On the block heaters those are put in with just a lubricant around the oring when new, but when re installing on old engines you are dealing with old pitted metal that won't seal like new and some RTVwill be a life saver
Big problem...popped the block heater
- Thread starter Diesel JD
- Start date
On the block heaters those are put in with just a lubricant around the oring when new, but when re installing on old engines you are dealing with old pitted metal that won't seal like new and some RTVwill be a life saver
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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I am gonna go out in left-field and say that a simple generic rubber fix-it freeze-plug is far less likely to give problems in an old still-in-the-truck engine than trying to replace with the original style metal plugs.
Also, I would ditch the idea of using the original style plugs in favor of normal easy-to-install metal freeze-plugs IF I HAD THE ENGINE OUT.
A block-heater is nothing different than a generic rubber freeze-plug with an element poking through it.
I would clean the hole as well as I could, add a little Permatex or RTV around the rubber, and install a brand-new block-heater.
Have you had the old one that popped out where you can inspect it thoroughly ??
I would guess that either the old crumbly rubber gave up it's grip, or some part of the clamping device has rusted away.
Also, I would ditch the idea of using the original style plugs in favor of normal easy-to-install metal freeze-plugs IF I HAD THE ENGINE OUT.
A block-heater is nothing different than a generic rubber freeze-plug with an element poking through it.
I would clean the hole as well as I could, add a little Permatex or RTV around the rubber, and install a brand-new block-heater.
Have you had the old one that popped out where you can inspect it thoroughly ??
I would guess that either the old crumbly rubber gave up it's grip, or some part of the clamping device has rusted away.
i had this issue on mine. the clamp on the backside of the heater broke, plug popped out. luckly it did it in my driveway at work. got a rubber expandable one and installed. havent had an issue yet and been that way for 6-7 months. i dont use the block heater anyway. figured i do have a heater for the lower rad hose, will but that in when i change my oil cooler next week.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Our blocks can't use the cup style freeze plugs.... The block ports are not drilled deep enough for them to fit. The factory type plugs are concave and sit in a machined cup in the block thats about 1.4 inch deep. Then the special tool holds them inplace and you hit the center of the tool and that expands the plug into the walls of the block machined cup. Now the block heater will accept the cup type freeze plug because its machined out to 1 1/2 inch thru to the coolant side of the block... Just lika any gasser is.... Also our oem plugs are stainless steel... Do not try to install the brass aftermarket plugs.... They wont stay in the block because they are way too soft.
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Okay, so here's what we did, and I just hope it stays fixed. We installed a copper expandable freeze plug in place of the block heater with permatex aviation sealer to help it stay where it is. We put new coolant and and pressurized the block to 15 psi and no leaks anywhere, so I apparently I was blessed not to crack the block or heads. I doubt she really even got that hot to be honest. I just hope the water pump and everything else is still happy. There was still *some* coolant in there although not much as it took about 5.5 gallons to fill everything up after burping all the air out. I guess we'll see when it gets back on the road. I just have to put the starter and cables back in.
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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So the block-heater will only work in the one hole ??
Some of the Cummins guys in the really cold places have installed a second block-heater; is that even possible on an IDI ??
If that be the case, can the expandable rubber squish-to-fit plugs even be used at all ??
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I'm not going to say an expandable type rubber freeze plug wont work in our blocks because I have read here that someone did do it once but.... That area it fits in isn't machined smooth. Its kinda ruff ly machined area not fit for sealing like a true machined freeze plug hole is...
So the block-heater will only work in the one hole ??
Some of the Cummins guys in the really cold places have installed a second block-heater; is that even possible on an IDI ??
If that be the case, can the expandable rubber squish-to-fit plugs even be used at all ??
All the holes are the same. THe block heater has either one or two orings right at the outer edgebut no more than about 3/8" in, well within the depth of where the inner lip where the freeze plugs seat against. That inner hole that is smaller than the diameter of the freeze plug or the heater is very rough cut and if someone were to attempt usage of a rubber expansion plug, i shouldn't think it would last long
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
I forgot to mention we think the reason for failure had to do with the block heater's clamping mechanism breaking.
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
MY 83 engine has had a rubber freeze plug in place of the block heater for around 15 years
burtcheca
farmer/cabinetmaker
JD,
Are you going to eliminate then the block heater?
Remember that in January this year we had teens for a week, every morning. At least here where I live, and I'm about an hour and 15 minutes from you. This week we had three days in the lower 20s and next week the same.
Burt.
Are you going to eliminate then the block heater?
Remember that in January this year we had teens for a week, every morning. At least here where I live, and I'm about an hour and 15 minutes from you. This week we had three days in the lower 20s and next week the same.
Burt.
94turboidi
Full Access Member
I pulled the cord off the block heater on mine since I installed a 2000 watt circulating coolant heater. Coolant runs from where the drain plug was on the passenger side of the engine down to the heater and rises back and has a y going into the heater line from the water pump. It quickly puts out some heat and the water pump is hot to the touch in a short amount of time. The thing I like about it is it seems to get the whole engine hot instead of just one side. I kept my old block heater cord in case I need it sometime.
flareside_thun
Reviving The General Tao
x2 on what Burt said JD...this front movin in is gonna have our high at 54* where I'm at 70 miles south of you.....I know how frigid G-ville can get....
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
It starts fine in that weather without being plugged in. It even started ok tonight when I finally got everything put back together. So I'm just very blessed and grateful that it didn't get hurt. I might decide to blend in some diesel or kerosene on this next tank full, B100 might not flow too well in the 20s, but it flowed well enough to start and run pretty normally tonight.
burtcheca
farmer/cabinetmaker
JD,
Where do you get your B100? I have a source in Lake City but they only want to sell B20 because of insurance problems. I have a 240 gallons tank that would like to fill with B100. Maybe 200 of B100 so I can mixed with diesel now in the winter.
What price are you getting your B100?
Thanks,
Burt.
Where do you get your B100? I have a source in Lake City but they only want to sell B20 because of insurance problems. I have a 240 gallons tank that would like to fill with B100. Maybe 200 of B100 so I can mixed with diesel now in the winter.
What price are you getting your B100?
Thanks,
Burt.
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