Blown Headgasket/s

[coletrain777]

About a year ago, unknown to me, my waterpump had started leaking and I ran low on coolant. Driving down the road one day I noticed the temp gauge was almost pegged. I pulled over and let the truck cool off, added some coolant and resumed (at this point I still hadn't found the source of the coolant leak). A few weeks later the same thing happened again, and this time I found the leaking water pump. I put a new pump on and all was/is well!

I got to thinking though... I know several folks have asked about leaking headgaskets over the years, but most of the time they don't mention overheating as a reason for believing their headgaskets may be bad. I haven't noticed any unusual aspects of my truck running since overheating a few times, but I wonder if I could have a popped headgasket or two?

What are the best definitive ways to test, and what symptoms would I be looking for?

On a gasser I have done a compression test and used the coolant tester to check for combustion gasses, but I have never tested a diesel...?

Just thought I would ask

 

[tapdancewilly]

Can a popped gasket cause strong oil leaks?

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[91ididiesel]

for head gaskets I think you would need to do a leakdown test

 

[tapdancewilly]

Yup once you get that gas out of your eye you are coming over to help haha!

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[91ididiesel]

hahaha you can count on it

 

[79jasper]

Leakdown and compression will give you a good idea.

I've heard the combustion gas test isn't very accurate on diesels.

If it's still using some coolant, it's possible.

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[riotwarrior]

Leakdown and a coolant pressure tester for seeing if system holds pressure...good thing is you can do one then the other and be done in no time.

Don't worry about a HOT compression test it's not critical. If doing a leak down then mark your harmonic balancer 90 deg around from the groove for TDC this makes it so each consecutive cylinder in the firing order can be tested for leak down. Just keep bringing the harmonic around another 90 deg and test the next cyl...simple as that, I've confirmed this info via checking an engine with no head on and watching cylinder and marking the harmonic.

The only thing you have to do is make sure you start at #1 on the compression stroke...

Disconnect the FSS and use a remote starter switch to bump the engine over, with a comp tester in #1 you can bring it up towards TDC while watching comp gauge. Then swap out comp tester for a leak down. Now you just rotate and test the cyl as mentioned above.

Once done the leak down, take a coolant tester and pump up the system to say 13 lbs and wait see how long it holds if it holds for at least 15 minutes rotate the engine by hand 90 deg and wait again...think beer while waiting, if it still holds roll engine another 90 wait another 15 then if it holds do it again,

Two complete revolutions of crank will fully cycle each cyl from tdc to bdc allowing any cyl with cavitation to show up.



Also do this all with GP's OUT and FSS not connected.

Once you have gone through all this spin starter to blow any debis or water out of any cylinders..

Then install GP reconnect FSS and it should fire right up as normal.

JM2CW

 

[Knuckledragger]

These engines are very forgiving, if there is no difference in performance, there is not likely a reason to suspect a head gasket failure. if you have oil or coolant leaks in new places, however, you may want to investigate further.

A compression test will give pretty good information about the relative health of rings and valves, but hardly necessary for a head gasket failure, which will usually announce itself. Occasionally, the HG will seep coolant or oil down the block, but any compression failure will normally be shown at the tailpipe with white vapor or smoke.

 

[JSVD]

not sure how the ford coolant systems are set up but i was taught to make sure the rad is full of fluid then hold the overflow line into a glass of water. If there's a stream of bubbles you're HG is probably blown.

 

[coletrain777]

Great replies guys... Just what I was looking for. The truck starts, runs, and drives great and I haven't seen a loss in coolant so I will assume everything is OK for the time being. I also know there are several folks who run the "silver" additive to the coolant which can help stop the tiny leaks. I have never been a fan of cures in a bottle, but what do you guys think about that for peace of mind. If I wouldn't have to remove that stubborn turbo to do a headgasket swap I would just change them out to be sure.

 

[79jasper]

No, on stop leaks/block sealer.

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