Alrighty boys - can't shift into gear

warhog

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the shop ended up paying for the rentals up until this one (since this is "my" fault). I probably won't ask them to cover the rental this next coming time since i don't know exactly what is leaking fuel so it may not be anything to do with them but i'd rather not be the one to mess with bending fuel lines.. i need to check that out though, just haven't tinkered yet. it's literally ******* it right down from top of the engine down the tranny and onto the exhaust...not good.
 

warhog

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i quickly did look at the IP area, and all looked dry. It's running from the back of the engine. I doubt i bumped anything working on the MC but who knows...heck, who knows how long it's been like this! I imagine though once the exhaust heated up it wouldn't take much to ignite. I only started it once in the past week (the time i saw it leaking fuel) and it barely wanted to start. Though, since i got the engine there have only been 2 or 3 days when it actually started the way it should lol. I haven't bothered with jasper to do a compression test until the truck is actually moveable. Maybe by some stroke of luck it's not fuel, i have almost no sense of taste or smell, so it's tough for me to figure out fluids. It feels like diesel though.
 

79jasper

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I would put money on it being a fuel leak. Especially since it was hard to start. There's a drain hole at the back of the valley pan, so everything will drain out at the flywheel. But also the fuel return line runs down over the drivers side of the transmission. So it could be leaking there. It would run okay once started since it's downstream of the injector pump. If it were upstream, it would suck air into the pump causing rough running and white smoke.
Unless the shop is going to cover it like a warranty, you may as well fix it yourself. That way you know it's done right, and you can finally enjoy owning and driving the truck.
 

warhog

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Yeah it's coming down right at the flywheel, and also following the fuel line down along the frame there. it's going to be 70s next week so i'll have a chance to look at it (stupid me parked the truck outside before i took it apart). If it's anything new, i won't touch it. I just never messed with fuel lines before so i'm a bit iffy. If it's bolt on/bolt off, i usually get the pair to try it and see if i can fix it, but i don't know about this ha.
 

79jasper

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There's a junction fitting back there. I bet part of it is leaking down the valley and the rest is running down the line. I could see accidentally yanking it while taking the slave out.
 

warhog

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never took the slave out though! But i'll look for that fitting. Maybe I could handle replacing that lol.
 

79jasper

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Oh I thought you did lol. The fitting is attached. It'd be one of the rubber hoses that's leaking. Possibly a injector cap. I could probably get some pictures tomorrow. Of course mine's a 7.3 so it'll look a little different, but close enough so that you know what to look for. Could be simple as tightening a hose clamp.
 

warhog

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Alright, purchased Jason's bracket through Mel and got it installed yesterday. Popped the MC on the bracket and guess what? The bolt just spins inside the mc. It's always something ain't it? I did however adjust the pushrod and my pedal works fine! Sucks I have to take it back apart, but a little progress is better than no progress.
 

riotwarrior

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Alright, purchased Jason's bracket through Mel and got it installed yesterday. Popped the MC on the bracket and guess what? The bolt just spins inside the mc. It's always something ain't it? I did however adjust the pushrod and my pedal works fine! Sucks I have to take it back apart, but a little progress is better than no progress.

Sounds like a calamity of horrors...one step L one R too forward one left one back...rofl...You'll get it...

Least your well on your way to a good smooth clutch n so forth!..

What about removing MC..and popping out the stud, drill through n use a bolt n washer!!!!!

So when you installed it how well did the bracket fit...need any tweaking?

Did you use any adhesive like I did to bond it in permanent?

How do you find the feel of the column now?

Details we want details....

Al
 

79jasper

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Ah making progress.
I like Al's idea for the bolt.

Al, would it be better to use something in between there to seal out moisture?

I usually use something when attaching stuff to the thinner body metals.
 

warhog

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Am I able to drill through it or will it crack? The bracket fit great, it was really close on the test fit. It took a little...persuasian with a hammer on the truck sheetmetal but nothing major. I didn't use any adhesive or anything. All in all, i'm happy with it from a visual perspective and i'm sure it'll live up to it's looks.

I haven't put the truck back together yet, so the column is in the backseat :p It's super cold outside, and once I realized I needed a new MC, I came inside. It'll be easier for me to get to the nuts with the column out. Supposed to snow the next two days so i'll have to get my big boy pants on and deal with it.
 

riotwarrior

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Am I able to drill through it or will it crack? The bracket fit great, it was really close on the test fit. It took a little...persuasian with a hammer on the truck sheetmetal but nothing major. I didn't use any adhesive or anything. All in all, i'm happy with it from a visual perspective and i'm sure it'll live up to it's looks.

I haven't put the truck back together yet, so the column is in the backseat :p It's super cold outside, and once I realized I needed a new MC, I came inside. It'll be easier for me to get to the nuts with the column out. Supposed to snow the next two days so i'll have to get my big boy pants on and deal with it.

I suppose I could take and BREAK out the stud on one of my crap MC's and see if my theory holds true...drill and bolt it in place...

Will have to see if I can locate said NFG MC...let me check tomorrow... ;)
 

lilredtdi

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Am I able to drill through it or will it crack? The bracket fit great, it was really close on the test fit. It took a little...persuasian with a hammer on the truck sheetmetal but nothing major. I didn't use any adhesive or anything. All in all, i'm happy with it from a visual perspective and i'm sure it'll live up to it's looks.

I haven't put the truck back together yet, so the column is in the backseat :p It's super cold outside, and once I realized I needed a new MC, I came inside. It'll be easier for me to get to the nuts with the column out. Supposed to snow the next two days so i'll have to get my big boy pants on and deal with it.

Boy, do I understand your frustration. I have been dealing with my own comedy of breakdowns. Keep your chin up and giterdone. The idea you had of getting a beater car is a good one.

My philosophy? Once a car/truck is paid off and has 150k+ 0n it it is on borrowed time. It is not if it is going to break it is when. That being said I am not afraid to drive a well maintained diesel with 400K on it across the country. I just KNOW that is going to need work so I have more than one vehicle. I figure you really cannot get ANY car/truck new and have a payment less than $450 a month and that would be a tuna can with a hamster and wheel for an engine.

I have two cars and one truck. All are old and paid off and combined they have 800,000 miles between them. Sure I also spent 2K a year on parts to keep em all running and maintained well. Still WAYYYYYY less than a payment, high insurance payments and you still will need to pay for maintenance. I still carry full coverage on all of them and it is about $1600 a year. I do live near DC so I would guess insurance here is more than elsewhere. Anyway, that is less than 4 months car payment. Another piece of advice? CGet AAA premier and then call your insurance co. and tell them to drop all of that roadside assistance, lock smith crap. That will save you about $50 a year and cover part of the $120 a year cost of AAA.

BTW- if it is not too late seal that backing plate. If ya do not moisture will get in there and cause rust. Clean the whole area real good with mineral spirits and or rubbing alcohol. You can get auto body seam sealer fro most any auto parts store. Goop it on and bolt it in to distribute it. If you cannot get that still clean real good and use some silicone that resists fuels and oils. Then hit it with some rattle can of your choice.

PS-If whats loose is the stud in the MC epoxy it in. Once again, make sure everything is super clean and oil free before doing it.
 

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