AcIdBuRn02ZTS
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That might do the trick.
'90 F350 Crewcab 4x4 "BFTD" Project..
- Thread starter AcIdBuRn02ZTS
- Start date
Electric pump it and put an oil drain fitting in the fuel pump blockoff plate
That's my plan. We will see. I might end up going through a valve cover. Depends on where things end up.
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Box of goodies showed up today...
Came home from work while it was warm and filled the cooling system 50/50 with water and vinegar.. Let it run for 45 minutes and now I'm debating on leaving it overnight or draining it before I call it a night.
The cooling system is NASTY with sediment.
Also, while hooking up my new cables tonight, my buddy noticed that the oil filter was covered in orange over spray... Meaning the oil hasnt been chaged since the engine was out of the truck.
With that being said, gonna change it before running it anymore (hopefully tomorrow if weather permits)
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Came home from work while it was warm and filled the cooling system 50/50 with water and vinegar.. Let it run for 45 minutes and now I'm debating on leaving it overnight or draining it before I call it a night.
The cooling system is NASTY with sediment.
Also, while hooking up my new cables tonight, my buddy noticed that the oil filter was covered in orange over spray... Meaning the oil hasnt been chaged since the engine was out of the truck.
With that being said, gonna change it before running it anymore (hopefully tomorrow if weather permits)
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Also... may have just scored a partial 093 kit. Its missing the downpipe (I'll order the banks bolt on), and a crossover pipe (which I can fab up without much hassle) but from what I've seen, looks to be in good shape.
I'll know more next week when it shows up... Just gotta get the truck ready for it. Lol
I'll know more next week when it shows up... Just gotta get the truck ready for it. Lol
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
The heads on the bolts look more like 9/16 12pt. I need to put a socket on them to be sure but the certainly look bigger then 7/16. I keep forgetting to check however I did see another 7.3 with a bolt on oil fill today.
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
To be honest, I'd rather have the oil fill pointing straight up on my 7.3 like the 6.9
Would be easier for me to pour oil, but that's just me and I've got too much to do to swap covers.
Would be easier for me to pour oil, but that's just me and I've got too much to do to swap covers.
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Rest of my goods showed up this afternoon... New 1k watt block beater, return kit (thanks Typ4), and I picked up heater hose, fuel hose, 12 gallons of distilled water, and 3 gallons of oil.
I back flushed the cooling system tonight with one of those hose kits for 15 minutes and got most of the sediment out... Drained everything back down. Will fill with distilled water and run for a bit in the morning... Then drain it all and start replacing parts.
More to come
I back flushed the cooling system tonight with one of those hose kits for 15 minutes and got most of the sediment out... Drained everything back down. Will fill with distilled water and run for a bit in the morning... Then drain it all and start replacing parts.
More to come
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
Well.. the wife decided to call it a night early... so I decided to head out to the garage for a few hours and see how far I could get since its going to be cold and rainy all weekend.
Pulled the alternator and vac. pump... then pulled the lift pump (much easier/faster with all that out of the way..)
Odd wear...
New carter pump installed with new soft line... t-stat housing pulled and cleaned up..
Motorcraft t-stat... housing cleaned...
Installed the new upper hose with new clamps... then pulled the CDR and got ready to swap it only to find that the grommet setup was different. The one on the truck now uses a metal stand pipe between the valve and the valley pan. The one from my other engine was different and it was too dark to go see if the other style grommet was in tact and useable. The previous owner had just wrapped a bunch of friction tape around the nipple which is probably the cause for the cup+ of oil pooling under the CDR on the valley pan.
Anyways... decided to call it a night. In the morning, I'll replace the valve cover gaskets, hopefully get the CDR sorted, install the new block heater and lower rad. hose... new heater hoses... Then fill the cooling system with distilled water and run it once more... check for leaks then drain and fill with 50/50 Zerex ELC.
Then onto the fuel system. I think I found my air intrusion as when I moved the filter head out of the way, the hard lines were hissing.. most likely just bad olives. If all goes well, I'll get the return system done tomorrow too and then we'll see where its at with oil consumption.
Pulled the alternator and vac. pump... then pulled the lift pump (much easier/faster with all that out of the way..)
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Odd wear...
You must be registered for see images attach
New carter pump installed with new soft line... t-stat housing pulled and cleaned up..
You must be registered for see images attach
Motorcraft t-stat... housing cleaned...
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Installed the new upper hose with new clamps... then pulled the CDR and got ready to swap it only to find that the grommet setup was different. The one on the truck now uses a metal stand pipe between the valve and the valley pan. The one from my other engine was different and it was too dark to go see if the other style grommet was in tact and useable. The previous owner had just wrapped a bunch of friction tape around the nipple which is probably the cause for the cup+ of oil pooling under the CDR on the valley pan.
Anyways... decided to call it a night. In the morning, I'll replace the valve cover gaskets, hopefully get the CDR sorted, install the new block heater and lower rad. hose... new heater hoses... Then fill the cooling system with distilled water and run it once more... check for leaks then drain and fill with 50/50 Zerex ELC.
Then onto the fuel system. I think I found my air intrusion as when I moved the filter head out of the way, the hard lines were hissing.. most likely just bad olives. If all goes well, I'll get the return system done tomorrow too and then we'll see where its at with oil consumption.
Decent progress
Was thinkin it might be med duty 7.3 ....dunno
Was thinkin it might be med duty 7.3 ....dunno
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
More progress...
All this junk out of the way...
After damn near destroying the valve cover due to it being glued down with RTV, I found a lot less sludge then I figured there would be...
Pulled the old block heater to install the replacement. Glad I decided to do it...
Drained the slimy tar like "oil" out of the pan.. flushed the pan with a bit of fresh oil... PS filter installed.
Drained the distilled water out of the system and refilled with 50/50 Zerex ELC and distilled water.
Return lines done... Also swapped the air cleaner and now have the seal under the bolt (thanks for the heads up!)
Fired it up and let it get to temp which is a good bit lower then it was before. Before flushing the cooling system, it would come up to 200-205 idling in the driveway. Now after an hour of running, its staying around 185. Oil pressure is running 15-18psi @750 rpm.
After changing the CDR and grommet, oil consumption seams to be down a good bit. Previously, after running for an hour, it was down almost 2qts. Now, after 1.5hrs, it was only down 1/8" on the stick. Blowby seams to be down a bit too.
Now, its still getting a bit of air in the fuel system. I installed clear line from the filter head to the return cap, from the rear most driverside cap to the "T", and from the pump to the return cap. While running, the only line getting air in it was the one from the filter head to the return cap. If I pinched the line, it would quickly fill with fuel but as soon as I released it, it would get air in it... I'm thinking its sucking air pre lift pump... I've got some digging to do.
Anyways, I ordered some Kreen from Kano Labs (same company that makes Kroil which is the best penetrating oil I've ever used). Its an aggressive solvent that can be used in the crank case, fuel system, transmission, etc... Its designed to dissolve varnish and sludge, un-stick rings/lifters, etc. Its quite a bit cheaper then Auto-RX and from what I've seen and read over on bobistheoilguy, it works quite a bit better. At this point, the engine is using oil and has a good bit of blowby... so I cant see it hurting. I'll update on how that goes once it gets here and I get some miles on it. I may also do a MMO piston soak when I replace the glow plugs.
I'll get my tires mounted in a couple days when the weather is back out of the single digits... Got some more wiring to work out... but its getting there.
More to come soon.
All this junk out of the way...
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After damn near destroying the valve cover due to it being glued down with RTV, I found a lot less sludge then I figured there would be...
You must be registered for see images attach
Pulled the old block heater to install the replacement. Glad I decided to do it...
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Drained the slimy tar like "oil" out of the pan.. flushed the pan with a bit of fresh oil... PS filter installed.
You must be registered for see images attach
Drained the distilled water out of the system and refilled with 50/50 Zerex ELC and distilled water.
You must be registered for see images attach
Return lines done... Also swapped the air cleaner and now have the seal under the bolt (thanks for the heads up!)
You must be registered for see images attach
Fired it up and let it get to temp which is a good bit lower then it was before. Before flushing the cooling system, it would come up to 200-205 idling in the driveway. Now after an hour of running, its staying around 185. Oil pressure is running 15-18psi @750 rpm.
After changing the CDR and grommet, oil consumption seams to be down a good bit. Previously, after running for an hour, it was down almost 2qts. Now, after 1.5hrs, it was only down 1/8" on the stick. Blowby seams to be down a bit too.
Now, its still getting a bit of air in the fuel system. I installed clear line from the filter head to the return cap, from the rear most driverside cap to the "T", and from the pump to the return cap. While running, the only line getting air in it was the one from the filter head to the return cap. If I pinched the line, it would quickly fill with fuel but as soon as I released it, it would get air in it... I'm thinking its sucking air pre lift pump... I've got some digging to do.
Anyways, I ordered some Kreen from Kano Labs (same company that makes Kroil which is the best penetrating oil I've ever used). Its an aggressive solvent that can be used in the crank case, fuel system, transmission, etc... Its designed to dissolve varnish and sludge, un-stick rings/lifters, etc. Its quite a bit cheaper then Auto-RX and from what I've seen and read over on bobistheoilguy, it works quite a bit better. At this point, the engine is using oil and has a good bit of blowby... so I cant see it hurting. I'll update on how that goes once it gets here and I get some miles on it. I may also do a MMO piston soak when I replace the glow plugs.
I'll get my tires mounted in a couple days when the weather is back out of the single digits... Got some more wiring to work out... but its getting there.
More to come soon.
Last edited:
jwsfarrier
Full Access Member
Thanks for all the great info, inspite of all this being a huge pain in the a$$, its threads like this that provide invaluable information for people like myself who are getting ready to drop in a fresh re-build. You hope you did your home work,but you never know what going to show up once things are all together . Cheers everybody!
AcIdBuRn02ZTS
Full Access Member
I'm pretty certain this engine suffered a blown headgasket recently which is probably why the heads were clean.
Anyways, ordered low pressure fuel pump...
Was looking around and found that rockauto sells an AutoBest 12D (same pump mr gasket uses) diesel pump for $23. 3/8" inlet and outlets... 35gph... max output pressure of 7psi and is free flow rated.
I am planning on mounting it on the frame close to the front tank and wiring it to a switch in cab to use solely for bleeding the fuel system after changing filters, etc. I plan to run it in series with the stock (new carter) lift pump. The 5-7psi the pump can put out shouldn't effect the diaphragm in the stock pump and being free flow rated, the stock pump should be able to pull fuel through it when its off. I'll plumb it in before the tank selector which will allow me to isolate the pump from any alternative fuels I would run in the other tank.
I also picked up some clear tubing today to replace a few short pieces of rubber that are in the main fuel line under the truck... that way I can see where my air intrusion is coming from.
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homelessduck
Full Access Member
How much Kreen did you order ? Very interested in hearing how well it works.
