7.3 idi charging 18v at idle

IDI_Journeyman

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Hello again my fellow indirect injection enthusiasts! I have a 1985 F250 4x4 with a 7.3 ATS turbo/zf5. Been having charging issues with this truck since I got it back in march of last year. Put a reman alternator on her and a voltage regulator and now it's charging at 18v at idle.....it also has a parasitic draw somewhere in the harness, haven't found it yet. The last owner used the original 6.9 harness on the 7.3 so there's splices all over the engine. Would it be possible I got a bad voltage regulator? I hear some new parts can be bad right out of the box.
 

Thewespaul

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Bad reg if those are new batteries, worn out batteries can cause a similar issue as they resist taking a charge but yours look new in that pic
 

IDI_Journeyman

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I bought the batteries from a ford dealer in April. They are still under warranty. I had them tested at the auto parts store and the guy said one is bad and one is still good. But when I did a load test at my house they both tested good... I'd hate to take the batteries back to get a new pair at ford and they go to **** just as fast from this parasitic draw the truck has. Might be what I have to do eventually though.
 

Thewespaul

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Don’t trust part store battery testers, they are trying to sell you new batteries. I would suspect the alt and reg before the batteries
 

IDI_Journeyman

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Alright, would it be best if I bought a Factory motorcraft regulator and alternator?
If so, what are the part numbers
 

IDI_Journeyman

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Just drove the truck around town and checked the voltage again when I got home, it's bouncing from .6V to 13v, then up to 17v again In a matter of seconds. Going up and down like that over and over again
 

Thewespaul

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Ive had issues with all brands, save your money and just exchange it at the parts store that you got it from.
 

franklin2

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I would do some checking and troubleshooting. Sounds like the alternator may be charging wide open, the only thing holding the voltage down to a reasonable level are the batteries. If you run it like this very much, you may have over heating wiring or over heating batteries as a result.

1st check the "A" terminal on the regulator. It should have a yellow wire going to it, and it's pretty short, should be running to a spot were it can get battery + voltage. The "A" terminal is where the regulator samples the system voltage, so it can give the right charging info to the alternator. If this wire has a poor connection or not connected at all, the regulator thinks the system voltage is low, and will throw the alternator wide open to try and bring the voltage up.

Check the "F" wire on the regulator. This wire is how the regulator controls the alternator output. This goes directly to the field of the alternator. More voltage on this wire means more charging from the alternator. Make sure it goes to the proper terminal of the alternator. Sometimes it's wrapped in the output wire from the alternator, which is hooked directly to the battery +. If one of these wires gets hot, it can melt the two together, putting a full 12v on the "F" wire. This would throw the alternator to wide open.

Make sure you never accidentally short the "F" wire to ground, it is a sure way to burn the regulator out.

If you are getting 18v at idle, your alternator is definitely good. You just have a control problem with it.
 

IDI_Journeyman

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Thank you franklin2 and Thewespaul! I will poke around with my DMM tonight on those wires and see if I can find the problem, hopefully it's the regulator
 

laserjock

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Sounds like either the regulator or a connection. Make sure the regulator has a good ground.
 

79jasper

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On my PSD last year I had the battery light come on, output measured at the alternator bounced all over.
Went to advanced auto and got a "new" alt but the pulley was wrong. No big deal, I'll swap it. Well couldn't do that because the cases were different. The pulley would be rubbing. Also when I took the old one off, the ring terminal snapped off the wire.
Go in to trusty ole AutoZone they offer to go ahead and test mine, say it tested bad. But.... I also never tightened the pulley back up. It was finger tight.
AutoZone ALT still working fine.
Maybe the old one was bad, maybe it was the connection. Lol don't know, but I still have a newer ALT, so that's good.
The old ALT was a optima brand orielly reman.
So while new parts can be bad, I would check all connections.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
 

frankenwrench

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Had same issue wen I put a new regulator on mine. Turns out it was the little black wire comming from starting solenoid to the regulator.
 

pelky350

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My regulators plug was damaged and it caused similar issues, look at the inside of the plug on your harness check for corroded, broken or loose feeling connectors inside of it. Changing out that plug fixed my issues. After I changed regulator and alternator that was my charging problem of high and low charging voltage
 
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