block and head problems
- Thread starter rodymartin
- Start date
Rody,
That's pretty common in a motor that's been sitting unused for a while. If I remember correctly, it has been sitting for about 4 years. The valves may have been open on those cylinders and condensation/rain did it's worst on those cylinders. Usually, it's not too bad and can be cleaned up on the heads and honed out of the cylinders. But the rings may be stuck.
I wouldn't hurt to take it down and have the corrosion cleaned up and put a set of rings on the pistons if everything else is up to spec.
No water in the pan? If so......the bearings may be shot.
Heath
That's pretty common in a motor that's been sitting unused for a while. If I remember correctly, it has been sitting for about 4 years. The valves may have been open on those cylinders and condensation/rain did it's worst on those cylinders. Usually, it's not too bad and can be cleaned up on the heads and honed out of the cylinders. But the rings may be stuck.
I wouldn't hurt to take it down and have the corrosion cleaned up and put a set of rings on the pistons if everything else is up to spec.
No water in the pan? If so......the bearings may be shot.
Heath
rodymartin
Full Access Member
Rody,
That's pretty common in a motor that's been sitting unused for a while. If I remember correctly, it has been sitting for about 4 years. The valves may have been open on those cylinders and condensation/rain did it's worst on those cylinders. Usually, it's not too bad and can be cleaned up on the heads and honed out of the cylinders. But the rings may be stuck.
I wouldn't hurt to take it down and have the corrosion cleaned up and put a set of rings on the pistons if everything else is up to spec.
No water in the pan? If so......the bearings may be shot.
Heath
Did not find water in pan and have pulled 1 of the main caps. It looked OK.
Look at the second picture down in enlarged view right most bore. If it was not for the rust in the bores I would say from the hone marks that the engine just rebuilt.
Sounds like the main and rod bearings are fine. Some would just "run" it like it is..........but I think it'd be best to hone those cylinders and at least re-ring the affected pistons.
Heath
Heath
69dieselfreak
well that nice
re ring the pistons and and do rods and mains (berings) wile you are there
MUDKICKR
Full Access Member
man if i was you i would at the very least take it to bare block/hone cylinders then ck to make sure there within spec. then install the pistons and make sure its within spec as well. i would install new rod bearings/main bearings/oil pump/piston rings into the short block. then i would disassamble the cyl heads and at the very least clean the rust out and lap the valves. and i would install all new gaskets and seals and be done with it. the time and money you spend now will save you in the end.
you have it out and apart.youd be stupid not to run a hone through the cylinders real quick,have the crank polished and new rings,bearings and oil pump.
69dieselfreak
well that nice
id second that one
rodymartin
Full Access Member
Sounds like the main and rod bearings are fine. Some would just "run" it like it is..........but I think it'd be best to hone those cylinders and at least re-ring the affected pistons.
Heath
Well here is the plan as of now. Due to monetary comcerns and Chirstmas coming up. I need this tuck up and running soon due to snow.
1. Clean all rust I can from the cylinders. Remeber this Engine was and looks to be a fresh rebuild when it was set on a pallet 4+ years ago. Cylinders still have cross hatch pattern on them.
2. Clean all rust from insode of engine.
3. Check and retorque all bearings. The one I pulled at the rear main looked new and had never been run.
4 Use as much of the parts as I can from the 7.3 in rebuild.
5. Use studs to remount heads. I need advice here as to torque and mounting.
6. If can find a valve tool I will remove the vavles and check seats. If no tool take it to a shop and have same done.
I have to do this cheap and quickly. Most of what I do has to be done by me and my son.
I understand about time and cash. Do the best you can. Certainly check the bearing. Hone the cylinders that are rusted. A spring loaded bar hone is easy to use and will do the job. The studs are something I have not had experience with. PM "icanfixall" (Gary). He's done ARP studs and can help you there. I'd also have a really good look at the rings on the affected pistons. They may be too rusted to reuse.
Heath
Heath
rodymartin
Full Access Member
WELL my son and just finished removing the rust the bores and taaking the main caps off.
1. One bore is rusted to badly to be used. the Piston on close examination has a piece out of it.
2. Another bore looks as if some one held a ball hone in one place to long and cut a ridge in it.
3. Number one main bearing crank surface has a ridge in it.
4. Number two main bearing crank suface also has a ridge in it.
5. Number Three main bearing may be backwards also had grit inbeded in bearing surface.
I do believe I set the whole thing afire.
1. One bore is rusted to badly to be used. the Piston on close examination has a piece out of it.
2. Another bore looks as if some one held a ball hone in one place to long and cut a ridge in it.
3. Number one main bearing crank surface has a ridge in it.
4. Number two main bearing crank suface also has a ridge in it.
5. Number Three main bearing may be backwards also had grit inbeded in bearing surface.
I do believe I set the whole thing afire.
6.9poweredscout
Bleeds IH red...
sounds like my 6.9 when i got it...the guy at the junkyard claimed it was a "running" engine. when i tore it down to regasket it 2 cyls were all rust. took a 20 overbore to clean the rust. i rebuilt the entire engine, no more rust issues now! 
-Jon
-Jon
rodymartin
Full Access Member
Well some good news. Im went to see a friend today he has a diesel 85 4x4 for sale. It needs body work but I bought it it is runable so at least I have a truck to drive this winter. Will post pics after I get it.
Cool. Please keep us in the loop. Sorry to hear about you other motor being wrose than you hoped.
Heath
Heath
rodymartin
Full Access Member
Looks like rebuild the 6.9 totally. Is $250 to much for a bore job?
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