Auto Trans Limp Mode Question

rpm427

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The other day was driving and trans started shifting real hard with light blinking on shift handle and when I turned corner the trans went into a free wheel mode like you pushed a clutch pedal in.Had this happen before but shut off to clear computer and trans stayed the same until I stopped and parked for 10 minutes then everything was fine.Is this free wheeling burning trans up and why didn't Ford recall these trucks and fix this problem as something going on?
 

mblaney

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Yikes! Mine had been shifting harder, delayed shifts, etc for a while. Then one day it 'freewheeled' (no gears forward or reverse). $3400 fixed it. 320,000 km is about right for the E4OD to wear out it's consumables. Rebuild should last longer than the original due to upgrades.

Oh ya, before anyone else posts....


ZF5!!!!!

not!

***:backoff
 

OLDBULL8

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When the OD lite flashes, that indicates your in so called limp mode. There are three things to cause that, the VSS on the rear diff, the tach on the IP gear housing, the TPS/FIPL. If your speedometer quits working, it's the VSS. It's also possible your if you go into "free wheeling" like you say, the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor) is defective or intermittent, or the connector is loose or corroded, it's on the drivers side of trans.

Best thing to do is pull the codes, then you know.

EDIT Changed T to M for trans lever position sensor.
 
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The Bus

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Yikes! Mine had been shifting harder, delayed shifts, etc for a while. Then one day it 'freewheeled' (no gears forward or reverse). $3400 fixed it. 320,000 km is about right for the E4OD to wear out it's consumables. Rebuild should last longer than the original due to upgrades.

Oh ya, before anyone else posts....


ZF5!!!!!

not!

***:backoff

For people like me :dunno

320,000 KM = about 200,000 miles

I would be lost without the internet.:D
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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It's also possible your if you go into "free wheeling" like you say, the TLPS (Transmission Lever Position Sensor) is defective or intermittent

+1. you just have a failing range sensor.replace it and should be good.easy peasy lemon squeezy.no downgrading with a manual zf5 required.:D
 

icanfixall

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Want a bullet proof E4OD call Brians Truck Shop in Leadhill Arkansas. BTS has the best trans money can buy. Warranty is "Any hp... Any torque... No questions asked". They are that good. Their triple disc torque converters have 150 sq inches of friction material. the standard stock converter that works VERY well for most has.... 25 sq inches of friction material..... they add more clutch plates to several forward gear sets. the sun gear is REAL steel... Not aluminum.
 

OLDBULL8

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Want a bullet proof E4OD call Brians Truck Shop in Leadhill Arkansas. BTS has the best trans money can buy. Warranty is "Any hp... Any torque... No questions asked". They are that good. Their triple disc torque converters have 150 sq inches of friction material. the standard stock converter that works VERY well for most has.... 25 sq inches of friction material..... they add more clutch plates to several forward gear sets. the sun gear is REAL steel... Not aluminum.

That's great if you have a wallet with $4000 bucs in it. LOL.
 

rpm427

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I'm going to replace that sensor as I want this to go away.I take GOOD care of my truck and just turned over to 120,000 and I changed filter and fluid every 20,000...Wow those trans cost that kind of money from BTS?
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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last i heard BTS trans were going for 5 or 5.5k now.:eek:
you need to understand though,he builds his with some hard parts,that you'll never dream of breaking oem versions of with our idi engines.
 

rpm427

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I have a trans guy who can build alot cheaper then that as my truck pretty much stock.I just do some towing and works fine as if I wanted a power house I would probably change motor.I just didn't want to hurt the trans as it free wheeled a couple times then ****** in gear.Can't be good?
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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yeah,no that's not good for it at all.if your short on funds for a bit and need to wait until you can afford a range sensor,just drive with your hand on the shift lever.when you feel it let loose like that and go to what feels like N on it's own,shift it into N manually real quick and coast to a stop.shift it back into D and go again.this way here,it can't slam back into gear like that and you wont break anything until you can swap out the sensor.;Sweet
 

trackspeeder

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I have a trans guy who can build alot cheaper then that as my truck pretty much stock.I just do some towing and works fine as if I wanted a power house I would probably change motor.I just didn't want to hurt the trans as it free wheeled a couple times then ****** in gear.Can't be good?

The jerking action puts a tremendous amount load on the center support causing it to move around. After awhile this will blow out the intermediate shaft. Specially on the unmodified pre 95 units. Early E4OD trannys use a small bushing to keep the shaft aligned. The end of the shaft will bind up and break off.
 

austin92

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Got a t19 collecting dust....


1983 f350 6.9 zf5 2wd srw single cab long bed. Facet duralift, optima red tops, bfg all terrains, 4" exhaust from y pipe back, autometer z series pyro, pump turned up 2 flats
 
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