dead in the driveway

[Shadetreemechanic]

There were lots of pieces that almost fell out. but I caught them before they could. The pin I was referring to is a spring pin that is also shown in the pics that h20 sent. The inlet screen is completely clogged with what I believe is saturated fat, and we have had no luck getting it clean. I found one for 4.95 at a diesel shop and will pick it up this afternoon.
Maybe we can get it back together this weekend.
Thanks for the help.

 

[h2odrx]

Well i took mine to the shop that is 15 min from me today, they told me what i didn't want to hear. locked up and shaft is broke. $385 for a rebuilt one plus $385 core. but he did go in the back and pull one out that he would give me for a core!

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Any idea what caused it to lockup. I've only heard of that from running wvo.

 

[Agnem]

...We tried the cool water on the injection pump and jumped the fuel shutoff solinoid to the battery, but got no change.

There is your answer right there. The water is what killed it. The filter was plugged, which is why it wouldn't start, and it was a good pump. Not a worn one. The water trick is very risky unless your sure the pump is worn, or your ready to sacrifice it to the IP gods.

 

[h2odrx]

Any idea what caused it to lockup. I've only heard of that from running wvo.

A bunch of things i think? No fuel water seperator for a while, old fuel with too much water, WVO not filtered enough? ULSD added in on top of all this? And just about everthing the PO told me has been wrong.

 

[ttman4]

pig snot & greasy jello

It's amazing how one item of omission can change a diagnosis.
You figured out your problem already. Feul system contambination.
before getting nuts with the inlet screen, pull the top cover and check for solids in the feul well. If there is, your pump is done. Improper mix and/or improper purge and shutdown procedures of other feuls with diesel is the biggest killer of IP's.

Ditto on that one item of omission. IP may or maynot be done at this point, but it's headed for "done."

Shadetree, I don't know what kind, or how elaborate the WVO set-up is on that rig, or how the WVO is filtered & processed before poured in fuel tank, but the "shaturated Fats" you refer to is saturated alright. Greasy Jello, Crisco, bacon snot, cow tallow, yogart, cholesterol laden taterchips, puddin, & got BLUEBONNET-ON-IT too!
When WVO is properly strained & filtered & heated up enough to thin viscosity before passing thru filters & IP, then all the above listed ingredients will be liguidified & it flows thru the fuel system & IP OK.
As TC stated,

Improper mix and/or improper purge and shutdown procedures of other feuls with diesel is the biggest killer of IP's.

If WVO isn't purged from IP etc before shutdown, (need 2 tank setup, 1 diesel, 1 WVO) then next morning in the cool, crispy, frisky feeling twilight when 'ya go to crank that rig, everything in filter, fuel lines, IP, etc is snotty, clabbered, jelloed-up "Saturated Fats" & don't want to flow & be pumped....& what you found in inlet screen is in IP, lines, & injectors.
Kinda ******* IP & injectors....& engine innards.
Purge that thing before shutdown....run diesel thru it a few miles before shutdown. Then it needs to be cranked on diesel & warm the WVO up bigtime before flipping over to WVO.

I don't know about "precipitate" reaction with some ULSD. The diesel should mix with WVO when it gets together.

Another tip or hint:
1. I don't know, but i've been told that if 'ya get to mixing WMO or some of those things, with WVO it tends to turn to black or discolored clabbered buttermilk in fuel filters....thus shortening filter life. I would think WMO would mix with diesel better.
2. I also don't know, but I'm convinced that folks running WVO & such should have spare IP & set of injectors laying round....just in case. I don't believe that all the emulsified water & moisture & other scary ingredients can totally be eliminated from WVO (at least by the Average Joe)...thus shortening IP & injector life. (however at diesel prices several pumps can be bought)
3. Plugging up block heater will heat coolant & block some, but won't heat IP enough to liquidify that Pig Snot that's setting in the IP if 'ya don't purge before shutdown.

Just some of my $.00002 cents for what it's worth

 

[RLDSL]

It sounds like you aren't preparing your veg well enough for putting in the truck.

If you settle and filter WVO well enough ( and you start with good liquid oil to begin with, if it's got a bunch of meat solids or drainage, it will be more likely to clog, the stuff from fish houses is great. Lots of crumbs to filter, but no fatty solids ), it won't mess things up. I've not done a conversion on this truck yet, but I've got a Volvo diesel running a one tank setup and I start cold on veg 3 seasons, and blend it with diesel or unleaded in the winter time and haven't had any problems with things getting gunked up, but I do pre filter my veg to 2 micron and run it through water block filter before it ever goes in the tank , plus I cold filter it which catches any of that nasty stuff before it goes in the tank ( it makes for a lot of filter changing in the process setup, but I'd rathr be doing that that fixing a vehicle on the side of the road ), and it comes out looking cleaner than new veg oil , then there's an extra pre filter seperator on the car just for giggles. I used to have a mercedes with a one tank setup and no problems there either.

I've never had any fatty clogging issues as of yet. A little overkill on the veg prep goes a long way

I'm getting ready to get the truck setup for veg ( have to go 2 tank on these things, Stanadyne pumps are to wimpy for veg that is anything less than good and hot ). I don't foresee any problems.

--------Robert

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Funny thing is, my 94 has an ip that is really ready to be junked. So any fuel that is questionable we dump in it(with no problems). I am sure it was a settling issue, though, My brother needed to tow a trailer across the state and didn't want to buy diesel so we through a batch together without letting it settle after blending. That seems to be the key. Let it settle for several days and then triple filter, twice before blending with fuel or kerosine and then again after 24-48 hours of settling and then I drain off the first gallon which generally has all the precipitate in it.
We got the ip back together and it still wasn't delivering fuel to the injectors. We pulled the pump and lifted the top. Found the solinoid to be working and the shaft turning, but the fuel is not getting into the ip. I used my mityvac to pull vaccum on the fuel inlet and it holds it for quite a while.
We are going to take it in and see if we can have it bench tested. I think somthing is gunked up internally and it will need a rebuild.
I will start making biodiesel again once the weather cools and that should solve all problems.

 

[ttman4]

Robert, Ditto, Ditto, Ditto on everything you said! You're right on.

Settle, settle, settle, then strain & filter & filter some more! Or strain first, then settle & filter. May take time at first, but saves lots time later on roadside in butt-deep snow, minus-100degF, & 100mph winds....at midnight & broke flashlite!
I may embellish some of my descriptions sometimes, like Pig Snot, cholesterol laden thingies, & such, but these are some of the things I've seen in past with some local folks troubles.

"Seasonal" (as I call it) Cold filtering does go a long way on obtaining clear, pourable oil to fit the current seasonal ambient temps.

Pouring thru several pair of Hanging bluejeans before prefiltering seems to catch lots of Crisco & Pig Snot.
And then couple other filters added onto rig between tanks & last filter helps too.

Incidentally, picking up oil round town WILL tell 'ya where best healthy low cholesterol laden food is served, or not served.
I watched oil picked up at Arby's (sp) Burger once on a hot August day.....concrete must'a been 500degF, oil got spilled & within 30 sec. it had turned into "Crisco!"

Mr Arby probably read this & hunt me down & stomp my butt!!

 

[yARIC008]

I watched oil picked up at Arby's (sp) Burger once on a hot August day.....concrete must'a been 500degF, oil got spilled & within 30 sec. it had turned into "Crisco!"

Haha... mmmmm!

and... he's gonna wait till it gets cold to make biodiesel... I'm hoping when it gets cold my biodiesel doesn't gel

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

I wait till it gets cold to make bio cause I blend based on specific gravity @ 65 degrees. Once the weather starts turning colder I have to dilute the veggie so much biodiesel becomes cheaper. During the summer blending is much cheaper. Not to mention blending is much easier.
FYI my biodiesel gels at 28 degrees farenheit, but if you cut it with diesel 25% it will go down to about 10 depending on the source oil.

 

[rkpatt]

Just to add one more thing here - Another thing to check is the outlet at the top of the IP. Remove the brass fitting and then remover the steel fitting . If the screen in the steel fitting is clogged then the IP won't deliver fuel .