'90 F350 Crewcab 4x4 "BFTD" Project..

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

How much Kreen did you order ? Very interested in hearing how well it works.

Just a qt for now. Apparently, its 3oz per qt of oil for the crank case.... with the extended filter, i'll be an ounce short... but oh well. I'll double check the bottle when I get it to be sure as from what I'm reading, this stuff is very potent and needs to be used exactly as directed.

If I see any improvement at all, I'll order more. I'm just trying to destick the rings a bit and get blowby down. Oil consumption is already down with just changing the CDR but blowby is still pretty high. I may also soak the pistons via glow plug holes using Marvels. I've heard good things about doing it that way.

I'm going to wait to add the Kreen until I can start driving it a bit... so I need to get my tires mounted and get plates for it along with getting some other bugs worked out. From everything I'm reading though, if my blowby is coked/sticking rings, it'll cure it in short order.

We'll see.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Got some goods in today...

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I'm hoping to swap out filter heads tonight and get my "Bleed pump" installed... If all goes well, it should start/run a lot better then it currently does.

I'm going to wait on adding the "Kreen" to the oil until I can actually take it for a drive.. it'll probably be a few weeks yet.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Made some progress tonight.

I pulled the filter head and support brace off of my spare engine and swapped them over with a new fuel filter. I then went under the truck and spliced in the new low pressure 12v lift pump (wired on a switch just for priming the system).

After getting the little pump primed, I instantly noticed a drip up by the mechanical lift pump and found a loose hose clamp. After tightening that up and purging the air at the schrader valve, all of the return lines filled as they should with no air bubbles forming in any of the clear lines.

I had the block heater plugged in... after a shot of ether and some cranking, it fired off (no glowplugs yet... still have to build a harness).

Anyways, I let it come up to temp so I could finally top off the cooling system... let it run for 30 minutes or so. @185 on the gauge, it is still a PITA to get started. No starting fluid, but 30 seconds of cranking while playing with the pedal. Return lines still appear to be full of fuel with no air forming.

Another issue is the smoke... this thing smokes like a train all the time. Its not coolant and not all oil... its grey and constant. None of the injector lines are getting hotter then the others and it looks as if a couple of the injectors have been replaced recently.

I'm curious if timing is off as I know the engine has been apart... just dont know how well the person who did the work knows the IDI... Not sure if they timed it right.

I wouldnt mind putting injectors in it.... but thats a bit out of reach yet. I have injectors and a pump on my spare engine with 130k on them... tempted to pull the injectors and swap them all out to see if it makes a difference...

The truck seems to run pretty good otherwise. The only other thing that I've noticed is an occasional lazy return to idle when blipping the throttle open. If I rev it hard from an idle and snap it back closed, sometimes its a bit lazy... not so much of a hang... but lazy if that makes sense.

 

[jhenegh]

If it's retarted it will smoke like crazy. Experienced this on my truck and a JOhn Deere 2020. My truck was originally at -3 or so when I replaced the pump. Eye-watering smokey mess for those few starts of getting it back together before I got my meter out. But it ran seemingly fine. Just ask @IDIoit . They'll run plenty well retarted

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Suck part is I dont have access to a meter at the moment and I hate to spend the money to rent one just to find out that the pump is junk.

I'm strongly considering swapping injectors from my other engine... I may also bump the timing and see what it does. I do believe it has an injector issue as while running tonight, it would randomly knock HARD and then quiet down..

I'm going to call the local injection shop tomorrow to see if they have some crush washers on the shelf and swap injectors... See how it runs then bump the timing a few degrees and see what happens.

I will also say that I'm certain this pump has been turned up quite a bit. I took it for a drive down the block the other day after letting it warm up and rolling into the throttle would black out the road behind me... (not overly concerned as I've got an 093 kit waiting to be installed once I get the bugs worked out)... which should clean it up and keep the EGTs in check.

-Chris

-EDIT-
I forgot that a set of crush washers came with my return line kit... so weather permitting, I'm going to swap injectors tomorrow and see how much of a difference, if any, it makes. It it makes a big difference, I will probably pony up for a set of injectors. I doubt I'll have time to bump the timing up tomorrow as well... that might have to wait a couple days.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Ok... was able to get the driver side bank of injectors changed tonight which did smooth out the idle a bit and lessened the knock I was hearing. It also helped the haze a bit... but its still pretty bad...

http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v75/AcIdBuRn52383/F350%20Crew/VID_20160126_175904096_zpsxxxgejpv.mp4

This is @ 185 on the temp gauge. I finally climbed up on the bed and the exhaust haze is definitely raw fuel. I wont have time to change the passenger side bank until thursday... but I'm still leaning heavily towards the haze being more timing related then anything.

I will most likely be getting new injectors in the near future and will plan on a pump as well (which will have to wait a while until the funds are there...) Injectors are in the budget. The ones I'm swapping in have ~135k on them... I'm sure they aren't perfect.. but they look to be in better shape then the ones I'm pulling.

The 4 I pulled were soaked in diesel and pretty nasty looking. 2 looked as if the bodies had been wire wheeled at some point (perhaps reman?)...

Anyways, I'll take some pictures of the ones I pulled... but from the video, am I barking up the wrong tree with thinking timing related?

Here is another video... however I turned the camera while taking it not thinking so be prepared to turn your head... lol
http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v75/AcIdBuRn52383/F350%20Crew/VID_20160126_180042421_zpsvmiooa4z.mp4

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Here are the injectors I removed...

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Not sure what to make of it... but the bottom "nut" on the injectors are different. 2 are 12pt... 2 are 6pt.

Anyways... these are what I put in... They had a little soot on them that I knocked off with a brass brush.

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[bbjordan]

6.9?

The engine could very well be a 6.9. Putting in a 6.9 after the original 7.3 failed was fairly common. Check the serial number found at the front of the block on the drivers side by the IP housing. Example pic below.

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You can't see the 6, but you can see the .9DU2Uetc.

The old injectors look like a mix. The older BBs had 6 point nuts, the newer D, E, and G code injectors have 12 point nuts IIRC.
You can check to see what they are on the 1" nut. There should be stamped into the nut on one of the flats. See example pic below.

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On the right side of this injector you can see BB stamped in it.

Head gasket replacement is very common with the 6.9s.

Regardless, you are on the right track by replacing the injectors. Next, get it timed up. It seems retarded to me. Retarded timing will make the exhaust grey. So will over fuelling... I read that over fuelling by 1% will reduce efficiency by 10%! If it is a 6.9 with a 7.3 IP on it, that might do it. If you can read the numbers on the tag on the passenger side of the IP, we can probably tell what the IP was off of.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

I'm pretty sure it has larger head bolts but I'll have to check. Its been pretty low on the priority list to find out whats what. I may go out in a bit and see if the 7/16 12pt will fit the head bolts...

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Just checked... head bolts are larger then 7/16 12pt... I'd say 9/16.

7.3 it is.

 

[jhenegh]

Anyways, I'll take some pictures of the ones I pulled... but from the video, am I barking up the wrong tree with thinking timing related?

No I don't think so. That and maybe just a too much turned up pump.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Ok...

Injectors changed... timing bumped a little more then a dimes thickness (full centerpunch dot basically) and it finally has a bit of rattle.

With the injectors all changed and the lines bled, it ran quite a bit smoother. Brought it up to temp then shut it down and bumped the timing up. No real change in haze... still a PITA to start... but throttle response is crisp and it sounds healthy... not lazy.

Anyways, climbed under the truck after shutting off the electric lift pump (with the truck still running), and the clear lines I used to hook up the pump started rolling bubbles through them from the tank towards the engine. The supply line has been spliced multiple times and doesnt appear to be in good shape at all... so I'm going to pick-up a 25' roll of 3/8" steal line tomorrow after work and run a new line from the tank to the mechanical lift pump. For the time being, I'm going to delete the tank switch valve (rear tank is unhooked as it is) and run new from the sending unit forward.

Besides the shower head, is there any other potential air leak on the pick-up/sending unit? If no, I'm going to wait to pull the sending unit until I get the parts to repair the gauge sender.

As it sits, at operating temp, I can shut the truck off... hit the starter immediately after and it acts as if its not getting fuel. I can then crank on it off and on for approximately 3 minutes or so while playing with the throttle and it'll finally cough and sputter its way to life. Thats after changing the injectors (no change in how it starts), and bumping timing up (also no change in how it starts).

Could all of this BS just be supply line air intrusion?

On a side note, I'm pretty certain the IP, lines, and IP mount/gear cover were all from a 6.9. When I pulled the passenger side injectors tonight, I found there was no timing adapter on the #1 injector and the line didnt appear to be bent to compensate. Also, it has a 6.9 style oil fill (which I actually like a bit better). The pump itself is missing the data tag and it has certainly been turned up (I'd venture to say maxed out) as any hard throttle or any load while driving just rolls black out of the stack. The turbo kit will clean it up.. but if it being turned up could be causing issues, I'll tear into it and back it off a bit.

 

[biggin92]

If it wont fire back up when hot after shutting it off then that pump is worn out. It needs to be replaced . The tolerances have gotten to large and it can't build enough pressure to refire. I bet if you shut it off when it's hot and dump a bag of ice on the injector pump it'll fire right up. Been through this same scenario a few times . And recently with my 90 i just aquired.

 

[riotwarrior]

Olives????

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

If it wont fire back up when hot after shutting it off then that pump is worn out. It needs to be replaced . The tolerances have gotten to large and it can't build enough pressure to refire. I bet if you shut it off when it's hot and dump a bag of ice on the injector pump it'll fire right up. Been through this same scenario a few times . And recently with my 90 i just aquired.

It starts the same cold though... Cold.. Hot... doesnt matter. Have to crank the **** out of it to get it to fire off. When stone cold, a sniff of ether and it'll start hitting on 1... then a couple more... then a few more.. then it'll finally spin over fast enough to catch and run. (Keep in mind, no glow plugs or cold start advance/high idle). After running for any length of time, shut it off. Try to restart immediately and acts just as if it were stone cold again.

Just for giggles I picked up a new starter today as this one has been hot a few times and was used when I put it on to replace the smoked one that was on the truck.

Olives have been replaced... lift pump, different low mileage filter head, and lower mileage injectors.

When it does start, it runs good and is peppy. Throttle response is good.

I'm going to change a few things in the morning and see what happens. If it doesn't improve, I'll give it a cold water bath and see if it starts any easier. If it does, I'll pull the pump off of my other engine and swap it over and hopefully I can get it timed close enough to run. I'm getting tired of chasing my tail on this one...

I know for a fact that its sucking air at the supply line pre lift pump. I'm going to disconnect the tank and hook the lift pump and return directly to a small jug of fuel and see what happens... but first, new starter.

I had done some reading where a guy claimed his sounded like it was turning over at proper speed but it was a PITA to get started... when he replaced the starter, the problems went away. Worth a shot anyways.