BioDiesel Kit?

George_7.3IDI

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imo i think processing your own bio takes longer than svo, because not only do u have the steps to prepare the oil just like svo u also have to do test batches exc and in the end atleast from my experience svo is the easy route no testing or long term processing/ drying just filter and go for the most part depending on the quality.


Not too mention you also don't have to figure out how to get rid of the glycerin that's left over from the transesterification process. In most places it's consider hazardous waste due to the methoxide that remains in it. Also you end up having to deal with some highly hazardous chemicals like KOH or NaOH and methanol.

George
 

97idi

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Depends on where you are (temperatures) and your driving patterns. Up north, SVO creates the issue of needing to get the rig/ components up to temp on regular diesel before switching, and then you have to purge the VO before shutting down; if you don't do long drives, that can defeat the benefits. I understand that biodiesel involves more fuss, but it can be used in a wider range of conditions.

i agree with that as well but if you have ur filter wraped with a heater along with the lines (HIH) and a tank heater keep it plugged in over night i think i would be ok for milder temps but even when i run a bio i usualy run b99 and anything lower than 40* is hard starting so idk whare iam going with this but i like bio as well expecilyfor the summer;Sweet
 

pybyr

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For de-watering, one of the smartest ideas I ever heard of came from an ingenious fellow who'd adapted his home oil-fired boiler to run on WVO (which also involved pre-heating and a special nozzle that also used compressed air to vaporize the thicker oil). He had a 55 gallon plastic barrel with a warmer on it on a stand in the cellar, and a 10 gallon bucket upstairs. A hose with a valve-- almost closed off, so that it flowed downward only very slowly- ran from the upstairs bucket to a point about 2/3 deep in the big downstairs drum. He had a valve on the bottom to draw off the water that sank out, and a valve about 1/3 of the way up the barrel to draw off clean oil; the slow feed from the upper bucket prevented stirring up of the downstairs barrel. All he had to do was a final fine filter and it went straight to the oil burner (and they're finicky about water and particles).
 

97idi

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For de-watering, one of the smartest ideas I ever heard of came from an ingenious fellow who'd adapted his home oil-fired boiler to run on WVO (which also involved pre-heating and a special nozzle that also used compressed air to vaporize the thicker oil). He had a 55 gallon plastic barrel with a warmer on it on a stand in the cellar, and a 10 gallon bucket upstairs. A hose with a valve-- almost closed off, so that it flowed downward only very slowly- ran from the upstairs bucket to a point about 2/3 deep in the big downstairs drum. He had a valve on the bottom to draw off the water that sank out, and a valve about 1/3 of the way up the barrel to draw off clean oil; the slow feed from the upper bucket prevented stirring up of the downstairs barrel. All he had to do was a final fine filter and it went straight to the oil burner (and they're finicky about water and particles).
that is a good idea but takes room the easiest thing i have used for making biodiesel is a stand pipe wash tank basicly the same cosept but for washing the bio, u have a 55gal plastic drum upside down with the top cut off, and on one of the ports u have a pipe that stans about 8 to ten inches into the barrel so when u wash the water settles lower than the top of the pipe and u can drain the washed bio off with out any water;Sweet maby use this idea along with the salt type water thing that was mentend before :dunno
 

Diesel JD

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Yeah well I'm happy for you if SVO works for you. Bio works for me and it is cheaper than pump diesel by far when I can get cheap methanol and by a little when I get reamed here at the race shop. The methanol isn't that hazardous if you use it outdoors in a well ventilated area, and you do have to make sure it is never in a vessel where it could be accidentally ingested cause it looks just like water. The caustics are nasty but ordinary gloves and a dust mask is all you need to protect yourself. You just have to be smart and use proper ppe and think before you act. The glycerol waste is a huge problem, if you recover the methanol my understanding is that it's no longer hazardous waste and can be solidified and thrown in the garbage or composted.
 

97idi

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Yeah well I'm happy for you if SVO works for you. Bio works for me and it is cheaper than pump diesel by far when I can get cheap methanol and by a little when I get reamed here at the race shop. The methanol isn't that hazardous if you use it outdoors in a well ventilated area, and you do have to make sure it is never in a vessel where it could be accidentally ingested cause it looks just like water. The caustics are nasty but ordinary gloves and a dust mask is all you need to protect yourself. You just have to be smart and use proper ppe and think before you act.
The glycerol waste is a huge problem, if you recover the methanol my understanding is that it's no longer hazardous waste and can be solidified and thrown in the garbage or composted
.

x2

you can also make soap from the glycerol once u take the **** out of it and it is extremely good for your skin;Sweet
 

pybyr

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x2

you can also make soap from the glycerol once u take the **** out of it and it is extremely good for your skin;Sweet

I've head of people burning the glycerol as a fuel in specially adapted oil burners for furnaces and boilers- but it takes some effort to adapt one.
 
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