coolant filter seems like a pita.

[FORDF250HDXLT]

God do I hate the term "cheap insurance!" Not singling you out for abuse here, Dunk, but often, it's just cover terminology for the wasteful, feel good things we do to our trucks without logical justification or a demonstrated need. Given the relatively low cost of adding a coolant filter, it's probably a bit closer to being true than some other times it's used.

how about inexpensive insurance.

 

[The Warden]

Thinking logically, once you get the casting sand out of the cooling system, there are few (pretty much no) contamination inputs to add anything harmful. Akin to an automatic transmission, the most important time is right after the build, or rebuild. Once the system is clear, there is nothing left in a closed system to cause a problem, assuming you installed good water.

...

The second place to research is, what are the benefits? What difference does it really make if a little contamination is flowing around the system? What fails as a result? Water pump? Maybe but there are many other nonrelated causes of water pump failure, many of them connected with neglect, past or present, and many not related to the coolant at all. Or out of balance fans. Or belts too tight. Or too loose. Has someone run tests to see what level of coolant contamination is required to cause early water pump failure, then done tests to see how long a water pump with last with perfectly clean coolant?

Probably the best part of the idea is that it's a pretty cheap addition. I'd make it a priority on a new truck or one that is fresh from a rebuild or a repair involving something that can allow contamination to enter the system (chunks of RTV, rust flakes, metal, gasket pieces, etc.). If the truck's had a couple of coolant flushes (good one, not half-assed) it would be less a priority.

As the person who wrote the article in question, I agree with what Jim said here.

I've been running a coolant filter since 2005. I did a top-end rebuild on my engine and replaced the radiator in 2004, and I was worried that I might have missed something in the cooling system. I was originally going to put in some sort of inline filter as a temporary measure to catch any remaining stuff, but when it was pointed out to me how cheap putting a "true" coolant filter on was, I figured I may as well go for it. And, with it in place, I didn't see a real reason to take it off.

Due to time constraints, I've never cut apart a coolant filter to see how much has been filtered out since the initial filtering period...I've been in the habit of replacing the coolant filter whenever I replace the fuel filter. I will note that, after 10 years, the inside of the radiator that I can see with the cap removed looks just like it did when it was brand-new. I don't know how much of that's due to the coolant filter and how much's due to the Cat ELC that I'm running...and I haven't had a reason to open up any other part of my coolant system except when I replaced the block heater last year, and what I could see then looked pretty good.

As Jim pointed out, if the system hasn't been molested and if all of the block casting sand has been thoroughly filtered out, there isn't really a reason to run a coolant filter unless you're doing it for SCA's or unless you're super-**** (which I openly admit to being ). However, if major cooling system work's been done, having the filter there to clean out any debris that might remain would be a good idea, and then you may as well leave it on (it's not really hurting anything, and it's already there and the money's already been spent; replacement filters are cheap).

JMHO...

 

[PwrSmoke]

Well, nice to hear my logic passed first echelon review. Yeah, if you install once for cleaning up a new or rebuilt engine, why not keep it going? The major expense is the installation and once the system is clean, the filter probably don't need changing very often at all (if there is nothing to catch).

 

[The Warden]

Well, nice to hear my logic passed first echelon review. Yeah, if you install once for cleaning up a new or rebuilt engine, why not keep it going? The major expense is the installation and once the system is clean, the filter probably don't need changing very often at all (if there is nothing to catch).

My thoughts exactly I think I'm on my 4th filter since I installed the coolant filter assembly, in 55K miles. I did my first replacement after 8K miles, and got lax with it afterwards because I figured the worst of any contamination had been removed by that point. (for the record, I have replaced the fuel filter more often). I'll try to remember to cut this one open when it comes time to change it...now you have me curious to see if anything is being captured so far down the road from the initial install. I have about 15K miles on the current filter; maybe I'll see about doing it sometime this summer...

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I think I'm on my 4th filter since I installed the coolant filter assembly, in 55K miles.

(for the record, I have replaced the fuel filter more often).

the fuel filter change interval is every 60k miles.they're the size of a common oil filter.big buggers last a long time.

 

[Kevin 007]

I'm big into oil filtration but have never gone into the coolant side of it. Looking at things from both sides:

Like enhanced oil filtration, at the end of the day, the difference in longevity between good STANDARD maintenance practice, i.e. regular service, is minimal and is often not cost-effective. I have not crunched numbers with coolant filtration, nor seen any long term test data on the benefits (please don't attach sale pitches as test data), but I have with enhanced oil filtration and the only way you can make that be cost-effective for the average Joe is to run much-extended OCI (Oil Change Intervals). In other words, enhanced oil filtration is more an oil life enhancement tool than engine life enhancement, versus good standard filtration and maintenance. If you drive the normal 15K a year, you make it pay by doubling or tripling the OCI. There is an engine life extension benefit but it's way out at the far end. Most trucks die of other causes or change owners before that benefit kicks in. If you crank on a LOT of miles per year, the life payoff comes sooner or if you intend to die of old age in the truck. According to statistics, there is a big arc in the longevity/wear curve when if comes to the size and amount of contaminant particles. Within the realm of "normal" oil, oil filtration and standard OCI, the curve is pretty flat and the extra cost of enhanced oil filtration (small particle bypass filtration) takes a very long time to recover. Not changing the subject here, just giving you an idea of my methodology in thinking about this.

Back to the topic at hand, I surmise the same rules apply to coolant filtration. If you can significantly extend coolant life, then you can easily make it pay, especially given how easy and relatively cheap it is to install and maintain one. Thing is, though, modern long life coolant can last 100+K miles anyway. Is there some enhanced benefit within that 100K mile period? Thinking logically, once you get the casting sand out of the cooling system, there are few (pretty much no) contamination inputs to add anything harmful. Akin to an automatic transmission, the most important time is right after the build, or rebuild. Once the system is clear, there is nothing left in a closed system to cause a problem, assuming you installed good water. Are silicates in the coolant a filtration issue? Does material slough off the water jacket? Do they do so in amounts sufficient to cause problems? Don't know the answers to those questions but thats where I would start researching.

The second place to research is, what are the benefits? What difference does it really make if a little contamination is flowing around the system? What fails as a result? Water pump? Maybe but there are many other nonrelated causes of water pump failure, many of them connected with neglect, past or present, and many not related to the coolant at all. Or out of balance fans. Or belts too tight. Or too loose. Has someone run tests to see what level of coolant contamination is required to cause early water pump failure, then done tests to see how long a water pump with last with perfectly clean coolant?

Probably the best part of the idea is that it's a pretty cheap addition. I'd make it a priority on a new truck or one that is fresh from a rebuild or a repair involving something that can allow contamination to enter the system (chunks of RTV, rust flakes, metal, gasket pieces, etc.). If the truck's had a couple of coolant flushes (good one, not half-assed) it would be less a priority.

As an aside, my practice after rebuilds is to just add water the first time, maybe with just a rust inhibitor. Run that for a short while then dump as much as possible, flush and then nstall the coolant. If there are leaks or issues with the rebuild early on, then you don't have to worry about wasting or trying to save expensive coolant as you fix them. You get the issuers sorted out then install the final load of coolant and additives.

All that said, anecdotally, I've had my '86 truck since it had 7K miles. In the early days, I ran 2-3 years on a load of coolant, flushed and changed it. Later, as coolant improved, I stretched it out to 5 years or so and starting adding the SCAs in the mid-'90s. When I tore the engine down in 2009, I took note of the fact that the water jackets were grey metal inside. No rust, no scunge. I didn't find any casting sand but the block was THOROUGHLY cleaned inside and out, so I doubt much, if any, is left after all that. I should probably hook up a filter to test that hypothesis. I have never worn out a water pump on this truck. I replaced the original 80 GPM unit with a 100 GPM pump for the enhanced cooling because I used to tow very heavy but when I hit a deer shortly after moving to Ohio, that pump was damaged and I couldn't replace it. It has a standard flow Ford reman on it now that's about 12 years old.

I have used various "water wetter" type things, currently Royal Purple's Purple Ice ( I have nothing useful to report about it good or bad) and between it and Fleet Charge in a 50/50 mix with distilled water. I haven't felt a strong need to add coolant filtration to the mix. Someday, maybe.

What is the 100GPM water pump about? Is it a Motorcraft or an aftermarket brand? I have never heard of it and I would like it....for obvious reasons. And I don't run a coolan filter now that my rig has many miles and coolant has been flushed many times and looks and stays clean. But if the truck was new or had no miles on it, I would do it.

 

[PwrSmoke]

What is the 100GPM water pump about? Is it a Motorcraft or an aftermarket brand? I have never heard of it and I would like it....for obvious reasons. And I don't run a coolan filter now that my rig has many miles and coolant has been flushed many times and looks and stays clean. But if the truck was new or had no miles on it, I would do it.

It was something I found in the mid '90s, I think at a Navistar dealer. Been long enough that I don't recall. When I hit the deer, I tried to find a replacement but couldn't.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

And I don't run a coolan filter now that my rig has many miles and coolant has been flushed many times and looks and stays clean. But if the truck was new or had no miles on it, I would do it.

i bet you'd be surprised what flushes don't drain and remove.try a coolant filter and i bet it catches far more than you ever thought was in there.

 

[The Warden]

By the way, one other thing to think about...if memory serves, most newer medium-duty and heavy-duty trucks come with a coolant filter from the factory. Did they do this just to have something to release SCA's, or did they feel that a filter was necessary?

I honestly don't know the answer, but again, it's something to think about...and, maybe someone else knows?

 

[PwrSmoke]

Oh, I'm all for SCAs and I am genetically pre-conditioned to accept all forms of filtration as good. If I told you some of what I have done in that regard, I would be blackmailed on the board. What saves me from a life of excess and filtration pedantry is that I am also a cheap *******. I look for stuff that pays me back in some way and in the shortest time possible. Sometimes we enthusiasts pay dollars to save pennies on stuff. I am vulnerable to the same feel-good impulses, so I attempt to justify extra expense with a cost/benefit analysis... independent of the sales pitch for the product (which are always optimized, if not fabricated).

As to factory coolant filter, I think we've discussed the reasons. I've put this topic onto my future research list and maybe will try to do a story on it at some point.

 

[Greg5OH]

Regarding coolant filters, I have probably 5000 miles on my first one. Truck got fresh fleetcharge pink SCA coolannt 50/50. Wondering should I get a filter with the SCA precharge or jsut another regular filter?
What PN is it again?

Also, I am 100% for the coolant filter. Everytime i open my rad drain I get a buunch of crap in the bottom of the drain pan. Those tubes in the rad are very small. If you start developing sludge, mix in some sand with that, guaranteed clogged tubes.

 

[crash-harris]

P/N 4070 -***0 units of DCA charge
P/N 4071 -***4 units of DCA charge
P/N 4072 -***6 units of DCA charge
P/N 4073 -***8 units of DCA charge
P/N 4074 -*12 units of DCA charge

NAPA part numbers from the tech article.

I'm picking up the 4019 kit and a 4073 today. PO put in fresh coolant when he talked the oil cooler, but it looks like standard green coolant. I'll be installing it as soon as I can, but will have to go to lowe's first for shutoff valves, other fittings and a section of angle iron to mount it. I always prefer to use angle over flat stock when mounting things with a single piece. Less flex, more stable. Doing the charged filters because it's easier to change a filter than drain, what, 11 gallons of coolant? Especially when you don't have a garage...or one that's usable.

 

[The Warden]

I've put this topic onto my future research list and maybe will try to do a story on it at some point.

Please do!! I would love to see what you find on the subject...you have me curious now!

 

[TahoeTom]

FWIW I installed a coolant filter bypass style without any ball valves. It just seemed like too much clutter. With the system cold and the filter up high in the engine bay I doubt you would loose a bunch of coolant if you removed the filter to change.

 

[Waystro]

Here's a good read from the Warden
http://www.dieselwarden.net/ford/coolfilter1.html