Conversion From 7.3 to 5.9 Cummins

Discussion in 'Diesel Conversion Forum' started by rodymartin, May 15, 2009.

  1. rodymartin

    rodymartin Full Access Member

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    I finally have a Cummins Motor for my 90 F250. Now to get Parts to make it work. Does any one have advice on what works best?
     
  2. Exekiel69

    Exekiel69 Registered User

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    You might want to ask this on the diesel conversion forum here. If You are good fabricating than You can make all Your brackets, if not then destroked makes some very nice mounts and brackets, pricey but good. Also it all depends on what You want to use, as in what tranny if it is 4x4, etc.
     
  3. MIDNIGHT RIDER

    MIDNIGHT RIDER Full Access Member

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    Just call it what it is, a plain old engine swap; conversion makes it sound more complicated.

    If you can get the truck in the dry, have a drill and a welder, a few wrenches, and something stout enough to lift the engines, then you have everything you need to swap an engine.

    Every bracket and mount you will need can be fabricated at home.

    One thing I did prior to starting that made life a bunch easier was to add a 2-inch body-lift and Borgeson steering-shaft.

    Everything is so much easier to get to and work on with the hood and floor-board being up away from things. :thumbsup:
     
  4. averagef250

    averagef250 Full Access Member

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    Depends a lot on what parts you have and what your has in it. Destroked makes quality adapter plates.

    I use ford diesel ZF 5 or 6 speeds behind the 6 cummins as those are what I prefer and they hold up impressively. I run the mid 90's narrow diesel radiators and a metal powerstroke IC. For motor mounts the cheapest route is using EFI 460 gas mounts flipped upside down. The 460 mounts fit gas or diesel frame stands and are beefier than the diesel ones. For a better mount I use Ford F700-F800 mid mount rubber isolators and build everything from scratch. The medium duty stuff won't rip apart no matter how much torque you have.

    If you have AC the 90's and newer ford and frieghtliner cummins power trucks use the ideal AC setup, the ford medium duty lines will actually hook right into a pickup.
     
  5. rodymartin

    rodymartin Full Access Member

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    Well I have the 5.9 at home now. It is still in the truck that is wrecked. I need a wiring diagram and a few picks of a engine to find where the dipstick is installed as there is not one on the engine.

    I plan to clean and start this while it is still in the dodge truck. This way I can get everything fixed before it is installed in the ford.
     
  6. Exekiel69

    Exekiel69 Registered User

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    Ok then here is a few things You want to do to the engine, KDP as in Killer Dowel Pin this is important to address before You start putting miles on the engine if it falls it will just brake things. It is inside the front gear case and You must put a stop to it as well as tightening (lock-tite) the gear case bolts. When You get the gear case front cover gasket and crankshaft seal make sure You give them the engine serial # (at the cummins dealer) and ask for the wear sleeve crankshaft seal. What year Cummins do You have? from 89-93 is called the first gen then 94-98.5 2nd gen then on and on. I ask this bc there are a few differences with the engines.
     
  7. rodymartin

    rodymartin Full Access Member

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    The engine is in a wrecked 1995 3/4 ton. I do not know what shape the engine is in.

    The plan right now is to pull the bed, cab and fenders. Clean the engine. then start it. I will go from there. I am working on a shoe string here. But I need advice on what books to buy for wiring and on the motor as I need these soon.

    I also need a dipstick if anyone has one to part with please tell me.

    I only payed $50 for the wreck so I am not out to much if it is a totaly bad engine.
     
  8. Exekiel69

    Exekiel69 Registered User

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    Manual or auto? There isn't much needed to run this engines but 12v to the fuel solenoid (near the injection pump on driver side) and power to the starter.
     
  9. rodymartin

    rodymartin Full Access Member

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    Auto and the tranny and tansfer are still in it
     
  10. averagef250

    averagef250 Full Access Member

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    There isn't a wiring harness. You're engine is entirely mechanical. 99.9% of the wiring under the hoos of the dodge is for the dodge crap, not the engine. You don't need the intake heater grid to start it if it's above 10 degrees outside and although the 47RH auto tranny has a computer it is a mostly hydraulic automatic and is very simple to convert to 100% standalone control without the computer.

    If you just want to start it pull the fuel shutoff solenoid up with your hand and put 12 volts to the starter.

    The dipstick on non-commonrail rear sump engines goes into a boss on the driver's side rear of the block just above the pan rail. It is hidden behind the starter on dodges.
     
  11. rodymartin

    rodymartin Full Access Member

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    The tube is still there I need the dipstick itself. There was not one in it when I got the truck.
     
  12. Mudbillyrednec

    Mudbillyrednec Full Access Member

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    How about firewall mods ?


    I've heard there are several areas that require massageing ?

    I'm also interested in info



    Keep this thread alive , so I dont have to start one LOL
     
  13. Exekiel69

    Exekiel69 Registered User

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    It depends what year truck are You installing this engine on. Most trucks with a lift wont need any massaging of the firewall but I think some of the late 70's did (read this somewhere don't know for sure), still id depends what engine mount You use as well, meaning if You center the engine properly no need to massage anybody.
     
  14. Mudbillyrednec

    Mudbillyrednec Full Access Member

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    I'm startin g a 94 F350 crew with autoworlds $400 mounts...pricy i know but they are poly ....convienantly enough...they lost there pics of firewall mods....so now I am left holding the $400 bag :confused:
     
  15. Darrin Tosh

    Darrin Tosh IDI Hound

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    I did have to knock my firewall back a about an inch or 2 so the rear valve cover would clear.
     

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