7.3 Removal and Installation

[Tyee II]

I am about to change out a 7.3in a 1992 F 350 with manual ZF5 transmission. I have read several threads on this site and have a few questions regarding this process.
Engine lifting ? Is lifting from the 2 original eyes that are bolted onto the intake pan bolts adequate ?

Unbolting clutch and leaving on input shaft ? I have read several times on this site that this is a workable situation. Can the transmission be left in place ? The clearance problem looks to be front of oil pan into crossmember as engine comes forward, will this clear leaving the clutch on the shaft ?

I have overhead trolley and chainfall with lots of headroom, so I will have very good control of the engine. My preference is to do minimal moving of the transmission /transfer case. With drive lines removed it appears the slots in the transmission mount will allow about 3/4 inch movement forward and backwards ?

Radiator is out and the components on the front of the engine are removed so I have decent working space in the engine compartment.

Any other advice is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[IDIoit]

i would chain the engine with 4 points.
it can be done with the 2, but once you get it lifted up, it will want to twist on you in the engine bay.
i use a load leveler, then you can adjust the angle of the engine, and control it any way you want.
not a problem when you pull it, but it makes it real easy for install

in reguards to the clutch, im sure somewhere, someone has gotten the process down without removing the trans.
i have found tha trying to install a engine with a manual trans in place is a complete PITA. and you have the chance of damaging the pressure plate and clutch disc.
i do not remove my engines without removing the transmission first.
they are heavy, but its alot easier than trying to install the engine to the trans.
i take the transfer case off.
and you will have a hell of a time unbolting the clutch with the trans in place.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Where do you bolt your load leveler?

 

[TahoeTom]

+2 on removing trans and transfer case. I removed my engine leaving the T19 trans in place, but once out the transfer case rotated the trans, so there was no way it was going back in without removing the trans and tc. Remove starter and oil filter to help clear front crossmember. With the transfer case off you can pull the transmission back to clear without lowering it to the ground, but the transmission crossmember has to be swung out of the way. The bolts securing the trans crossmember are a pita, 15 and 18mm if I recall.

 

[IDIoit]

with having several engines, i have 4 of the stock lift points attached to each of the corner intake runners ontop of the manifold.
i have those steel clips that clip right on

x2 on the removal of the starter and the oil filter.

 

[hesutton]

I like to pull the front clip off the truck too. I don't like lifting that 900 lb IDI over the top of the rad support, grill, and all that.

Absolutely pull the trans. You'll waste more time fighting the 7.3 in and out of the truck with the trans in place (and like stated above... likely damage your clutch componets). It's doesn't take long to drop the trans.

Make sure your stand is rated for an engine this heavy too. 1000lb stand isn't adequate.

Heath

 

[catbird7]

I removed the rad support and would do it again if / when removal is necessary. Pulled both engine and trans at the same time. Removed transfer case first.

 

[catbird7]

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[junk]

I've always gone up and over the radiator support. You do need a good puller to get that much weight that high though. I also never do anything to the transmission, but unbolt it from the engine. I do use a jack to adjust it's height, but I don't move it otherwise. Getting the clutch and input shaft lined up on install so you don't mess up the pressure plate takes a little bit of finesse.

Lots of ways to skin a cat.

 

[icanfixall]

Being sure the hoist will handle the weight of th lift is most important. Next is the stand you place the engine on. I used the 2000 lbs stand and it was barely enough to hold the engine. Going heavy for the stand will help you. Not hurt you in the long run. the harbor freight small 3 leg stands will fold up on you. My stand has several more metal wheels that are needed. Two of them do nothing when the stand is working. But fold up the front legs and the stand rolls on the spare 2 wheels. This stand rides on 4 wheels when working too. Towcat has an actual factory oem stand with a gear box to rotate the engine. It is a beast but it sure works well. Its design is to make the engines bolt up by the bell housing flange or a side motor mount and be stable. Like I said. They are a beast and take up plenty of floor space but who cares when you have the best money can buy. Course Towcat paid a few bucks for this in his auction shopping...