bricknose factory temp gauge vs. aftermarket gage readings

LCAM-01XA

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I have a question for you folks, at least for those of you who added an aftermarket coolant temperature gauge to your bricknose truck - how do the letters on the factory gauge compare to actual temperature numbers from you aftermarket gauge? For two years I used to see my temp gauge read at "R" and occasionally climb up to "M" when I had my foot on the floor pulling a long grade, but last week I backed off my super-advanced IP a bit and also removed my huge under-bumper valance and on my X-mast trip I was seeing temperatures of barely reaching "N" and slightly climbing to "O" when I was running uphill, and this is with a big and heavy camper in the bed... If anyone can help me figure out my actual operating temperatures, that would be awesome!
 

LCAM-01XA

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on my truck middle of the gauge is 230
So I guess for the longest time I was running at 220-230 then? Is that about normal for an IDI? Also, next time you start your truck, can you please check what temperature your aftermarket gauge reads when the needle of the factory one points at "N"? Thanks man!

DO brick noses have a better temp gauge than the OBS?
Looks like the same darn semi-useless thing to me, at least when I compare mine to the one in the '97 F250HD that I service...
 

franklin2

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I have the aftermarket in the head and the original gauge in the original location. The "O" is about 190F and this also is the same reading on my old gas 1980 f150 I used to have. The old f150 had a 195 degree thermostat, and I could watch the needle on very cold mornings bounce off the "O", when the thermostat opened up and then shut again.

So ideally you should be near the "O" or a little bit above if you are running the factory thermostat. When I still had my overtemp sensor installed, and I was having overheating problems, it would not let the guage go much past the "A" before it pegged the needle on the factory gauge. I don't think the factory gauge could ever read over to the "L" with the overtemp sensor in place, since it must be higher than the overtemp sensor trip point.
 

towtruckdave

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On my 93' the temp gauge was on the "L" when the motor locked up from heat. :puke:

I had a really top heavy girl with a low cut blouse in my truck so no, I was not watching the gauge.

I was purposely hitting the potholes that day. :sly
 

LCAM-01XA

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I have the aftermarket in the head and the original gauge in the original location. The "O" is about 190F and this also is the same reading on my old gas 1980 f150 I used to have. The old f150 had a 195 degree thermostat, and I could watch the needle on very cold mornings bounce off the "O", when the thermostat opened up and then shut again.
Alright, so I guess I was indeed running cold on this last trip I just made - this would definitely explain some of the poor fuel economy. Do you think retarding the IP slightly from its super-advanced position could have caused such a drop in engine running temperatures?

So ideally you should be near the "O" or a little bit above if you are running the factory thermostat. When I still had my overtemp sensor installed, and I was having overheating problems, it would not let the guage go much past the "A" before it pegged the needle on the factory gauge. I don't think the factory gauge could ever read over to the "L" with the overtemp sensor in place, since it must be higher than the overtemp sensor trip point.
Alright, so then for the last two years I was where I should have been. Also, I do not know how the factory overheat switch factors in the whole mess, but have actually seen my gauge go up to "L", shortly afterwards the red engine light came on but at this point I was already pulling into a parking spot so I was able to shut it off immediately and disaster was averted. Gauge never actually pegged on the high side during that occurrence.

I had a really top heavy girl with a low cut blouse in my truck so no, I was not watching the gauge.

I was purposely hitting the potholes that day. :sly
Oh, you mean a girl like the one I just kicked off my laptop? :sly (bubblegum, she's visiting for a few days, her truck needs some repairs and she could use some company for the holidays anyways) Not quote sure tho how you hitting them potholes intentionally made your engine overheat... And why in the world were you hitting the potholes in the first place, all they do is jarr your teeth and sometimes make your head meet the cab roof, lol

Also, when my engine light came on there was no damage to the engine, I think mostly cause I shut it off immediately and gave it plenty of time to cool off before restarting. It's a darn good thing she survived tho, cause it happened in downtown Chicago :eek:
 

Bill-W

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I know back in my ranger days ford calibirated the gauges on them all over the place, they were more idiot lights than anything. With that said mine runs right on the A 90% of the time and occasionally see's the L. I have not found any rime or reason for it just some days it reads hot and some it does not. I don't have a real gauge yet but the manual readins I have done of the top hose when I get out have all been consistant regardless of the gauge reading.
 

IDIDieselJohn

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My 1990 always reads rigth below the N, or never over N when empty. Never seen it go over O no matter how heavy I was.

1987 E350 witch has the same dash as the old 70's Ford F-series always reads R-M cruising the freeway @ 60mph. Real gauge reads 180* (I have a 180* t-stat).

Dash gauge will sometimes go touch the L when pulling hills, real gauge reads 200* and fan clutch locks in.
 

trackspeeder

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On my 93' the temp gauge was on the "L" when the motor locked up from heat. :puke:

I had a really top heavy girl with a low cut blouse in my truck so no, I was not watching the gauge.

I was purposely hitting the potholes that day. :sly

Are you sure that gauge was on "L"? ;p

I wouldn't know what the gauge was reading with a passenger like that.:rotflmao:rotflmao
 

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