I just looked at the wires going into the valve covers, and while nothing externally looked burnt, and I didn't smell anything (although the truck has been sitting for some time, so I'm not sure if I'll smell anything or not), but I did see some oil in the 3 of the connectors. I don't think I'm supposed to see that, so I think I do need to replace the valve cover gaskets. Any recommendations on where to go for the gaskets?
Crank no Start
- Thread starter schoelta
- Start date
Be carefull where you get the gaskets.fel-pro,ford or international only!!!
Id pull the covers and check the wiring.this is such a common issue on the 94.5-97s that sell everything as a kit.
I dont know what values you should get when checking cuz ive never had to get that deep.its always been burnt wiring or bad idm.
Id pull the covers and check the wiring.this is such a common issue on the 94.5-97s that sell everything as a kit.
I dont know what values you should get when checking cuz ive never had to get that deep.its always been burnt wiring or bad idm.
Ive had good and bad luck with dorman.as long as the gaskets are a good brand,you should be ok.
Replace the glow plugs as well.they are the cause of melted wiring and dead 1000.00 dollar idms.MOTORCRAFT PLUGS ONLY!!!!!
Replace the glow plugs as well.they are the cause of melted wiring and dead 1000.00 dollar idms.MOTORCRAFT PLUGS ONLY!!!!!
A P0603 can also be caused by a chip in the pcm. Hard wired chip not a programmer.
Chase
I have put a couple sets of dormans on, I dont care for them, too cheaply made for me. Also the first set I ever put on had an internal short in the UVC harness.
Chase
Here's an update. I got the new PCM installed, and at first I had no codes. The P0603 never came back, and even after running the buzz test a few time, the P1293, P1294, and P1274 never came back. However the truck still didn't start. I did check the HPOP reservoir, and it was pretty low, so I added some oil to it, but it still didn't start. After come more cranking, a P0344 appeared for the cam sensor, so I am going to replace that tomorrow. Also a P1212 showed up as well. Any ideas on that code? Also FYI, I looked at the scan data while cranking, and my fuel pressure only goes up to around 410-430psi with the IPR at 55%. Is this where they should be?
You got the cps code cuz it cranked but didnt start.
The pressures you are looking is oil pressure to the injectors,not fuel.needs 500Psi to fire an injector.430 psi is low but could be due to slow cranking.
You need to see if its smoking out the tailpipe while cranking.
The pressures you are looking is oil pressure to the injectors,not fuel.needs 500Psi to fire an injector.430 psi is low but could be due to slow cranking.
You need to see if its smoking out the tailpipe while cranking.
I looked and didn't see any smoke out the tail pipe. However, I was looking at my wires, because when I was spraying brake clean to clean oil I spilled filling the HPOP, a mouse decided to jump out at me. I found the red and Y/R wires to the IPR to be rubbed through and touching. I read somewhere that if the PCM doesn't see the voltage drop on the Y/R it won't fire the injectors, so I am now trying to find the pigtail for the IPR.
If all you need is the plug and a little wire to splic it with,the injectors use the same connector.
I found a few other wires that didn't look good around the fuel filter housing, so I ordered the harness from FORD. It only cost $73 which isn't bad for a wire harness. I will install it tomorrow when if comes in.
I did finally get the truck started, but had to use starting fluid. It was good to hear the engine run. I think I may have bad fuel, as the truck had been sitting for some time before I bought it. I took a sample, and it smells like paint thinner. So tomorrow I am also going to drain the tanks, and put some FRESH fuel in. I'm thinking that may also have something to do with why it was cranking so long. I had no codes, and the fuel pressure was building, but it still wouldn't fire off. Shot a but a starting fluid in and she started, and ran by herself. I was going to drive the truck, but then found I had a busted steel line, but at least if runs and moves.
While the truck was running I performed the KOER test, and the only code was a P0476, something about Exhaust Backpressure Regulator Malfunction. Could there be something that stuck from sitting and not running for so long?
I did finally get the truck started, but had to use starting fluid. It was good to hear the engine run. I think I may have bad fuel, as the truck had been sitting for some time before I bought it. I took a sample, and it smells like paint thinner. So tomorrow I am also going to drain the tanks, and put some FRESH fuel in. I'm thinking that may also have something to do with why it was cranking so long. I had no codes, and the fuel pressure was building, but it still wouldn't fire off. Shot a but a starting fluid in and she started, and ran by herself. I was going to drive the truck, but then found I had a busted steel line, but at least if runs and moves.
While the truck was running I performed the KOER test, and the only code was a P0476, something about Exhaust Backpressure Regulator Malfunction. Could there be something that stuck from sitting and not running for so long?
That exhaust backpressure code is caused by the backpressure sensor on the front of the engine (EPRS), you'll see a tube from it running down to exhaust pipe. They get plugged up with carbon, remove the small pipe and clean out the carbon, use a piece of weed wacker on a drill motor, clean the sensor also, be very careful doing that, it has a small diaphram inside, use PB Blaster on it to soften the carbon or something like it, rupture the diaphram, you'll need a new one. There is no need to add oil to the HPOP reservior, it's continually filled by the low pressure oil pump.
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I actually drove the truck around for a bit, after I repaired the broken steel line. When I got into the throttle, it seemed to act as if it was shifting, but it wasn't. The RPMS would fluctuate as they increased while accelerating, and I could still feel the transmission shift through the gears. I think I may have had some air in the high pressure oil system. By the time I got it back to the shop where I work, it was running and accelerating just fine. Had good power. For the bad news, I was changing the fuel filter, and noticed that the heater was not plugged in on the outside, and there was no wire on the inside. I went to remove the center tube, and SNAP. I found out the hard way that it was reverse thread. Kind of stupid that NO repair manual I have access to has a note that states it's reverse thread. I had to order one from FORD. $65 for a small piece of plastic. I did check International, and it was going to take 3-5 days to get it. Even though it was cheaper, the shipping would have brought it to almost the cost of FORD's to have it overnighted, so I just went with FORD for tomorrow morning.
Get that fixed, and I think my truck, that was purchased NOT RUNNING, will be good to go.
Thanks for all the help, and I am sure I'll need much more since I am a newbie to the PDS's.
Get that fixed, and I think my truck, that was purchased NOT RUNNING, will be good to go.
Thanks for all the help, and I am sure I'll need much more since I am a newbie to the PDS's.
Ya don't give your location, but if it gets cold there and you need the fuel filter heater, IH has a new improved one that won't short out for $26, lost the P/N, easy install.
I sell IDM's, Valve cover harnesses, sensors and the like. If you want to support a fellow member, give me a call. http://conestogadiesel.com
