AC service possibile conversion

[Spun4Fun]

My Green machine needs an the AC serviced as i have no AC , Compressor clutch engage and tested fine , It's currently running the old System R12 . I am going to Pull Vacuum this weekend and service it to make sure no leaks . I have access to R12 my questions are :

1- Should i convert the system to R134 or Leave it alone ( As i did read some where that the older condenser might not handle it well )

2- The green machine is CC so it's a large area to cool . What orfus tube should i stick with ( the colored one or variable )

3- where is the orfus tube located



Thanks

 

[ToughOldFord]

Nothing wrong with conversion, all my vehicles are converted and work just fine.

However, R12 is the better freon so if you do have access to it and it won't break the bank just stick with it.

 

[icanfixall]

I feel if its working on R12 there is no logical reason to convert to R134. Now comes the kicker. You lost the R12 charge so you have a leak and that hurts the inviorment. Many times its the compressor seal but I have seen the line coupler o rings harden and leak too. Finding the leak can be difficult. If you replace all the line o rings you have eliminated any possible issues there. Then is the vacuum down fails it probably the pump seal. As for orfice tubes to use I suggest asking an ac repair shop. Find a store that does nothing but auto air repairs. Don't ask some kid at vatozone. Most if not all have no idea but the book tells them everything they need to know.

 

[ToughOldFord]

Well there is a logical reason(s) to convert Gary, R12 is not obtainable through normal channels and it is stupid expensive.
If you can overcome those obstacles though then stick with it.

 

[Spun4Fun]

How many O ring we talking about and where are they ... I agree 100% on loosing the charge due to a LEAK , Truck sat for 8 years. How to find out if the comoressor seal is the problem before dumping money on charging it.


If i would convert it to R134 what all i need beside the High and Low fitting's

 

[chris142]

Our condensers are very good. They work great on R134a. Mines a extended cab and it keeps me cool in Az and Palm springs in July and August. The tube is located in the evap inlet. I always change to a smaller Orange one when retrofitting a truck like ours. Seems to make them work much better.

 

[ironworker40]

I converted mine last year and used the same orfice tube that was in it. I changed lines, compressor,condenser,dryer. So the only old part thing left is evaporator. Flushed evaporator. Results is it works great running down the road but it get warmer at idle, not hot, but not as cold as when off idle. I don't know if a different orfice would solve that.
I would stick to r12 if you can. Pull line apart and look at the orfice and see if it has black gunk on it. If it does your compessor is shot. Lots of info on this on the web, search for "ford a/c black death"
On a side note if you have freon stored make sure the valve is capped. I have had freon stored at my hone since the mid 70's and never had one leak. Neither has anyone else I know of. Last year a got a new 30lbs can of 134 and two days ago I picked it up and it was empty. I'm not sure if a cap would of helped the valve was tight but it may have. A result of Chinese made cylinders would be my guess. So yesterday I got another new 30 lbs can. Funny story I also picked up cans of r22 and r410a for a friend and another friend called and his home unit **** the bed yesterday so we are replacing that this weekend along with the furnace so I have to go get another 410a for him. karma sucks.

 

[Spun4Fun]

can some one post a pic of all the AC component lay out Please

 

[theguruat12]

Mine was R134a when I got the truck, the compressor went a year or two later. When I replaced, I went back to factory R12, with a blue nonvariable orifice tube. The refrigerant is expensive, yes, but as stated, I replaced all o-rings, and now my truck is COLD. Like, meat-locker cold, after running the A/C for a while, even in 110 Tucson summers. Best A/C of any of our seven vehicles, with the exception of the weak blower motor. I do have a single cab, though.

JM2CW

 

[Spun4Fun]

Where is these O RINGS

 

[theguruat12]

In the connections on all of the hoses, etc.

 

[icanfixall]

O rings... There are 2 at the hose fitting behind the compressor. At each side of the evap condenser there is one. At the ofice tube there is one. At both sides of the dryer can there is one. So I'm counting 7 o rings. Be sure to buy the correct size and the types. 134 takes a different type than the R12 takes. As already posted. Contact a good auto ac repair shop or parts supplier to same. Goggle auto air repair shops. I have had great luck with a shop in AZ.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Icanfixall..thanks for the count , I will pro look for O ring AC kit

 

[Spun4Fun]

I have access to all the tools and My friend have the gauges so no garage for this guy ..Money is tight .

I am trying to prioritizes : Should i pull vacume 1st to check for leaks , Pull the Orfus Tube for inspection , or just open the system and replace all O rings, flush , etc

What will you do

 

[franklin2]

Harbor freight sells the green refrigeration o-rings. But I don't know why you are worried about the o-rings. What you need to do is inspect the system visually very carefully. Any oil with dirt stuck to it on the fittings is a sign of a leak. The most common place is the compressor seal. Look between the clutch and the compressor housing and see if it's oily or oil with dirt on it in that area. Anywhere it leaks refrigerant, it leaks a little bit of refrigerant oil and this is a way you can tell if it's leaking.

The good thing about the 134a is the price. I can get 12oz cans on sale at Big Lots for $7 a can. The conversion kit with everything you need is usually sold at Walmart or the car parts stores for $50-$60. It has the conversion fittings, and the r134a with the ester oil already in it. This is what you need to convert if you have a vacuum pump and can pump the system down.