AC service possibile conversion
- Thread starter Spun4Fun
- Start date
mu2bdriver
Full Access Member
Lol. I'll take your word over the others. Any fancy procedures in dealing with this one?
This is what a York looks like:
What you have is the Ford I believe made by Visteon A/C compressor they started using in the very early 80's and still use a variant of it to this day. My 03 Excursion and 00 P71 have this same style:
The York is a piston type pump, just like your engine, there is an oil sump, a crank, connecting rod, piston and head. Instead of it running like an engine, it is driven and compresses with the same idea. Many have used a York A/C compressor for on-board air. There is a bit of modification most make, but it will compress air same as freon.
The Ford pumps is a rotary vein type pump. It is lubricated by the "oil" in the refrigerant. These can not easily be made to be on-board air, since you have to have the oil in the gas going through them, meaning your compressed air, would be full of oil, and need to be constantly replenished. Being a vein type pump, on a quieter engine (such as a gasser, our F-150 and E-150 both had this pump) you can hear the pump whine a bit while it is running.
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What you have is the Ford I believe made by Visteon A/C compressor they started using in the very early 80's and still use a variant of it to this day. My 03 Excursion and 00 P71 have this same style:
You must be registered for see images attach
The York is a piston type pump, just like your engine, there is an oil sump, a crank, connecting rod, piston and head. Instead of it running like an engine, it is driven and compresses with the same idea. Many have used a York A/C compressor for on-board air. There is a bit of modification most make, but it will compress air same as freon.
The Ford pumps is a rotary vein type pump. It is lubricated by the "oil" in the refrigerant. These can not easily be made to be on-board air, since you have to have the oil in the gas going through them, meaning your compressed air, would be full of oil, and need to be constantly replenished. Being a vein type pump, on a quieter engine (such as a gasser, our F-150 and E-150 both had this pump) you can hear the pump whine a bit while it is running.
You have an FS6
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ReManufactu...BLY-/301262670273?hash=item4624a789c1&vxp=mtr
Its what came factory on our trucks. I recomend that you flush everything except the compressor.Replace all the orings with green ones..Add 10oz of AC ester oil to the system wherever you can get it in. A few oz in the compressor,a few more in the dryer etc. Put in an Orange orifice tube, vacuum and fill with 44oz of r134a.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ReManufactu...BLY-/301262670273?hash=item4624a789c1&vxp=mtr
Its what came factory on our trucks. I recomend that you flush everything except the compressor.Replace all the orings with green ones..Add 10oz of AC ester oil to the system wherever you can get it in. A few oz in the compressor,a few more in the dryer etc. Put in an Orange orifice tube, vacuum and fill with 44oz of r134a.
ToughOldFord
The Cold Glow-Plug
Isn't 44 oz a bit much? I'll be doing the conversion tomorrow and I calculated it out to 37-40 oz of r134a. I plan on 37 oz of r134a and 9 oz of oil to start.
I used 120 psi of shop air and it held for over an hour. Pulled the evaporator out too and it was caked with gunk!!
I'm also opting for a red orifice tube, fwiw. Refrigerant, oil, flush, gauges, orifice tube, and vac pump came out to 180 at pep boys. Gonna snag the o-rings at Horrible Fright.
I used 120 psi of shop air and it held for over an hour. Pulled the evaporator out too and it was caked with gunk!!
I'm also opting for a red orifice tube, fwiw. Refrigerant, oil, flush, gauges, orifice tube, and vac pump came out to 180 at pep boys. Gonna snag the o-rings at Horrible Fright.
mu2bdriver
Full Access Member
Thanks, guys. Wow, those two compressors don't even look the same. That's the last time I take the word from any forum but this one!
HS108
Diesel Newb
What Forum was that? FTE lol
Success on my conversion!! Took about 40 ounces total on a 92 F250 (44oz R12 capacity)
Make sure you get 4x 116 o-rings for the aluminum blocks on the compressor, they don't come in the multipacks... Supercool #568-116-5 or Napa 407086. Reading through this thread it seems that a lot of folks missed those 4 o-rings.
Take the schrader valve out of your new accumulator/drier and put it in the high side line. Retrofit high side adapters usually rely on the existing valve, and our existing valve has buna seals (no bueno).
Also noted that our fans suck (well, not enough) at 1200 rpm. Not enough airflow over the condenser, had to put a shop fan in the grille for gauge readings. Dropped the high side pressure by 25 psi!! Also moved an aftermarket tranny cooler off to the side, maximizing airflow.
Shoutout to Napa for their Military Discount! $4.97 per can of R-134A!!
Make sure you get 4x 116 o-rings for the aluminum blocks on the compressor, they don't come in the multipacks... Supercool #568-116-5 or Napa 407086. Reading through this thread it seems that a lot of folks missed those 4 o-rings.
Take the schrader valve out of your new accumulator/drier and put it in the high side line. Retrofit high side adapters usually rely on the existing valve, and our existing valve has buna seals (no bueno).
Also noted that our fans suck (well, not enough) at 1200 rpm. Not enough airflow over the condenser, had to put a shop fan in the grille for gauge readings. Dropped the high side pressure by 25 psi!! Also moved an aftermarket tranny cooler off to the side, maximizing airflow.
Shoutout to Napa for their Military Discount! $4.97 per can of R-134A!!
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Curious, my 92 F250 was marked at 2 lbs 12 oz of R12, original ford sticker, thus I came out to 37-40 oz using the 10-15% reduction.
So we're on the same page, just a minor variance in the system capacities...
94 F350: 2 lb 1 oz R134A
92 F250: 2 lb 12 oz of R12 (both of mine match)
91 F350: no sticker
87 F250: 3 lb 4 oz of R12
Bottom line for everyone: check your system capacity!!
So we're on the same page, just a minor variance in the system capacities...
94 F350: 2 lb 1 oz R134A
92 F250: 2 lb 12 oz of R12 (both of mine match)
91 F350: no sticker
87 F250: 3 lb 4 oz of R12
Bottom line for everyone: check your system capacity!!
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Never should have started reading this thread, the gremlims or Murphy some how got to me. SIL A/C compressor bit the dust last week. Stupid a$$ kept reving it, called me, said a lot of smoke is coming out under the hood, never seen a serp belt burned up in so many places, finely just burned in half. It's on a 2002 Dodge 1500 Ram. No difference changing it than it takes on a Ford.
http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderD...&itemId=191366294081&ssPageName=STRK:MESO:VPS
Now for another $62 bucs, for misc. parts.
He just had a Dodge dealer put a new condenser on it three weeks ago, makes ya wonder. He's ashamed to say what that cost was.
http://vod.ebay.com/vod/FetchOrderD...&itemId=191366294081&ssPageName=STRK:MESO:VPS
Now for another $62 bucs, for misc. parts.
He just had a Dodge dealer put a new condenser on it three weeks ago, makes ya wonder. He's ashamed to say what that cost was.
mu2bdriver
Full Access Member
Success for me also! With a caveat...
Sucked the system out yesterday and let it sit a while. Held 30" all day. Serviced with 44oz and 10oz ester oil. Took it all and blew cold air out all day. Accum/dryer and compressor sweat a little. No ice buildup. Works great but...
Air only comes out of the defroster vents regardless of the position of the vent controls. I checked the vacuum lines near the passenger side and all appeared to be intact and fine. Brakes and cruise control are functional as normal. When I replaced the evaporator core I did have to remove the box that is on the side of the airbox. There could be a vacuum leak from there. The small vacuum lines that connect to the manifold mounted on the firewall looked good, the T looked good, and the small line which disappears into a loom that goes into the passenger side compartment looked good. Any ideas?
Sucked the system out yesterday and let it sit a while. Held 30" all day. Serviced with 44oz and 10oz ester oil. Took it all and blew cold air out all day. Accum/dryer and compressor sweat a little. No ice buildup. Works great but...
Air only comes out of the defroster vents regardless of the position of the vent controls. I checked the vacuum lines near the passenger side and all appeared to be intact and fine. Brakes and cruise control are functional as normal. When I replaced the evaporator core I did have to remove the box that is on the side of the airbox. There could be a vacuum leak from there. The small vacuum lines that connect to the manifold mounted on the firewall looked good, the T looked good, and the small line which disappears into a loom that goes into the passenger side compartment looked good. Any ideas?
That's the default Ford position for a loss of vacuum. I would check behind the HVAC selector switch, you can access all of the vac lines there.
Just stick a brake bleeder vac pump in there.
Measure for vacuum, then actuate all of the doors with the pump. It's one spot to check that will detemine which side of the system is goobered.
Just stick a brake bleeder vac pump in there.
Measure for vacuum, then actuate all of the doors with the pump. It's one spot to check that will detemine which side of the system is goobered.
mu2bdriver
Full Access Member
I first checked all of the small (5/32 I think) vacuum lines in the engine compartment.
The black ones: one from the vacuum reservoir to the T, the one from the T to the vacuum manifold on the engine compartment firewall, and the other side of the T which snakes into the loom into the cab. All three checked good. I think there was air leaking in around the vacuum reservoir and I re-sealed it.
The white one: from the blend door motor through the same loom at the other black one above. Visually checked good.
Passenger footwell area: The black, white, and blue lines all appeared in good condition.
Where the blue vacuum line attaches to the actuator which diverts airflow from the defroster to the instrument panel vents I can physically move the diaphragm to divert airflow from the defroster to the instrument panel vents and the vacuum will hold the airflow in that direction. Once I turn off the hvac the vacuum will release and the diaphragm will move to the other position (defrost).
I didn't yet check behind the selector switch. Could air getting into the vacuum reservoir have been my problem? It's unusual to me that I can manually divert the airflow and there is sufficient vacuum to hold it in that position but there isn't sufficient vacuum for it to move to that position on it's own.
The black ones: one from the vacuum reservoir to the T, the one from the T to the vacuum manifold on the engine compartment firewall, and the other side of the T which snakes into the loom into the cab. All three checked good. I think there was air leaking in around the vacuum reservoir and I re-sealed it.
The white one: from the blend door motor through the same loom at the other black one above. Visually checked good.
Passenger footwell area: The black, white, and blue lines all appeared in good condition.
Where the blue vacuum line attaches to the actuator which diverts airflow from the defroster to the instrument panel vents I can physically move the diaphragm to divert airflow from the defroster to the instrument panel vents and the vacuum will hold the airflow in that direction. Once I turn off the hvac the vacuum will release and the diaphragm will move to the other position (defrost).
I didn't yet check behind the selector switch. Could air getting into the vacuum reservoir have been my problem? It's unusual to me that I can manually divert the airflow and there is sufficient vacuum to hold it in that position but there isn't sufficient vacuum for it to move to that position on it's own.
