I have what I think is a mitsu starter. I would get a click fom the solenoid while still on the truck, but now I can't get the solenoid to make a sound using cables and a battery. I can't get the starter to spin either when bypassing the solenoid. Would someone please run through bypassing the solenoid for a bench test for me please? Thanks.
Bench testing a starter
- Thread starter Jbevs
- Start date
bghnkinf350
Registered User
Ground the housing to the battery. Positive to large solenoid lug where the battery was hooked on while it was in the truck. Now jump from same large lug to small lug and solenoid should click, and starter spin.
TO BYPASS THE SOLENOID
Ground housing to battery and hook positive side to other lug with the wire coming off it going into the starter motor. The motor should spin like crazy.
I use jumper cables for these tests and a jumper wire for the solenoid.
TO BYPASS THE SOLENOID
Ground housing to battery and hook positive side to other lug with the wire coming off it going into the starter motor. The motor should spin like crazy.
I use jumper cables for these tests and a jumper wire for the solenoid.
Interesting. Starter tests good. I guess I have more electrical problems than I thought. I hope this rain lets up so that I can get this all sorted out. What has me baffled is the starter stopped turning over when jumping the fender solenoid. Batteries were full too. The wiring from the battery to the starter looks good on both ends. I suppose I will have to look closer. At least I don't have to shell out the cash for a new starter!
jwalterus
Made in America
if nothing else, wire it how I had the starter wired when I first got the flood victim dried out, I had power through the main heavy cable to the solenoid (just check it with a test light or voltmeter), so I rant a pushbutton to the starter wire (was interesting though, since I didn't disconnect the original wire either all my gauges worked while cranking but that was it)
and something I can never stress enough to people having no start problems with work trucks, check your battery terminals and cables, 99% of the "Everything works but it won't turn over" jobs I've had was simply a bad cable connection (normally a bad ground cable or loose solenoid nut)
oh, and if it cranks no matter what you do (key off or on) when you hook up the battery cables after you tighten connections, you overtightened the connection on the solenoid and cracked something loose inside (I've done that a few times.....)
and something I can never stress enough to people having no start problems with work trucks, check your battery terminals and cables, 99% of the "Everything works but it won't turn over" jobs I've had was simply a bad cable connection (normally a bad ground cable or loose solenoid nut)
oh, and if it cranks no matter what you do (key off or on) when you hook up the battery cables after you tighten connections, you overtightened the connection on the solenoid and cracked something loose inside (I've done that a few times.....)
paulw
paulw
it could also be the netural safety switch i had wiring corroded on my truck and it pretty much did the same thing hope this helps
I've had my suspicions of the clutch safety switch to tell you the truth. I think I'm going to install a push button just to get me going again. The heavy duty wire is in good shape, so it's only the smaller wire I need to do. Is all I really need to do is run a hot wire to the switch and then run the hot wire to the starter small lug? It's been a few years since I've done some 12v switches. Probably need a ground on it to?
bghnkinf350
Registered User
Try bypassing the safety switch - easier than running another switch, especially if you think i is the problem.
