whats the normal/average compression ratio on a 7.3? w/ 10-15 psi
Building a 6.9 to kill
- Thread starter Abull78
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Well starting out around 21.5:1 then jam in 10-15 psi boost....
Well I don't know the math for that.
Oh, here you go. https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compression.htm
Why do you ask? Might be able to understand what you're needing better.
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Well I don't know the math for that.
Oh, here you go. https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compression.htm
Why do you ask? Might be able to understand what you're needing better.
Sent from my SM-T537R4 using Tapatalk
just curious. off the wall brain activity.
wonder if you can convert one of these to alky or ****.
seems like the compression is enough, but would be counter productive...
i dont know. i think of weird stuff from time to time, which is usually all of the time. lol
wonder if you can convert one of these to alky or ****.
seems like the compression is enough, but would be counter productive...
i dont know. i think of weird stuff from time to time, which is usually all of the time. lol
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
Stock ratio is about 21:1. Any engine with a turbo generally reduces the initial ratio significantly by facing the piston tops. This is done in order to make use of more turbo pressure without poking holes in the block or other catastrophic setbacks.
PwrSmoke
Full Access Member
Here I go whizzing on the parade again! ( : < (
Frankly, I think you are about to waste a lot of money. It's your money to waste and I don't deny the road you are contemplating is an interesting engineering puzzle but the fact that you are asking for internet advice tells me you probably don't have the experience or money to carry it off. I say that with all due respect and not to start a flame war. Don't get me wrong, I do love these engines, having had one for going on 30 years. That said, I also realize, understand and respect their limitations: 1) the IDI combustion chamber limits power and performance, 2) the basic structure of the engine is a limitation as well, compared to a Cummins, Duramax or Powerstroke which are much more durable, 3) whatever horsepower levels you do get will come at a much bigger price. You'll spend $5000 to get from an IDI (~400 hp) what you can get from a 7.3L Power Stroke for the cost of a programmer and the IDI will not be street drivable and not all that reliable when pushed hard.
Now if you are looking for around 300 flywheel hp, that's doable with more or less stock durability but it's expensive considering the truck still won't be able to keep up with a stock PSD, Cummins or Duramax. If you are looking for the ultimate power in an old Ford, you are best off with a Cummins transplant. Effective, reliable, almost unlimited power potential and cheaply souped up.
Frankly, I think you are about to waste a lot of money. It's your money to waste and I don't deny the road you are contemplating is an interesting engineering puzzle but the fact that you are asking for internet advice tells me you probably don't have the experience or money to carry it off. I say that with all due respect and not to start a flame war. Don't get me wrong, I do love these engines, having had one for going on 30 years. That said, I also realize, understand and respect their limitations: 1) the IDI combustion chamber limits power and performance, 2) the basic structure of the engine is a limitation as well, compared to a Cummins, Duramax or Powerstroke which are much more durable, 3) whatever horsepower levels you do get will come at a much bigger price. You'll spend $5000 to get from an IDI (~400 hp) what you can get from a 7.3L Power Stroke for the cost of a programmer and the IDI will not be street drivable and not all that reliable when pushed hard.
Now if you are looking for around 300 flywheel hp, that's doable with more or less stock durability but it's expensive considering the truck still won't be able to keep up with a stock PSD, Cummins or Duramax. If you are looking for the ultimate power in an old Ford, you are best off with a Cummins transplant. Effective, reliable, almost unlimited power potential and cheaply souped up.
I've updated it if you want to look again. We had not been putting the Super Moose info on the web site, but it is there now. We've also changed the warranty on the Omega to be the same as our other pumps. Buy two fuel filters when you order your pump and we will automatically extend warranty to a second year.
Interesting you mention this. I believe there is an entire class of super stock farm tractors that are diesels running on alcohol. I have no idea what mods are required to do it, but it seems possible given the right number of cubic dollars.
is this too late for me??
on my 94 turbo, I had my inj pump guru, take it up, to max idi use level,for a stock block. I then got the ats turbo pieces, along with the downpipe,,to pick up the pace, along with a 99 stroke exhaust system to the rear. I then modified the wastegate rod,,to get 13 psi. in that form,,my idi, will run circles around the stock 96 psd I own................
PwrSmoke
Full Access Member
That's because a stock '96 PSD was rated at 210hp and 425 torque, flywheel, a little less than your modified ID was putting out (est. 220-250 @ 500 lbs-ft, give or take). Plus, they gotta have the same axle ratios to make it a fair comparison. Still, I experienced the same thing; a buddy in Colorado bought a '95 (or so) 1st gen PSD new., 4.10:1 axle ratio. We went for an afternoon drag race. The PSD launched better and he got almost a truck length to about 25 mph, then the non-wastegated turbo started puffing hard and I caught up, passed and slowly walked away until I reached about 70, when the truck started to get winded and ran short of gears. His rig shifted into OD and walked past me while my rig was struggling to reach 75 mph. I hit the governor at about 80 as he waved goodbye about an eighth mile ahead.
