-idi]

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Fuel Line olives

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Lift pump

These are common areas where an air intrusion could happen. Of course, there is many more but hopefully these pics explain what I was talking about.

 

[Greg5OH]

deleted.

 

[subway]

are any of your injectors wet around the cap area for the return lines, it does sound like you have air intrusion.

if you do remove the shower head and replace i with fuel line, make sure you cut a v notch in the bottom of the hose. you dont want that guy sucking down solid against the bottom of the tank.

 

[hesutton]

So it was an IP problem. Likely someone didn't install the top cover properly. Something Mel warns about when pulling the top off the IP.

Heath

 

[Black dawg]

Did you get a complete engine again or just an injection pump

As much as a job like this costs, the shop needs to make sure your new motor runs like new. They should deal with these starting issues. Did you provide the engine or did the shop.

 

[vegas39]

The shower heads have broken off in your tanks. Same issue with my rig. You would need to either drop tanks or remove bed to fix that issue.
As far as your starting issue, something isn't right. You shouldn't need a block heater in 30ish temp. I am guessing all of your glowplugs are new. After it starts, do you hear the GPC clicking (cycling glowplugs)? If not, you are having a controller and/or solenoid issue. You could also have some sort of an air intrusion. Check for any traces of fuel leaking. Do you have a fresh fuel filter??? If not, start by replacing that.

DONT need to drop the front tank or remove the bed to fix the showerhead, not sure about the rear tank though.
I just fixed the showerhead issue on a truck last weekend and it was actually a pretty quick job.