pastorjeep
Full Access Member
yep
Chasing the prime!
- Thread starter pastorjeep
- Start date
Kevin 007
Full-floater
Without having more information, I would bet large sums of money that you will solve your issue by correcting that leak. If you do use any sort of sealant, be sure to have ALL of the residual diesel cleaned off of the parts you are applying sealant to.
And start with getting the correct oring if you don't plan on plugging it permanently with the heater removed
And start with getting the correct oring if you don't plan on plugging it permanently with the heater removed
Bashby
Full Access Member
My heater was leaking but I didn't have any air intrusion problems. I guess because of my EP. I did the 1/2" pipe plug with a drop of blue locative and it is now dry as a bone.
pastorjeep
Full Access Member
CP, the old six-nine had been converted to this 7.3 filter head. If I had not bought a case of 24 filters this thing would go to the trash pile! But when they are used up... I am going to put the pipe plug in it. On a positive note I put two fresh group 31, 1000cca and she cranked "good" this morning at 20 degrees. I was able to spin fast enough long enough to fire off 
Kevin 007
Full-floater
And with air intrusion issues, you are really ******* starters and probably not good for the injection pump to pump a bunch of air through it every day. Just something to take into consideration. I hate putting unnecessary wear on high dollar parts.
Clear vinyl tubing is your friend. Install a short length of that in different places in your return system, and you will find your leak. Just be careful not to introduce new ones as you go. 
ironworker40
NYC Ironworker
Has anyone left the clear tube in there? I thought about this and next time I have to have the return lines off I might try leaving it from filter head , pump and in the rear by the tee. Would give you a instant view of air if you had any, whenever you opened the hood.Clear vinyl tubing is your friend. Install a short length of that in different places in your return system, and you will find your leak. Just be careful not to introduce new ones as you go.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
You could, long as it's diesel rated.
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
pastorjeep
Full Access Member
Ag, I have a question. How will seeing air in the clear identify the intrusion? Will the air be localized or will it travel around the system?
Tygon. Usplastic.com
Been running it for several months without issue. It's rated for fuel, and is a translucent yellow.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
If you see air, you have air intrusion.
Say on the feed line. Start near the engine and work your way towards the tank. If you move further back and see no air, you know the leak is between there and the place you did see air.
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pastorjeep
Full Access Member
Okay, I ordered a e-pump like the one used on the 6.5, almost bought the Mr. Gasket at the Zone but all the bad reports stopped me. Searching the web and have some questions. Most seem to say that if the leak is on the supply side (filter, lift pump) that the truck will start normal but the die and need a hard restart. Mine always has an initial hard start but doesn't die after it starts but it does run rough and miss for thirty seconds or more and then clears up. I also have a new check valve for the top of the IP return line. I still don't really understand how to use the clear line to identify the problem, maybe I need to do it and learn as I go.
One more thing to check..l.i am having this problem right now.
Make sure there are no leaks on the fuel inlet line from the filter to the IP. I am leaking there right now. I changed my olives out and still have a leak. Right now I am waiting on an o-ring for the IP inlet fitting. Going to change that next and try to get the fuel to stay in it.
My starting problems are similar to your description. Is there fuel in the valley pan or around the inlet line on the IP?
Make sure there are no leaks on the fuel inlet line from the filter to the IP. I am leaking there right now. I changed my olives out and still have a leak. Right now I am waiting on an o-ring for the IP inlet fitting. Going to change that next and try to get the fuel to stay in it.
My starting problems are similar to your description. Is there fuel in the valley pan or around the inlet line on the IP?
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