Bubbles in coolant reservoir, blown head gasket? Cavitation? Something else?

[jhenegh]

Well sheeeeeit! Looks like you all-ready got this thing all figured out! Looked over your thread, watching the video it was like I was watching my own coolant tank. I feel much better now about my plan of attack. I'm going to put in studs (with plenty of lube!), use a fel-pro gasket- what brand of copper coat did you use & why? I'm also going to have my machine shop give the heads a looking over and a magna-flux. Hopefully they'll loan me a straight edge to check the block deck for level as well (in a pinch I could take it to them, but that would be a pain).

Anyway thanks, this forum delivers again!

The copper coat probably wasn't necessary, and there are varying opinions on its application with various different types of head gaskets. I just wanted as much sticky between all the surfaces so I used it. I had put the studs in when I had the heads redone a few months prior to that, but I didn't have the block checked other than my own straight edge. Maybe my block is less than perfect, maybe the lack of lube ruined my torques. Dunno for sure. With the 4 coats of copper coat on the block side and 1 or 2 on the head side (they had been resurfaced) and liberal ARP assembly lube (I bought the jug of it off Amazon) it is working fine. And I've towed a fair amount since then and run 5-10psi of boost while doing so. I can also bury the needle on my 15psi gauge, but I don't often, and no leaks. I'm at 182,*** miles now. Don't recall off the top of my head when gaskets were, but 175,000 miles or so??

 

[icanfixall]

The copper coat probably wasn't necessary, and there are varying opinions on its application with various different types of head gaskets. I just wanted as much sticky between all the surfaces so I used it. I had put the studs in when I had the heads redone a few months prior to that, but I didn't have the block checked other than my own straight edge. Maybe my block is less than perfect, maybe the lack of lube ruined my torques. Dunno for sure. With the 4 coats of copper coat on the block side and 1 or 2 on the head side (they had been resurfaced) and liberal ARP assembly lube (I bought the jug of it off Amazon) it is working fine. And I've towed a fair amount since then and run 5-10psi of boost while doing so. I can also bury the needle on my 15psi gauge, but I don't often, and no leaks. I'm at 182,*** miles now. Don't recall off the top of my head when gaskets were, but 175,000 miles or so??

I see 6.9 head gaskets on a 7.3 engine....... Not an easier way to increase the coolant flow in our hot running 7.3 engines. Sure wish I had done that when I rebuilt my engine some years back....

 

[jwalterus]

if you yanked it, at least reseal the oil cooler and oil pan while you're at it, eliminate any possible "Now THAT'S leaking?!?!?! " moments
I'd also pull the block drains and flush all the crud out of it regardless of whether it's pulled or not

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Did you use that copper coat before? I've heard of the copper spray causing more problems then helping. I've never used it, it isnt necessary with head gaskets, only non gasketed heads like on some air cooled engines, but adding a dissimilar metal to a mating surface is never a good thing. I know the injectors have copper washers but they also dont have coolant flowing through them. Electrolysis happens much faster in wet areas.

 

[jhenegh]

Copper wasn't used the first time. And it failed. So I threw the kitchen sink at it.

 

[MTKirk]

if you yanked it, at least reseal the oil cooler and oil pan while you're at it, eliminate any possible "Now THAT'S leaking?!?!?! " moments
I'd also pull the block drains and flush all the crud out of it regardless of whether it's pulled or not

Yeah, thinking I might do the rear seal too. I let it go when I did the clutch a few months back because it was bone dry, but DANG, the thing is 30 years old!

 

[MTKirk]

Update on the truck. I managed to pull the engine, and get the heads off. Getting the engine out was pretty easy once I unbolted the pressure plate and left the clutch assembly on the trans input shaft. Head-bolts were all but fused in the block, it’s a miracle I didn’t break any removing them. Definitely need to replace with studs.

The head gaskets were in terrible shape. There are multiple places where leaks were likely occurring. Some head bolts were rusted at the threads, engine coolant must have seeped in them. Some head bolt holes were full of engine oil Is that normal??

Also caught a leaking injector in cylinder 5, injector, precup, and cylinder were wet with diesel. I will have to send that one back to R&D. Also noticed what looks like a leaking front seal.

Cylinder 8 head has a ding in the precup surface right at the fire ring, no way is that going to seal. All the precups are cracked but all cracks are well away from the fire ring, so really I’d only need to replace one precup. Heads were both nearly flat, I could just get a .002 gauge under my straight edge in the middle of both heads The guides are all noticeably loose, and the valve stems are visibly worn (I believe enough to affect stem seal performance). Valves and seats look they have been lapped excessively, and surfaces are still pitted. So I’m thinking all new valves, guides, seats, and one precup. I have no idea on the valve springs but likely they are nearing the end. At this point I think it may be better just to order some rebuilt heads, Opinions??

Pistons look good. Cylinder walls look good and I can still see cross hatching on the walls that looks to be from a fairly recent honing. Did a rough check and out of round is within .002, with taper just about the same. I believe I will ream off the ridge, unbolt a piston from the crank, inspect rings, and rod bearings. Make a decision then on whether to re-ring install rod bearings, maybe even main bearings. Thoughts??

Enjoy the pics!!

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[MTKirk]

Well it's a good thing I decided to pull the engine! Most of the cylinders are out of spec on taper, out of round, and overall diameter. The cylinder I gave the pre-lim check was one of the few to be ok. Also the main bearings were out of spec when checked with plasti-gauge, especially the rear #5. #3 main has a slight grove that would probably be OK with a little honing. The crank seal surfaces on both ends are heavily grooved, might be better to get a reman. Despite showing very little signs of skirt wear, all of the pistons are at the low end of spec, one is under- Pistons must deform from hitting the oiled cylinder walls.

So at this point my options are;
#1 get my block bored .020 and proceed, likely with a reman crank as well.
#2 buy a reman/rebuilt engine.

The cost would be about the same either way, though rebuilding mine means more labor for me. I am considering a rebuild by S&J engines in Spokane,WA as I could drive there and pick it up. Does any one have experience with S&J?

Any thoughts or recommendations?

 

[Hydro-idi]

Remans are a crap shoot nowadays. Been there done that as many know lol.
I would find a good reputable shop and take your engine there for rebuild.
.020-.030 over is safe with a 6.9. Sounds like your engine is a good candidate for a rebuild IMO. Would definitely install ARP studs when it's all said & done.

 

[junk]

I'll add another vote for going through your engine. Last rebuilt I did was crap. (gas engine) Ended up getting a replacement, but after we had to fight for warranty because we self installed VS a shop. Also cost us about $600 at the shop in labor that wasn't covered. Engine had a cracked cylinder bore.

Lots of guys on here talk about Promar - Seems to have a good reputation. I did buy a reman engine for my truck in the late 90's but it came complete from injection pump to pan and had been dyno run before I got it. Been trouble free for 17-18 years. I would be hesitant to buy just a long block though.

Good luck no matter what you do.

 

[riotwarrior]

If u know a good machine shop...have ability to so tye work uourself and tools to do it. A home reman engine is great. Otherwise a buy drop in unit like Promar w warranty is good idea too.

 

[Kizer]

x2 on the engine removal. I've done 1 hg job in chassis and 1 that I went ahead and pulled the engine...I hope I never have to do the "in chassis " again.
That being said, I'm a "one man show."

 

[MTKirk]

I decided to go ahead on rebuilding my engine. Got most of the parts on the way. I'm using a machinist that lives & has his shop just a few blocks away from my house. I've got everything stripped and have everything pretty much mic'ed so I know what I'm looking at. I think I'll start a new rebuild thread because I have a few questions about pre-cups, wrist pin bushings, and rod length that I think the members here could be very helpful with.

Thanks for the input!