Chasing the prime!

pastorjeep

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No external leaks that I can find. I replaced the olives at the suggestion of Gary when I put the fresh IP on my old motor in Sept 13. How quickly should I see fuel at the schrader valve on the filter head once I start cranking? If I hold my foot to the floor I can get it started in about ten seconds of cranking. I know many people just live with that but hot or cold when I have fuel this truck has always cranked on the first or second revolution. Just to test my theory about fuel prime being the issue. I went out last week in about 13 degrees and got it started and only ran it for thirty seconds or so until the roughness cleared. I shut it off went in the house and had a cup of coffee (5 mins) and went back out. The engine was still ice cold and cranked first rev after GP light went out. That is what it should do all the time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ok, rant over. ;)
 

pastorjeep

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Little update, I did the pipe plug in the fuel heater hole because even after new o-ring and epoxy it was still leaking! To my amazement the pipe pluge made a world of difference! My cold start cranking times are down from 12-15 seconds of cranking to just 3-5! i bought some clear fuel line from TSC that I am installing at the filter. http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/ldr-3-8-in-clear-braided-tube-10-ft?cm_vc=-10005 The fuel pump came in and I am going to install a http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prm-81794/overview/ I still get a large cloud of white smoke on start up and a miss at idle and I am wondering if the 4 year old Jasper reman injectors are leaking? To sum it up the pipe plug idea was a winner! Thanks guys, I'll keep you posted.
 

BDCarrillo

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One step at a time, and it looks like the air intrusion is done for ;Sweet
 

ironworker40

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Dont leave that clear line in there. It is vinyl and I'm sure not rated for fuel. It should be okay for diagnostics purposes.
 

pastorjeep

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Thanks Iron, but if you click the link you will see TSC sells this specifically as fuel/chemical line for equipment? When I went there they also showed me where it was listed as a fuel line rated for gas and diesel. What's anybody's thoughts on this?
 

ironworker40

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Thanks Iron, but if you click the link you will see TSC sells this specifically as fuel/chemical line for equipment? When I went there they also showed me where it was listed as a fuel line rated for gas and diesel. What's anybody's thoughts on this?
The whole food and beverage and good for ice makers makes me doubt it. I found this. I have used this on Harley's, quads,snowmobiles,garden equipment, it doesnt even need clamps if used on the proper size barbs on gravity flow. You sometimes have to cut it off. It's great to start siphon's with too. You can see fuel coming and start it first time every time without a mouthful.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23487&catid=864
 

LowTech

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I also use the nylon fuel lines for diesel.
It's the stuff from the Depot that will swell over time and fail. Not sure what that's made of.


. . . sent without me knowing . . .
 

pastorjeep

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Okay guys a problem just popped up today that has me not wanting to drive the truck. At about 2200 rpm (my shift point) the engine timing seems to advance way to far and the engine rattles like its about to come apart. Can the timing ring go bad and advance like that? Could it be something else? If I keep the rpm's down and let the tranny short shift I'm fine. Oh and by the way at least the starting issue is fixed. After putting the plug in the filter head it will start within 3 secs of cranking all the way down to 17 degrees first start in the morning. But this new rattle today really surprised me!
 

pastorjeep

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Just took it for another ride after retarding the timing a bit. Same problem but worse. Tried light acceleration and it was doing fine and all of a sudden it just advances? and starts rattling hard and then smooths out and then rattles hard. the first time it did it this morning I thought it was the torque converter because it was so loud and shuddered when it rattled. But I feel pretty sure it is the engine advancing.
 

madpogue

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Here's just a WAG - I wonder if the temp sensor that cuts off the cold idle / cold advance is failing, and the cold advance is kicking back into effect when it shouldn't. I suppose you could tee in a wire on the connector to the cold idle, and run it to a test light in the cab, just to see if it goes back on any time after the engine starts to warm up. Again, just spitballin'.....
 

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